91nb

Hello everyone!
I posted a few months earlier on this forum, about buying a w208 CLK430.
The only clean one I found (there aren't many over here in France) got totaled the day before the sale, so I ended up letting go of that project.

However, having a bit more money to spend on a car right now, I am looking for a c32 amg.
I have already researched the topics, and came up with some major points
And by the way, thank you all for the excellent topics, did quite some learning reading the forum
-The glycol leak, which I will have tested by the dealership prior to purchase
-The belt slip, related to a bad tensioner, which I will look for
-The Intercooler pump, cheap repair over here so doesn't scare me that much

That being said, here is a link to the c32 I'm looking at https://www.leboncoin.fr/vi/973392979.htm

Called the owner earlier, he is the third owner, all of the 3 owners were over 45/50 years old, the car has always been kept in a garage (never slept outside), and has about 68 000 miles (which isn't much for that old a car).

Seems perfect (given the dealership diagnosis comes back good).

That being said, there are a few things that are bugging me, and this is where I need your help
-First of all, the C32 has been remapped, a year ago, owner has proof of purchase of the remap. No engine or pulley modifications were made
-Second of all, it has a stainless steel exhaust but still has both its catalytic converters (I think it has had the resonator deleted and the silencer changed)
-Third of all, it has 18 inch AMG wheels. I read that the standard is 17, but I guess the original 18s fit no problem?
-Last but not least, it has been slightly lowered, as you can see in the pics

That being said, all I'm wondering is, should any of these mods be a red flag? Does lowering this car a bit completely ruin the handling? Or can it in contrary improve it?
We have excellent roads where I live, so potholes aren't an issue.

Thanks a lot for your help

Have a great day

industrial6

ECU Remap is fine - internal AMG components do not stress much.
Exhaust resonator delete is typical.
Those split spoke 18's look fine - ride height looks fine. The stock C32 front ride height is very high and most if not all consider lowering it at least an inch from stock.

Love mine. Just saw one for sale here in Toronto with every mod I've done to mine. The car deserves it.

91nb

Thanks a lot for your answer, I am going to check it out and almost surely pick it up in 10 days.

Lenin

From the description the car sounds fine. 2003 is also a plus. Good luck.

91nb

Thanks guys!
This morning, the owner told me the car was at the mechanic's, he's changing the valve cover gasket (which makes me assume it was leaking).

Should I be alarmed? Does this mean the engine has suffered abuse? Or is this normal at 69000 miles?

Lenin

It's hard to tell if you should be alarmed. Changing this gasket is not an unusual event given the age of the car. Mileage is not necessarily an issue here. Gaskets just get old. You should still check the car for wear and tear.

Gene Gorman

C32 AMG cars are really nice cars and they are fun to drive. We have a 2003 in our collection. It has been problem free and is my wife's favorite car to drive.

kbob999

I would not have any problem with that car if there are a few minor leaks. The valve covers are common leakers, as well as the power steering and oil cooler. DIY is easy to medium difficulty, and cheap. Any shop is much more cost of course. Price on the car seems right.

Ride is subjective. I like the stock ride versus a lowered and stiffer ride. It is plenty stiff for me when stock, and still handles great. Maybe a little understeer. Front is a little high, but good when it snows.

Gets 25-27 mpg when cruising 55-65, but put your foot in it and it inhales gasoline. You may need a few minor items at this age, but nothing major. Service the trans fluid, check the trans electrical connector, maybe change the motor mounts in 30K miles. Brakes might be due. Check the suspension bushings in front, they wear and crack quickly regardless of miles. Some electrical items, like seat heaters or door locks, may need help. Test everything to see if it works.

Good luck and let us know when you own it!

91nb

Again guys, I'm very thankful for the time you're spending to help me.
I ended up letting go of this c32, because its owner refused that I have it checked by an independant mechanic (and insisted on having the check done by his mechanic, a friend of his), which raises a huge red flag for me.
If he was confident his car was ok, he would have let anyone inspect it I think.

Moreover, his car had the halogen headlights, not the xenon system. So it isn't equipped with the xenon positional sensors and installing stock xenon headlights (with autoleveling) would have been a nightmare.

That being said I took note of all your precious advice, and will be using it for this one:

https://www.leboncoin.fr/voitures/954517417.htm?ca=12_s

It has new tires, and new break calipers. Transmission and radiator were changed 2 years ago (I guess this must have been related to the glycol leak, at least now I'm sure it's taken care of), and the owner changed the air conditionning compressor a few months ago.

I'll be checking it out soon.

Will keep you posted, have a nice evening all

kbob999

That's a beautiful color. At this mileage expect more major work to put the car right. Pulleys, motor mounts, suspension bushings for sure. Likely some electrical issues, shocks getting tired, fluids and filters need replaced, plastics and hoses getting old, which vary in cost to repair.
If the service is consistent, and there is no damage history, you could drive this to 300K kilometers with the usual maintenance, and a few things going to end of life. Engine and drive train is solid, but plastics and rubber only last so long.
I'm at 125K miles and going strong, but all of the things I've mentioned have been refreshed to new status. About $2K in cost, but I did it all myself.

91nb

The color clearly caught my attention.
Of course I am expecting some wear and tear issues, after all this is a 14 year old car.

