C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Advice Please

Old 04-09-2014, 12:02 PM
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2006 C55 AMG
Advice Please

I am currently facing an issue in regards to my 2006 C55 AMG. It has 96K miles on it.

Incident #1: After driving for about 20 minutes in the morning and stopping for another 30 minutes I returned to my car. The car would not start, and instead would just attempt to turn over with no success. After calling a friend for a ride and waiting 15 minutes, I gave it one last try and it started. CEL came on but it was drive able. As I pulled up to a stop light, it died again, but was able to re-start after one attempt.

Incident #2: Upon driving for 30 minutes on the high way, I pulled off into a parking lot. As I was turning right into the lot, the car died and I was left to control it without power brakes or steering. Upon attempts to start over 20 times, it wouldn't. Just to double check, we attempted jumper cables, but didn't help because the battery was not dead. Got assistance to push it into a spot and went to get a ride. Came back 1 hour later to get stuff out of the car, and it started again with the CEL light on. Drove it for 15 minutes, and again it died at a stop light. After 4-5 attempts it started again and I was able to get it into my driveway.

After searching this site for help, it appears the two common answers are the CPS or bad fuel pumps. However, I don't recall smelling gas inside the car which would indicate a leaking fuel pump.

So my question for advice is what do you think the problem is? In addition, I have some mechanical experience, but I am no expert, is this something I could fix on my own, and if not, how much would I expect to spend? I'm guessing if I am advised to take it to a shop, I should avoid the dealership as well?

On a possibly unrelated issue, I think I have a problem with my battery because the car losses charge if left out in the cold, or for 3+ days. But I don't know if that is related to this.

Any help is appreciated, and feel free to send me to other threads if this is a common issue that is discussed.

Thank you.
Old 04-09-2014, 12:21 PM
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1999 E320 4matic Wagon, 2005 C55 AMG - sold, 1998 VW Jetta TDI - sold, 2006 C230 Sport - Totaled :(
Crankshaft Position Sensor - http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._6B86EABD.aspx

Free shipping on orders over $65 so if you need something else small might as well get it. I usually throw in a set of windshield wipers or something like that, or any small screws or clips you may need for something else.

For the battery issue, search for the seat control module battery drain issue, I hear that is common but don't know much about it.
Old 04-09-2014, 12:30 PM
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I should also mention that the remote locks have also stopped working from long distances and only respond, sometimes, when directly in front of the IR sensor on the driver door. I don't know if this is related to the battery drain or not.
Old 04-09-2014, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ajc7755
I should also mention that the remote locks have also stopped working from long distances and only respond, sometimes, when directly in front of the IR sensor on the driver door. I don't know if this is related to the battery drain or not.
Check out my post #5 here. It is probably your siren that is bad. The siren runs off the same fuse as the antenna amp, which controls the remote keyless entry. I simply unplugged the harness from the fuse box because I didn't feel like spending $150 on the siren.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...al-issues.html
Old 04-09-2014, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by C230 Mulac
Check out my post #5 here. It is probably your siren that is bad. The siren runs off the same fuse as the antenna amp, which controls the remote keyless entry. I simply unplugged the harness from the fuse box because I didn't feel like spending $150 on the siren.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...al-issues.html

By siren, do you mean the alarm that goes off? I know that currently works on the car as it goes off when I use the vallet key to unlock my driver door when the keyless won't open the door. But looking at your post, it still could be failing so I will definitely try removing the alarm harness and check the fuse as your post suggested.

Thank you so much for your help.
Old 04-09-2014, 01:22 PM
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Yeah, it's the alarm that goes off. It's somewhere underneath in front of the driver's side front wheel. My alarm wasn't working at all. Maybe yours is failing.

Anyways, good luck with the issue!
Old 04-09-2014, 01:29 PM
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eclectic assortment of cars
I would guess also the crank position sensor - hot start issues are typical symptoms of it. I've only removed and replaced the CPS on my C43 with the engine in the car, the C55 is a bit tighter to access. But it's only held in with one bolt, you will need a small torx socket though. T15 if I remember right?

Look at your MAF sensor too re: the incident 2 you described.

Good luck!
Old 04-09-2014, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Saaboteur
I would guess also the crank position sensor - hot start issues are typical symptoms of it. I've only removed and replaced the CPS on my C43 with the engine in the car, the C55 is a bit tighter to access. But it's only held in with one bolt, you will need a small torx socket though. T15 if I remember right?

Look at your MAF sensor too re: the incident 2 you described.

Good luck!
Ah yes, thanks for answering the part I forgot to

Getting to that one bolt is a huge PITA. I ended up having to take off the ignition coil closest to the firewall on driver's side, and hook up both my 6" and 3" ratchet extensions together in order to have the handle of the ratchet in a location that I could actually turn it and loosen the bolt.
Old 04-09-2014, 01:36 PM
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Also, since you will have to remove the MAF sensor to get to the sensor, you might as well go ahead and clean that and the throttle body out while you're at it.
Old 04-09-2014, 01:43 PM
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I just recently replaced the MAF about 6 months ago due to the dealership telling me the K&N filters ruined the last one. Although it was the dealership that oiled the filters back up before giving the car back to me the time before, but that's another matter.

I went ahead and ordered the CPS and some new hood shocks as well given that its getting a little old using a piece of wood to prop open the hood while I work on the engine so it doesn't slam on my head.

Last edited by ajc7755; 04-09-2014 at 01:48 PM.
Old 04-12-2014, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ajc7755
I just recently replaced the MAF about 6 months ago due to the dealership telling me the K&N filters ruined the last one. Although it was the dealership that oiled the filters back up before giving the car back to me the time before, but that's another matter.

I went ahead and ordered the CPS and some new hood shocks as well given that its getting a little old using a piece of wood to prop open the hood while I work on the engine so it doesn't slam on my head.
haha yeah I know what you mean. I had to replace the right side cuz it wasn't working and I could see the hydraulic oil seeping out of it. Much better now.

You do know you can also raise the hood up to 90 degrees, right? Just open it to normal position. Then keep pushing it up further and there's a little push button on the left shock that you will hear click into place and it will stand at 90 degrees, allowing you to have more clearance and room to work. I'm sure most people know this, just letting you know in case you don't.
Old 04-14-2014, 01:30 PM
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Thank you everyone for the advice. Replaced the CPS, thanks to the great DIY guide, and 1 day in I haven't had any issues. It also seemed to have fixed a minor issue which upon letting off the gas in a lower gear resulted in a quick drop in RPM and a small lunge in the process. As for the remote for the doors, I went back to the trunk and pulled the fuse. It looked fine, so I put it back in and now the remote is having no issues unlocking the car. Not sure what happened, but I can't argue with the current results.
Old 04-14-2014, 03:13 PM
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Interesting about the fuse thing...glad to hear it worked out!

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