Supgee

Hey everyone, its crazy to say that I've owned this car for over 1 year now, I picked it up back in January 2013. Whoever owned it before me seriously neglected this car, and pretty much everything that could be wrong with a w203 body was wrong with this car.


All problems aside, I truly enjoy love driving this car. It's plenty fast, and looks real good. I work at a Mercedes dealership so I get to drive all the new models, and I really do love my C32. There are lots of features I wish my car had (like parktronic for example).


I just wanted to collaborate and post a list of things I've done to this car since I've had it, the car as it sits only has 85,700 miles on it: (I can't remember everything, all of it was done by myself)

- resonator removal (more sound)
- intercooler pump (stopped working)
- 12 spark plugs (were 10 years old, and rusty)
- 12 ignition wires (figured it was good to change them)
- genuine Mercedes alternator (left me stranded)
- genuine Mercedes battery (unsure of the other history of the battery)
- valve cover gaskets (L & R) (leaks)
- re-sealed the breather covers (leaks)
- air filters (dirty)
- fuel filter (dirty)
- 2-3 wheel alignments (always out slightly, lots of potholes where I live)
- coolant flush (new blue Mercedes coolant)
- brake fluid flush (Mercedes fluid)
- power steering fluid flush (new green Mercedes p/s fluid)
- transmission service (maintenance)
- transmission adapter plug (leaking)
- many bulbs (burnt out)
- headlight control module (passenger xenon was inop)
- harmonic balancer pulley (wobbling)
- multiple engine oil changes (tried Liqui Moly 5w40, was good.. went back to Mobil 1 0w40)
- new rear tires (Contintenal ContiSport)
- front brake pads + wear sensor (rotors measured 30mm, minimum spec is 28. OEM pads from dealer)
- replacement of o ring seal between the steering gear pump/reservoir. (dealer gaskets)
- replaced o ring at the oil filter housing (dealer gaskets)
- differential oil change (75w90 Mobil1)
- replaced oil cooler internal seals x2 (dealer gaskets)


I am sure there is more, I just can't think of it right now.. Some things next on the todo list are:
- front struts (leaking)
- rear shocks (not leaking, but I want to change them anyway)
- thrust arm bushings (worn)
- another wheel alignment (after strut change)
- supercharger pulley bearing (noisy)
- new serpentine belt (why not)
- change supercharger oil (due)


This car is definitely a work in progress, but I love it.

saer1one

Looks almost identical to my list.. I have 69k on my 2002 and yes they are very fun to drive..! Getting tired of the 19" wheels so I will be replacing them with 18" for more comfort.. Also will be getting rid of my Rieger bumper as it sits lower than stock and very easy to forget when parking until it his the parking barrier..

Supgee

I hear ya.. I'm on the fence about buying bilstein performance struts and dropping in a set of Eibach lowering springs or if I should just replace the oem struts/shocks... hmmm what to do...

Supgee

A little update to my list.
I just changed the front brake pads and wear sensor, and did not change the discs. The discs were still okay, no pulsation and measured 30mm and the minimum spec is 28. I used OEM Mercedes pads from the dealer.
I also added to my todo list the bushings for the control arms and thrust arms, which I will do when I change the struts and shocks before the alignment!

Supgee

Just updating the list.

Today I accomplished all diy:

- replacement of o ring seal between the steering gear pump/reservoir. (dealer gaskets)
- replaced o ring at the oil filter housing (dealer gaskets)
- differential oil change (75w90 Mobil1)
- replaced oil cooler internal seals x2 (dealer gaskets)

slowly coming along!

C230 Mulac

Looks like quite the list. I've got a similarly long one for my C55, lol

That differential oil change is coming up on my list soon, as well as shopping around for suspension options. Don't think I'll be doing the suspension by the end of this driving season but will definitely be done by next year!

Supgee

I work for a Mercedes Benz dealership, so my C32 gets all the love and attention she needs... not to mention free labor and access to WIS...

Next things for my C32 are some suspension and cosmetic upgrades.
I bought the trunk spoiler that the c63's all have, going to have that installed. As well as a real carbon fiber rear diffuser as well as real carbon fiber mirror housings.

Mulac: the differential if I recall correctly held just under 2 liters of fluid.
crack the fill plug loose first, before the drain plug... i've seen guys drain a diff and for the life of them can't get the fill plug open...

C230 Mulac

Thanks for the pointers

I've seen a couple posts about cracking the fill plug first. I wonder why it makes it that much more difficult?

I've also read some people say 1.5 liters and not 2, but maybe I'll just look at my manual and see what it says to double check.

Capn

One thing you've overlooked was checking the supercharger oil, the bottle is like $60 but its cheapest insurance.

Lenin

+1. You can't really check the supercharger oil. But if you decide to replace it (a good thing), just buy a can and replace it.

Supgee

Thanks for your concerns, now that you mention it I didn't think changing the oil was something I should do. (Mercedes doesn't have an interval for this, and I asked my shop foreman and he said don't waste my time) but since everyone here does it with good results I think I will add it to my list.

Capn

There are two way scenarios that I know of. The supercharger will either have

1) your oil will be black meaning it needs to be replaced (new oil is yellow).

2) you will have no oil or very low oil (meaning it can damage you S/C internals).

I got lucky at 115K with a full oil load but black dirty oil, now I have fresh oil and engagement/power delivery is much improved.

Supgee

Thanks, I'll see if the dealer I work for stocks this jet oil and I will change it this week.

Supgee

I would like to bump this thread because I have recently resumed driving my C32 (it was parked for almost 1.5 years) (our winter is very long, summer is very short.. so can only drive the car 4 months of the year and ended up buying an ML and putting this to the side) Looking at the mileage, I've owned this car just shy of 3 years and in total have put only 17,000kms(10500miles) on it. Kind of a shame.

Out of hibernation, I have recently replaced the engine oil and filter with Mobil1 0W40 and flushed the brake fluid. I found that I had an intermittent problem with the vehicle going into limp mode when I pressed the accelerator more than 50%.. was very strange. Hooked it up to star diagnosis, had no fault codes. Found the throttle valve angle to be acting weird. I checked the TB, cleaned it.. couldn't find any issue. Cleared everything tried again, limp mode.. ok.. so I unplugged the pedal.. plugged it back in.. and voila problem solved.. or so I thought... A week or so goes by and I start geting intermittent limp home mode again. I replaced the accelerator pedal yesterday, and so far it seems ok. I also went to a friends place, and we removed the secondary catalytic converters and welded in some straight pipes. Cool.

Added to the list, since I can no longer edit the main post.
- oil change
- brake fluid flush
- accelerator pedal was changed with a brand new unit.
- secondary catalytic converters have been removed.
- A/C recharge (08/07/2015)

The very next thing to do is service the supercharger and replace the oil inside, as well as replace the two front tires and get my drivers front wheel straightened (got bent slightly from a pot hole )

Kostas20

what do you mean by limp mode? i notice a similar situation when i am driving and give it more than 50% it seems like it almost bogs down. Although, when i control what gear I am in there is no issue. I always assumed it was due to the auto transmission not gearing down when i give it some gas.

Dollos

I have this issue right now. where a standing c220 cdi (standing for 6 months) when you put more than 50% throttle shows EPC EL power control malfunction and on star shows a accelerator pedal low voltage fault.
I think the pedals dont like to stand for too long...

Supgee

Yes, it appears so. The potentiometers inside the pedal are sensitive. Replace the pedal, and everything will be fine.