C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

C55 Bi-Xenon Lights Problem

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Old 12-11-2014, 05:59 PM
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C55 Bi-Xenon Lights Problem

Hi guys,

I searched around here but did not find an answer to my issue. Right now, my passenger side Bi-Xenon light works just fine most of the time after I start the car. But, every once in a while the passenger side light just won't come on and will through a an error "right low beam". The high beams always work and after I shut the car down and restart it, the passenger side light works fine. I have new bulbs in both lights and checked the connections best I could, the bulbs are firmly attached.

Anyone know what could cause this? or what the solution is?
Old 12-11-2014, 08:21 PM
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Yes, there are two culprits at this point. There is a headlamp control unit for each side.. they are small silver boxes and control the ignition of the xenon bulbs.. it is very very common that water works its way down there and you end up finding these things corroded. To diagnose this issue, you need to swap the control units left and right (they are the same) and see if the issue follows. If it does, you need to replace the module.. They can be found online for between $200-$500 new.. a lot of used ones for sale and I actually have a spare I'd be willing to sell you if you find out that this is the problem. If the problem does not follow with the control unit swap, then the problem is with the igniter itself. (this is the red plug that the bulb connects to) and it runs down into the headlamp assembly. Mercedes Benz sells a repair kit for the igniter where you cut out the old one and solder in a new one. It is expensive though, and around $400 dollars. (last I checked from the dealer). So, there you go. If all else fails (very very unlikely) then the issue lies with the computer that controls the headlamp modules (the SAM) and since you have no other issues I wouldn't worry.
Long story short: swap control units left and right, if not its the igniter (since you said the bulbs are new)


From Mercedes Benz:
Complaint
Xenon burner does not ignite or flickers
Cause
Transistor in xenon headlamp control unit (E1n1/E2n1) defective.

Complaint
Fault message in IC ( instrument cluster) "check left/right low beam bulb" High beam and/or low beam sporadically nonfunctional

Cause
Xenon burner (SSL: 82126 73)
Xenon control unit/ignition module (SSL: 82119 73)

Last edited by Supgee; 12-11-2014 at 08:24 PM.
Old 12-11-2014, 11:46 PM
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Most of the time I find it to be the ballast. It's on the bottom of the headlight
Old 12-13-2014, 07:39 AM
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Thank you Supgee and Viper for your detailed analysis and recommendations. I will swap the ballasts (i.e. control units) at my earliest convenience and see what happens. However, these headlights, ballasts , igniters, etc. were replaced about two years ago and are therefore relatively new (about 40k miles worth).
Old 12-13-2014, 07:42 AM
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I've replaced two (or has it been three?) ballasts in 104,000 miles. It happens...
Old 07-23-2015, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Viper98912
I've replaced two (or has it been three?) ballasts in 104,000 miles. It happens...
Hey Viper,

Hope all is well. I am currently having an issue with my headlights, I think it seems to be the ballasts on both headlights. May you please elaborate on how to replace the ballasts? Is it a fairly simple DIY job? Would appreciate your input.

Thanks,
Old 07-24-2015, 06:37 PM
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When I first replaced my ballasts, I did it by removing the headlight upward and flipping over (the ballast is underneath). To remove the headlight, you not only have to remove the top bolts, but there's also a side bolt behind the bumper (near where the fender meets the bumper). So to remove the bumper (or at least, enough forward so it's out of the way), you need to take off the front grill, additional bolts, and fender liner. There's also a clip that holds the fender to the bumper, and it has a pivot point and additional bolt that you need to figure out once you're messing with it.

The ballast itself is held on by three bolts, and once you unbolt it it slides off. You'll see that the internal connector is actually mounted to the headlight, and the ballast just goes into it. So there's no connector to remove, technically.

Now, the last time I was poking around I think I figured out that there's enough clearance underneath the headlight where you could go in through the fenderwell and not have to remove the headlight at all. So I suggest taking off the wheel, taking off the fender liner, and seeing if you can reach a tool in there to pull down the ballast. If yes, then the process is so much easier.

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