ecu reset and.....WOW!
04-30-2010, 08:14 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
Plugs,wires and new air filters will havin the C43 HUMMING! Your def.overdue,good luck!
04-30-2010, 09:43 PM
#27
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05-01-2010, 02:23 AM
#28
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mafs were changed at 60k (have 93k now). fuel filter changed at 75k. did the A/B services at the stealer up until about 75k. since then, did it twice at my local indie shop. as we know, they dont do any "tuneup" stuff during those A/B services, so i guess ive never had her tuned up, lol. also had brake fluid at about 65k, tranny flush 50, 70, 85k, coolant flush at 65k, but those dont have anything to do with lack of power.
i know im close due for new spark plugs, and ive never changed the air filters (im sure the dealership wdve told me if they did). im gonna try to take a peek this weekend and see whats up with those.
i know im close due for new spark plugs, and ive never changed the air filters (im sure the dealership wdve told me if they did). im gonna try to take a peek this weekend and see whats up with those.
05-30-2010, 01:23 AM
#30
05-30-2010, 02:48 AM
#31
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The problem is not the spark plugs. It's the head. If I put 10,000 miles on a C43 over 5 years, I'd change them.
The reason I'd change them is because I've personally stripped the threads out on an aluminum head. The threads came out because a cylinder head temperature sensor's steel threads became welded to the head on my Porsche. The car was 7 years old at the time. The heads on an air cooled Porsche run hotter than anything water cooled, but the spark plug "threads" in the heads of both cars get very hot.
The center electrode on a spark plug typically runs between 930 and 1560 degrees Fahrenheit. The heat from the plug passes into the head through the threads. That's why I change the plugs on time AND use anti-seize.
The reason I'd change them is because I've personally stripped the threads out on an aluminum head. The threads came out because a cylinder head temperature sensor's steel threads became welded to the head on my Porsche. The car was 7 years old at the time. The heads on an air cooled Porsche run hotter than anything water cooled, but the spark plug "threads" in the heads of both cars get very hot.
The center electrode on a spark plug typically runs between 930 and 1560 degrees Fahrenheit. The heat from the plug passes into the head through the threads. That's why I change the plugs on time AND use anti-seize.
05-30-2010, 05:59 AM
#32
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
The problem is not the spark plugs. It's the head. If I put 10,000 miles on a C43 over 5 years, I'd change them.
The reason I'd change them is because I've personally stripped the threads out on an aluminum head. The threads came out because a cylinder head temperature sensor's steel threads became welded to the head on my Porsche. The car was 7 years old at the time. The heads on an air cooled Porsche run hotter than anything water cooled, but the spark plug "threads" in the heads of both cars get very hot.
The center electrode on a spark plug typically runs between 930 and 1560 degrees Fahrenheit. The heat from the plug passes into the head through the threads. That's why I change the plugs on time AND use anti-seize.
The reason I'd change them is because I've personally stripped the threads out on an aluminum head. The threads came out because a cylinder head temperature sensor's steel threads became welded to the head on my Porsche. The car was 7 years old at the time. The heads on an air cooled Porsche run hotter than anything water cooled, but the spark plug "threads" in the heads of both cars get very hot.
The center electrode on a spark plug typically runs between 930 and 1560 degrees Fahrenheit. The heat from the plug passes into the head through the threads. That's why I change the plugs on time AND use anti-seize.
Torque correctly your plugs when tightening, be it to check or to change.
05-31-2010, 10:22 AM
#33
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So can I get a clarification as to how to perform the ECU reset. I have heard you need WOT (Wide Open Throttle) with the pedal click and I have heard WOT WITHOUT the pedal click. I have heard you hold WOT for 5 seconds I have heard you hold WOT for 10 seconds. I have heard you remove the key and I have heard you keep the key in for 2-3min. SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooo what is the correct way to do the ECU reset and is there some sort of indicator that you have successfully reset the ECU????? 
06-01-2010, 07:08 PM
#34
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Thread Starter
Go to the first paige, third posting.This is exactly how you reset your ECU.NO THERE IS NO AUDIBLE,OR BLINKING LIGHT TO CONFIRM.AFTER YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR AGGRESSIVLY FOR ABOUT TWENTY MILES, THAT WILL BE YOUR CONFIRMATION!!!! The trans will shift quicker and crisper it adapts to your driving style.The car will feel crisper overall.
06-01-2010, 09:45 PM
#35
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Go to the first paige, third posting.This is exactly how you reset your ECU.NO THERE IS NO AUDIBLE,OR BLINKING LIGHT TO CONFIRM.AFTER YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR AGGRESSIVLY FOR ABOUT TWENTY MILES, THAT WILL BE YOUR CONFIRMATION!!!! The trans will shift quicker and crisper it adapts to your driving style.The car will feel crisper overall.
