C55 Conductor Plate Leak
#1
Member
Thread Starter
C55 Conductor Plate Leak
Saw a oil leak on my driveway today, looked under the car and the conductor pan was wet so I'm guessing I need to change the plate, plug, and filter now.
I don't have any check engine lights or codes, tranny shifts smooth. Sometimes stays in second gear a tad bit longer when I'm going slow speeds 0-20 mph but nothing major
I have a few questions...
Replacing this means I have to drain the tranny oil. The oil has never been changed by the look of it (car has 140k on the clock). I'm thinking about after the plate is installed to filter all the sludge of the tranny oil and fill it up with the old oil and top it off with some new oil. I've heard a lot about transmission failure after putting new oil and I really don't want to risk it.
Also if I don't have any error codes/check engine will I have to take my car to a Indy shop/dealership to get it programmed?
THANKS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Last edited by Bigpapistu; 12-31-2016 at 06:10 PM.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
The failures are supposedly due to the flushing under pressure of the lines dislodging crap. I would definitely 100% use new oil to fill it again. You could just refill the volume you lost rather than a full flush. The new fluids are compatible with used fluids.
If you don't have any driving issues then you shouldn't need a new conductor plate. Just replace the pan seal, filter, drain plug/washer, the hydroelectric bush (plug with seal) and refill. You won't need STAR with the 5 speed, just the 7 speed since the TCU is incorporated into the conductor plate.
If you don't have any driving issues then you shouldn't need a new conductor plate. Just replace the pan seal, filter, drain plug/washer, the hydroelectric bush (plug with seal) and refill. You won't need STAR with the 5 speed, just the 7 speed since the TCU is incorporated into the conductor plate.
#3
The failures are supposedly due to the flushing under pressure of the lines dislodging crap. I would definitely 100% use new oil to fill it again. You could just refill the volume you lost rather than a full flush. The new fluids are compatible with used fluids.
If you don't have any driving issues then you shouldn't need a new conductor plate. Just replace the pan seal, filter, drain plug/washer, the hydroelectric bush (plug with seal) and refill. You won't need STAR with the 5 speed, just the 7 speed since the TCU is incorporated into the conductor plate.
If you don't have any driving issues then you shouldn't need a new conductor plate. Just replace the pan seal, filter, drain plug/washer, the hydroelectric bush (plug with seal) and refill. You won't need STAR with the 5 speed, just the 7 speed since the TCU is incorporated into the conductor plate.
Just replace the pan gasket, electric plug connection housing, filter, and refill with 3.5-3.75 quarts.
Also if you are curious about previous maintenance on the transmission look at the filter it will have a date code on it.
#5
Super Member
If the car drives fine it is likely NOT your conductor plate, which has all the valves and electronics on it. 99% sure it is your electrical connector to the trans. These leak all the time.
I would order a filter, gasket, fluid, and connector, then swap them all. Clean the magnets in the pan. Make sure everything is squeaky clean as lint can cause plugged control orifices in the systems.
If you want to...clean all the oil off the pan, drive for 10 miles, see where the oil is coming from. Again, likely the electrical connector on the right side.
I would order a filter, gasket, fluid, and connector, then swap them all. Clean the magnets in the pan. Make sure everything is squeaky clean as lint can cause plugged control orifices in the systems.
If you want to...clean all the oil off the pan, drive for 10 miles, see where the oil is coming from. Again, likely the electrical connector on the right side.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
one of the worst designs for the car if you ask me. lets put a bunch of electronics on the bottom of a pan sitting beneath a fluid filled component. Mine went with no leaking sign a few years back. It just died half way on the way to SD from LA. Had to limp home in 1st gear for over an hour. Darn rubber grommet went bad and allowed AT fluid to leak all down in there and short it all out. Over $1200 in repairs.