AMGVice

Took my new-to-me 2005 C55 in to a new shop for the first time.

UGH! talk about costly repairs. I *really*need to learn to do some of this stuff myself.

One thing I need is a battery. They are quoting me over $440. They said
That seems crazy high to me, and I've had other V8 cars. Any advice about what kind of battery to get and/or where to get it done for a more reasonable cost? I emailed the local dealership but haven't heard back.

I saw other forum members talk about DIY but how do you re-code it?

THANKS so much for any help. I feel like I'm a stranger in a foreign land.

~Marci

Viper98912

Battery from the dealership is $170. Just bought one in December. You don't need coding. Just reset the windows by holding down the button. You're getting taken advantage of because you're a female.

AMGVice

Thanks, Viper98912, I was afraid of that.

I picked this guy because he has tons of Mercedes certifications and his write up romanced me proclaiming how he'd always love Mercedes as they were the car he learned on, yadda, yadda. I was woo'd and sure he'd love my car as much as I love it. I even quietly hoped he teach me and guide me even, with some little starter-DIY stuff. <sigh> Maybe he's not The One.

Dealership quoted me $183.70 for the battery and $50 install. Seems way more reasonable.

Thanks for the reply. I am spending a ton of time reading these boards and appreciate all the shared info and knowledge (the stuff I understand so far! LOL)

~Marci

Supgee

Replacing the battery is literally not even a 5 minute job... 150 dollars for labor? jeez.. at my dealership if you buy the battery we'll normally throw it in for free... unless its one of the harder ones (ML's under the passenger seat, R class have to remove the seat, etc). You need a ratchet, a 10mm socket, a 13mm socket, and an extension. Unclip the "cabin air filter" above the battery.. (3 little clips, just undo them). Now you can see the battery. Remove the battery terminals (negative first, then positive.. when installing put the positive on first, then negative).. then look down on your right hand side of the battery.. its a little tight that's why you need the extension... two 13mm bolts hold down a little clamp that is holding the battery in... remove this clamp... pull the battery up and out... drop in the new one... re-install clamp.. re-install terminals... then just re sync the windows/sunroof by opening and closing them... and when they are closed just hold each switch for approx 10 seconds.

AMGVice

Update if anyone is following or interested:

Actual mechanic (and part owner I believe) won me over when I went to pick up car--spent over 30 minutes showing me around the car--features, what he repaired, what else it needs, and answering my questions. His fiancee drives the same car--he even warned me about what will likely break and what to be gentle with. Recommended tires to me for future ref and even admitted he may not be able to beat the tire places on price for them. Battery he recommends is a AGM gel from Continental. Says main advantages are higher CCAs, longer life, and no need to add water yearly. I live in central TX where the current cold front means 70s, car is garaged, and a yearly water check is not a big deal IMO--finally something I can do myself in my current uneducated state! LOL

I'm still confused about the resetting labor costs. According to this tech there are both electronic stuff (airflow controller--can't remember what he called it, windows, sunroof, etc) as well as engine adaptations--so the car can re-learn throttle valve reset I believe he said.

I am thinking I will go to one of the local dealers to get the regular battery, see what they say about the resets, and I need to get another key anyway--I think a dealer is the only place to do it.

Next up: fender liners--my car is missing them and the fog light wires etc are exposed. He showed me where they go and gave me a price. Will probably take the car back to him in a few weeks to get those taken care of. Dealership was about $65 more than he was on these.

I can't tell y'all how much I appreciate this forum, the information, and friendly atmosphere. I'm already spending way too much time here!

~M

patrick_y

Marci. Please tell us what place this is so we can avoid it with a 10 foot long pole.

In general, the 2005 C55 AMG does not need battery coding. The dealer should charge you around $200 for the battery.

Stick to a service advisor at a dealership. Be loyal to the service advisor and expect loyalty back.

And let us know what shop this is that quoted you for a $400+ battery.

Viper98912

My original Mercedes battery lasted 9 years. I'm gonna stick with that one.

Post pictures of the fender liners you think you're missing.

AMGVice

patrick_y,

I don't want to think he's being intentionally dishonest about it all. The battery he quoted was a more expensive type, the receptionist "service advisor" just wasn't good at answering my questions fully when I was dealing with her instead of him directly. She may have underestimated my interest and my ability and desire to be fully informed. I get the feeling a lot of their customers drop off, say do whatever is necessary and pay the bill.

Maybe the resets are helpful but not necessary? Not sure. I'll ask the dealership when I go what their take is on it.

I linked to his bio in the above post. he's got tons of Mercedes certifications. I searched for recommendations for a shop in my area before going to him and didn't find any on this or some of the other forums, so I wasn't sure if there are even other members in my area (Austin TX)

~M

Viper98912

I recently bought my 65 from a guy near Austin. His service advisor at was Paul Jennings @ MB of Boerne. Phone 830-981-6000. Recommendation came from a guy named Hilmar.

For some of these items you can buy them online and DIY if you're interested. The battery is better just to buy from the dealership. Other items you can buy from vendors like Peach Parts, RM European, AutohausAZ, and RockAuto.

Some items you have to buy through dealers. If you need help with this, I have a friend who works at a dealer that can give you "normal" prices rather than overinflated prices.

You can also start to research your own part numbers via EPC online. http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/welcome.jsp is the link. It's a little confusing on how to use this at first, but it's free. You'll need to put in your credit card info, but the charge will be $0. Well worth it.

AMGVice

Thanks so much for the recs. I signed up for the EPC already but haven't played with it yet.

I'll look up the guy in Boerne, although that's not real close to me. I'll be going to the dealership in Georgetown as I've heard they are better than the Austin one. I'm hoping to find a good resource there as well.

The fender liners seemed like something I could do myself but without any on there, I am worried I won't be able to figure out how they attach (since I'm not removing one). I'll post pics in new thread in case it is helpful to someone else.

~M

AutohausAZ-Mike

Thanks for the shout out, Viper.

patrick_y

Thanks for the details.

Consistency among the team is important. It shows the culture and values are consistent across the company. The same food can't taste completely different when the head chef takes a day or two off.

I appreciate the explanation.

AMGVice

Last update in case it helps anyone. I emailed MB direct and asked what needed to be reset on a battery change. They said windows, clock, sunroof.

So then I asked the tech for more clarification the resets after battery installation.

He added the following:

Olivia from Mercedes Benz is absolutely incorrect about what needs to be reset when replacing a battery. She left out the most important item which is the stepper motors for the HVAC system.

These motor have ends stops that need to be learned and will break the arm if not reset.

... and relearn the throttle valve stops and engine adaptations after the battery replacement... I also update the control module software and SCN code the module if programming is available.

So there's a bit more info. Wanted to post it just in case it helps anyone. I did see threads about the stepper arms breaking but most were C32s I think and no mention of them being after a battery change or disconnect that I could find.

Things that make you go hmmm.