sidewayzgt

Another issue with my C55! Where do I start? This all started with my injector issue. When I try and start my car the voltage on the battery drops to 8.5V and the starter grinds to a stop. The voltage goes back up to 12.5V (I know it needs 13.5V to be normal), I try to crank it again and it grinds again. I cannot get my car started because of this. I have tried to boost it with my other car and it does the same thing (it even dims the lights on my other car while its running).


I was told that it was either my starter or my battery. I know that a car cannot be diagnosed over the internet but I am asking for opinions and maybe somebody has had a similar problem? Should I start with the battery?

cm60k

[-Bad battery/bad starter solenoid/bad alternator regulator-],,

one of these could be the reason..?!!?

ZAYED,,

sidewayzgt

Should I remove all 3 and get them tested? Which one do you think I should start with?

cm60k

Did you replace your battery recently..?,,

it's the easiest to start with, in some cases; it's reflects all bad voltage/current goes>>[i]<<back to whole system...!!

ZAYED,,

sidewayzgt

I for some reason don't think its the battery. It has been sitting for a week and is holding steady at 12.75v. I know it needs to be 13.5v but that is not to far off. I know that the alternator holds the current steady when the car starts but does it have anything to do with cranking the car? Maybe a bad ground somewhere is what I am also thinking? I am going to trace the wiring and see what I find.

sidewayzgt

I have been looking everywhere for a DIY for the starter on the M113 motor. I have searched the forums and the web. Can somebody please direct me to the correct place? I know its on the passenger side and all that I need is pictures or 1 general picture of where it sits. Thanks!

Saaboteur

It is difficult to get at the starter unless you are under the car, or perhaps if the passenger side exhaust manifold is removed.

There are two main bolts that hold it in place, but these two bolts also bolt the engine and transmission together too. I forget if there are other fasteners on the support bracket too. You're likely going to have to be underneath the car to get a really good view of the starter.

sidewayzgt

I have the car on jack stands but need to get better equipment to get it higher in the air. I have ramps but the car does not start right now.


I also tried to start it again tonight and checked the battery first for voltage which was ok.


I turned the key to start it and just got a click, lights dimmed etc.
I turned the key again and it sounded like an electric motor was spinning freely while grinding the gears.
Is that the starter or the solenoid?


Is the solenoid easier to remove?

C3Duece

sounds to me like the starter is binding. 12.5V is within normal range with the car not running

sidewayzgt

I think you nailed it. What is the next step? Could it be the solenoid? Could the starter be loose? I will probably have no choice but to remove the starter. 1500 word essay and my starter tomorrow! lol

cm60k

Do you have Starter relay..?, if so, should to check if it not cutt-off the current that goes to the starter solenoid..!

ZAYED,,

C230 Mulac

Yes, check all the fuses/relays first. I believe the ones related to these items are in the fuse panel under the hood driver side right above the strut.

I think it's the battery...pull it out and take it to Advance or Pep Boys and have them test it before you go replacing the starter.

C230 Mulac

I should add to my claim saying it's the battery...I just recently had to replace the battery on my VW. Car wasn't starting after sitting overnight but it would start with a jump. Measuring voltage came out between 12.2-12.5V the night before and morning after. Point being even if you're getting a good voltage reading doesn't necessarily mean the battery is good.

One other thing to note, I took it to Advance after a jump and the battery tested out fine and they said the starter was getting a low voltage. However, that was after me driving over there and battery was warmed up. Maybe this only applies to diesels but what I should have done is just removed the battery and hitched a ride with my gf or taken the Benz (but it was snowing so f driving the C55), so they could test it while cold. If you have another means of transport, take the battery out and go get it tested. If it's not the battery, well then you know it's the starter. Better to do that then to throw money at a starter and find it's a battery. Not to mention the PITA to replace it.

sidewayzgt

I am going to check the relays and fuses this morning. Also, I tried to jump the car with my Explorer and it not only dimmed the lights (while running) on the Mercedes but it also dimmed the lights on it as well and its a 2014. Would it do that if it was the battery?

C230 Mulac

I'm not sure but it's definitely possible. One thing I noticed on my Jetta is that every time I got in it again the trip meter and the clock on the dash were reset back to zero and noon. I'm not sure if the Benz would do a similar type of thing but you could also have a bad voltage regulator. I've read a lot of people replace these as PM since they are known to go bad eventually.

IMO, get the battery out and tested. Then you can eliminate that as a possibility. Plus Advance doesn't charge anything to do this for you so you might as well. Make sure they load test it properly though.

C230 Mulac

This may help too if you have a voltmeter with min/max function

Critter

Remove the positive battery terminal off the car and then try to boost your car with the other, By placing the booster cable on the positive cable you removed, if you get the same dimming effect, remove and replace the starter, it is drawing way too much current, has the car been in water lately.
There may be a terminal block in the engine compartment that could also be burnt from maybe a loose connection that is going to ground.

sidewayzgt

The car has not been in water but it has been raining here in California. I doubt it was that. I will try removing the battery cable and trying to start it. Where is the terminal block that you are referring to?

sidewayzgt

Okay I hooked the battery of my other car to the positive cable off of the battery on the Mercedes and this time nothing but a small, short dim of the lights and a click? Is it the starter?

Critter

Your booster cables may have not made good contact with the car cables, are they good booster cables or cheapo 10 dollar set. Take your battery out of the running car ( engineoff of course) and put it into the benz, tighten the cables up and try to start.
More work but it should narrow your issue down.

sidewayzgt

I had a pretty good connection because I was watching the voltage on my Lenovo OBD2 computer. It was 13.5v and did not really drop when I turned the key? I really can't take my battery out of the new car because it's all computerized and will reset everything. One thing that did happen when I connected the cable back to the battery terminal was a huge spark (I was nowhere near a ground). This happened twice while tightening the nut for the cable end both times I reinstalled it. I could have a bad ground somewhere? This all started when the car started acting up. What could that mean?

Critter

Reread your first post, what sort of injector issue did you have???
You are not hydrolocked in the engine from a faulty injector????
Can you turn the engine over by hand

Critter

You state that there is no drop in voltage when on the boosted car but when hooked up to the car the voltage drops to 8.5V .Is the trunk battery charged and not more than 5 years old.

sidewayzgt

When this first started it was an injector issue but I just replaced them and they should not be the issue. When the car is working on its own battery and trying to start the car, I get a click (the lights dim) 3 or 4 times (with each turn of the key) and sometimes it turns but sounds like an electric motor is spinning and slightly grinding (not cranking the car). I just stopped there.


When watching the OBD2 computer the voltage would start at about 12.65V and when I turned the key it would dip down to 8.3V. When I stopped trying to start it the volts would go back up to 12.65V


When the problem first started it would turn over 1 or two times but half way through it would majorly grind and stop. This problem progressively got worse to what it is now.

Critter

I would have to say the starter is toast, remove it and check the ring gear ( the plate attached to the motor that the starter turns ) for bad, chipped or missing teeth. On the starter the bendix/drive should only turn one way and lock in the opposite direction, look for metal shards in the nose of the starter or the drive end if it is exposed.
Starter issues usually start out with poor battery voltage causing heat buildup when turning the motor. Good Battery, happy car
Good Luck