That being said, I won't be driving it a lot, I usually barely put 5000 miles every year, which I think will slow down its aging process by a lot.
And this one hasn't been driven hard, the current owner barely put 10 000 miles on it in 2 and a half years of ownership.

Fluids and filters and the occasional hose have been replaced by the current owner, who has always maintained it at mercedes benz (full history available).

As for the rest of what you're describing, I think having it fully checked out by an independant mechanic will tell me exactly what to expect, and I'll renegotiate the price accordingly.

If you think I'm missing something, do not hesitate to tell me

Again thanks for your replies

Bigpapistu

25 and 55 mpg?! I was lucky to get even 15 when I had my c32

kbob999

^^^^
That's 25 mpg at 55-65 MPH. If you light foot the car, and short shift, it works.
I also get 15 mpg when I am having fun!
OTOH - My SL55 never gets better than 21 mpg, and maybe 10 when having fun.

industrial6

Go and see it - from the picture (and in my eyes) the front bonnet doesn't look flush on the drivers side, and where the grille meets the bumper. Always take a peek at the metal under the felt in the trunk and under the hood to see if it has had any damage repair. You'll notice welds and differing metal meeting, always good to find a little something off and talk the price down a tad while you're there if the repairs you find aren't too substantial. - my 2c

Gorgeous colour, love those two tone seats too.

91nb

The owner of the blue c32 has been avoiding giving me some important info regarding the annual tests the car undergoes.
Overhere, the car has to go through these tests every year and if it fails, it can't be driven.

So this all seems quite suspicious to me...I guess finding that rare a car takes time

That being said, I found this one https://www.leboncoin.fr/voitures/973248398.htm?ca=12_s

It has about 100 000 miles, this is the third owner. He gave me the results of the annual test and it only found these defects (the car passed the test anyway).
-Slight engine leak
-Slight differential leak
-Airbag light on (it's the passenger SRS airbag light)

Do these things ring any bells to you guys? Searching the forum I found out that the airbag light is mainly a minor issue that goes away once it's reset via Star system.

I'm going to have it checked by mercedes before buying it.

As always, any advice is greatly appreciated

91nb

So? What do you think?

kbob999

Looks stock, and the same color as mine. Not sure if the photos or lighting makes it look like a repaint may have happened. Check for damage. Might be nothing.

Engine leak is likely the valve covers, or less likely the power steering or oil cooler. Relavtively common and easy fixes. Worst case is the rear main seal, expensive, but rare. Not a major concern.

Differential seal is more work to fix, and from what I've heard requires a complete re-seal to do it right. Major work to place right. Plan accordingly.

Not familiar with the SRS issue, but a seat sensor or connection could be the simple fix. Reset may make it go away. Minor concern.

At 100K you should plan a lot of preventative maintenance, and fresh fluids and filters. Could be unseen items like suspension bushings to rework too. If it checks out, has good records, and drives well, it would be a good find.

91nb

Thank you
The doors have indeed been repainted, because the car was keyed a few months ago. No records of any accident though, I'll have a good look at it though just to be sure

The diff seal is indeed what was worrying me, however the owner tells me it has never left drops of oil on the floor of his garage, it's just a bit humid when driven hard.
I'll have it checked by an independant mechanic just in case.

As for maintenance, that is indeed what I plan. He has done engine oil changes every 6000 miles, and filter changes every 12 000 miles (I guess the dealership were more than happy to make him pay for excessively frequent maintenance).

I hope it will check out, I'll be seeing it on friday, will keep you guys posted and hopefully post pictures of my new toy

C32izm

Look out for the valeo radiator. if you pick one up and it has a valeo radiator change asap. these radiators mix coolant and transmission fluid.

kbob999

Forgot to mention that was the first thing I did when I bought my C32. Behr radiator, new coolant, trans filter and flush. No way was I going to kill the tranny for a $150 radiator. Kind of a tough job getting it apart, and messy, but 6 hours of work and I'm good to go.

91nb

I asked the current owner to look for a Valeo branding sticker, he says he doesn't find one, I think the car already has a Behr radiator.
Glycol test will be done either way.

I'm going to look at it tomorrow, and if all goes well I'll drive it home.
Looking forward to owning my first AMG

kbob999

Here's how to identify Valeo vs. Behr radiators.
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...42&postcount=3

If the radiator is a Valeo, it needs to go ASAP. This internal radiator leak can kill a tranny $3000+ (non DIY repair) vs. a radiator exchange at $200 DIY. You won't know it has happened until too late. Don't risk it!

I would not even bother with the Glycol test. Valeo = kill it. Behr = good to go. Negotiate accordingly.

91nb

Thanks a lot, this link will be very helpful!
I won't take any risks, if there's a valeo radiator I'll change it ASAP

91nb

From what I read, a glycol contaminated tranny can give jerky shifts, is there anything else I should be looking at regarding that leak?

Other than that, I also read that a jerk on very low rpm between 1st and 2nd gear is normal? If I have that, I shouldn't be concerned?

kbob999

Open and check the radiator reservoir tank for oil sheen or contamination. If any, it may have, or had, a trans leak at some point.

My car holds a high idle speed when cold (normal for catalytic converter warm up), which affects shifting somewhat. It then smooths out when warm and idling normally. When warm, shifting should be smooth, not jerky or slipping on the upshift. Downshift should be barely noticeable.