lower control arm bushings replaced with 208 bushings
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1999 c43
lower control arm bushings replaced with 208 bushings
I just rebuilt my front suspension at least most of it, idler arm bushing, complete drag link, ball joints, and lower control arm bushings. I checked the forum and couldnt find if anyone had tried this or posted this so I am posting my solution to the rear lower control arms that crack all the time. w208 rear bushings are solid and they are the same size and I have never replaced a set since the w208 chassis came out. Kit part number 208 330 0075 you would need 2 kits list is around $85 each.
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ProjectC55 (07-26-2019)
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AMG C43, 1999
Nice work, are you a MB tech? I have been thinking it was time to replace the idler arm bushing and the complete drag link. Did this tightened up your steering or did you feel an improvement.
I have also bought the front and rear wheel bearing and was going to replace those too. I don't think they are bad but then with 124,000 miles on the chassis I figure it is good preventative maintence. It may also tighen up any looseness in the steering that is hard to recognize now because I am so used to the driving the car the way it is now.
Jeff
I have also bought the front and rear wheel bearing and was going to replace those too. I don't think they are bad but then with 124,000 miles on the chassis I figure it is good preventative maintence. It may also tighen up any looseness in the steering that is hard to recognize now because I am so used to the driving the car the way it is now.
Jeff
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1999 c43
idler arm etc....
i was a dealership tech for 17 years but now i am working at my friends shop to expend his european repair service. btw im the guy you told not to hang up the leathers haha. i was hoping to pm you with some more questions about those penske shocks 8300 series now
the 208 bushings are much tighter, i also found play in the idler bushings and for my cost $18 dollars had to do it, the outer tie rods were blown out but there was play on the inner as well so i decided to replace the drag link wow way tighter draw back the drag link is $195 wholesale, i have lowered the car and installed mercedes camber bolts so im at -1.5 left and right spec is -1.28 max but i saw a post were you said -1.5 is ok. rear will be better when i get a set of your camber rods
i just replaced front bearings on my clients c43 with 280,000 miles they were pretty black and getting noisey, noise would go away under turning load easy to change and cheap, i have done some rears but it requires a press and a couple of special tools and when you press out the old one the race always gets stuck on the hub, i score it with a die grinder and hit it with a chisel and it comes right off, brute force and ignorance
got lots of suspension questions when you got some time get my clk 55 engine and trans in 10 days!!!
the 208 bushings are much tighter, i also found play in the idler bushings and for my cost $18 dollars had to do it, the outer tie rods were blown out but there was play on the inner as well so i decided to replace the drag link wow way tighter draw back the drag link is $195 wholesale, i have lowered the car and installed mercedes camber bolts so im at -1.5 left and right spec is -1.28 max but i saw a post were you said -1.5 is ok. rear will be better when i get a set of your camber rods
i just replaced front bearings on my clients c43 with 280,000 miles they were pretty black and getting noisey, noise would go away under turning load easy to change and cheap, i have done some rears but it requires a press and a couple of special tools and when you press out the old one the race always gets stuck on the hub, i score it with a die grinder and hit it with a chisel and it comes right off, brute force and ignorance
got lots of suspension questions when you got some time get my clk 55 engine and trans in 10 days!!!