Energiiz

Hi! (Helping a friend that owns this C32)

I have a Mercedes C32 AMG 2001 170000 Kilometers. So when i buyed the car i noticed a problem (Exactly the same problem i noticed after buying a E55 AMG W211) The problem was when i give it one kickdown the car is running perfect like evrey horse is responding. BUT the second one yea like 150 horses is sleeping...

So i thought the problem was so easy like my old E55 - The Intercooler pump - so i ordered one "Johnson CM30 pump" i replaced it and also changed the coolant.

I was so excited i couldent wait, so i took the car for a test ride. First kickdown WOOW!! Second also a big WOOW but the third was not a WOW more a dissipointment...

I didn't give up the hope i was still on the highway so i tried. I just came up to 150km/h and the RPM was max. The car couldent go over that... I tried again and there the WOW kickdown came 210, 220, 230km/h WOW!

So i tried do som search on the net and some people sad to me change the relay to the IC pump in the trunk.. Well i did it to, but still the same problem

And one thing, maybe it could be something with this but i dont know... My outside temp show me -40 but it is like +25 outside..

I hope someone can help me.. I dont know what to do anymore. Change this, change this but nothing is happening

So please if you guys know something help

(Sorry for my bad english, im writing from Scandinavia)

gwin

time for a new pedal.

insame1

kick down button no good?

gwin

The potentiometer sensors in them tend to die. I've replaced mine twice now first time was with a used one then I got fed up and bought a new one. They're only about $150US

c32kompressor

Chances are that you have a leaking intercooler. Once the fluid goes low enough, the pump then runs dry. This causes it to get hot and shut off

Energiiz

Thanks for the tip. From the begginging i thought also that the problem is with my IC. Can you please send me a photo or a link so i can se exactly how it looks. How can i se if the IC is leeking?

gwin

What a load of horsecrap. If your fluids were low the coolant sensor would go off and you'll get an error on the dash. If your pump is on the way out it'll shut off at a certain temp but not with the symptoms you've described plus you already changed it wasting money when that wasn't the problem. Please take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

Dollos

just as a test, put your car in manual mode and drive. do not change gears your self unless you are coming to a stop then change down to first. let me know if there is a noticable difference on WOT....

Kostas20

Dollos,

What does this mean? I have this issue with my car currently. When I control the gears I have loads of power, when I am in auto there is a major difference and the car even seems to bog down a bit as if it takes too long to decide to shift down automatically.

Dollos

I think this what we experience is what was inherently wrong with the c32. the gearbox is to blame here. seems like some have had better use by changing tcu software but trolling the forums i havent come across any definitive answers.
But in my estimation i think a Smaller SC pully and slight mod to the tcu software by eurocharged could potentially unlock the c32s true colors...
But im just spitballing here...

MBNRG

.

ishpatel03

Also not loosing any coolant its all sealed and vacuumed the correct way, Im starting to think since the heater core is working and its blowing hot air the way it should that perhaps there may be something clogging the main radiator? i have read that plastic materials used like the propeller in the oem water pump can dislodge and create blockages, would you think that could possibly be it and most likely the radiator and not anywhere else in the cooling system?

jakel01

I had an issue of high temps after replacing the pump. I found my heat exchanger was in need of a power flush to clear out the passages internally, and also cleaning the fins to allow more air thru. This can easily be a DYI project.