Allthumbs

Can't figure out how to get to it. There is not enough room between engine and firewall to get hand in??

southernwake

Not sure if you tried to search this in the search tab. Typed in "crankshaft position sensor" and found this

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...re-future.html


this one is from another mercedes site.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...r-cps-diy.html


Hope this helps and provides the information you need. Good luck with it

Andrew

Allthumbs

I saw those; just was hoping someone had posted procedure for C32. Guess I will look at from the bottom and figure it out. Thanks, maybe I will photo and submit for future C32 folks.

swedepat

Maybe it´s even tigher on an C55?
but i managed to change it with my big hands.

I took the mobilephone a snapped i pic of where as i couldn´t see it.
Then it was just pure commitment and some scars, and it was done.

took me about 4hrs to get it out.
5min to put it in =)

Saaboteur

Nuts. This was a 5 minute job on my old C43.

Allthumbs

Thanks, southernwake I got the sensor replaced...still won't crank, just turns over. Cracked the fuel line at the injector rail and no spray. Checked fuses and relays. OK. doesn't appear to have power at the main pump; so it has to be in the wiring from the rear relay to the pump....

Lenin

It is very unlikely that the wiring is bad unless the car was flooded somehow. Remove the rear seat and listen to the pump when you turn the key into position 2. Should hear some clicking from the pump. Check the fuses and relays again. When you say "cracked the fuel line" did you open the schrader valve?

Kostas20

I had a similar problem, no fuel at the rail, thought my fuel pump was toast. (Lenin helped me out with my problem also, thanks again!) If you are lucky, like me, it is the fuel lever control module connection. Disconnect it, spray some electrical contact cleaner, and reconnect. No promises but after reading a good portion of this section of the forum I have found that a lot of issues are resolved from fixing/cleaning an electrical connection.

Allthumbs

Lenin, i am in a very small town with no Mercedes mechanic so the local general mechanic just loosened the line at the junction on the drivers side (US) to see if gas would spray. just looked on-line and there is a schrader on the passenger side of the rail, correct. When we pulled the cover off the fuel pump, someone previously has spliced the wiring at the fuel pump (the green/blk wire and one other). very frustrated at this point since I was supposed to be in miami today for a new job

Lenin

You are correct. The Schrader valve is on the passenger side. If you removed a feeder line that is connecting to the fuel line and no fuel came out, you have a problem with the fuel pump or the sending unit. If someone was already messing with the wires, all bets are off and you have to start from the very beginning. Which cover did you remove? The one on the driver side will expose the sender unit. The cover on the passenger side will expose the pump unit. Do you have any pictures?

Kostas20

Allthumbs, here is a walk through that I used when I was trying to sort out my issue. It will help guide you to what is what, and if you do in fact need to replace your fuel pump it will help with that too.

http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/w203/w203/fp.html

Allthumbs

Lenin, found a great potential problem. and photos. the power wire to the pump has a fried wire at the rear SAM connector.

Lenin

That's not good. But first things first. How does the rear SAM look? It is hard to tell from the picture. Hopefully the SAM itself is not fried. See if you have power at fuse location 4 when the key is in position 2. I also think that the sunroof is on fuse 9. See if your sunroof works.

Allthumbs

The second photo is looking down into the socket corresponding to the connector that is fried. the pin in the socket is burnt. Have already ordered the SAM and waiting on a new connector. Power was good to # 4; did not hear the relay and the wire connection is the green/black power lead. The SAM requires programming, correct. Can the dealer do this prior to sending or does it require installation first? The dealer is 1.5 hrs away.

Lenin

I don't know what your dealer is capable of. You should ask whoever you are purchasing the SAM from if it comes already programmed or if they can program it to your VIN. The concern I would have is not knowing the original cause of the problem. You don't want to fry your new SAM. See if you can connect external power to your current sender and the pump to see if they are still operational or consider replacing them and the wiring.

C3Duece

great info in this thread!