FLOOR ACCELERATOR FOR 5 SECONDS <-------- is this with or without the pedal click????
06-25-2010, 12:15 AM
#36
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ECU RESET AS FOLLOWS 1.TURN KEY TO ON POSITION. 2.FLOOR ACCELERATOR HOLD FOR 5 SECONDS, TURN KEY TO OFF POSITION DO NOT REMOVE KEY RELEASE ACCELERATOR .DO NOT OPEN DOOR WINDOWS ETC.3.WAIT 2-3 MIN.FOR COMPUTER TO RESET.Start car drive aggressively for approx 10 miles.The computer will 'tailor' itself for a more aggressive performace.This worked very well on my car and you can definatly feel the difference especially if the car has been driven lazily for a whil.Like A SHOT IN THE A@@!!
FLOOR ACCELERATOR FOR 5 SECONDS <-------- is this with or without the pedal click????
FLOOR ACCELERATOR FOR 5 SECONDS <-------- is this with or without the pedal click????
OK I did the reset today and it is TRUE!!!!! THIS IS A WHOLE NEW CAR!!!!! The shifting is SOOOOOOO CRISP and the acceleration is much quicker. I will say this though..... right off the bat it was slower but I remembered someone saying you need to drive it like it was stolen. I had my wife with me and even she noticed a difference as the acceleration was neck snapping and she was complaining...LOLOLOLOLOL. Anytime my wife complains that my car is making her head hit the head rest I am HAPPY!!!! I can't wait to hear what she has to say when I add the E55 to my stables and the neck snapping is even WORSE
I LOVE MY C43!!!!!!
06-30-2010, 01:00 PM
#38
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1995 c36 amg
SO does reseting the computer work on the c36's? i have a 95 36amg and have been told to try to reset the computer but is it safe? and has it been done? Also im lacking power once the car warms up. But on cold mornings i run like a bat outa hell any sugestions?
06-30-2010, 01:05 PM
#40
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I'll be a bit provocative, but I suggest you buy a C43.... I'm just joking and I admire those who keep the C36's alive and kicking. Keep it up!
07-03-2010, 11:29 AM
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1995 c36 amg
right on so it seems like the air filter and new plugs would give a little pep? And btw i talked to my mechanic and reseting the ecu is horrible for the car, they had a guy that reset his all the time and kept having bad problems every time after. just a fyi
07-03-2010, 11:37 AM
#42
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hmmmmm...... so let me get this straight, an ECU reset (which was concocted by the genius's at MB) is bad for your car????? I fail to see how using a a program that CAME with the car would be bad. Perhaps the guy with the problems had a lemon???
05-09-2011, 02:41 PM
#44
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Ducati
Changed the plugs and reset the ECU on my 43, and then let the previous owner drive it...
He was very suprised with the overall improvement in power, throttle response, and transmission.
He was very suprised with the overall improvement in power, throttle response, and transmission.
08-09-2012, 04:08 PM
#45
Senior Member
was there ever any official consensus on this?
seems like a couple drivers on this thread are saying its true but it just seems so hard to believe.
from reading the manual about the adaptive transmission i read into it that it was CONSTANTLY adaptive, much like any automatic tranmission on todays vehicles, in that when you floor it the car shifts at different points than if you just slowly accelerate. How is what we are discussing here any different than when you floor it on the C43 it shifts at redline but just driving normal it shifts at 3500rpm (or whatever), isnt that the transmission being adaptive? I can see it perhaps holding that higher or lower shift point data for a few minutes, but learning it and then sticking with it until its reset
i find it really hard to believe that driving your car slowly and gingerly for a few weeks will cause it to lose performance when you then drive it hard. conversely it makes no sense that if you want to have the car at full potential that you have to drive like mad to keep the tranny 'on its toes'.
also just makes no sense that every few months that you would have to reset. and i would assume constantly resetting the ECu would in fact not be good for the car.
Im going with Occum's Razor on this topic. If some hard data is provided to prove otherwise I'm all ears.
seems like a couple drivers on this thread are saying its true but it just seems so hard to believe.
from reading the manual about the adaptive transmission i read into it that it was CONSTANTLY adaptive, much like any automatic tranmission on todays vehicles, in that when you floor it the car shifts at different points than if you just slowly accelerate. How is what we are discussing here any different than when you floor it on the C43 it shifts at redline but just driving normal it shifts at 3500rpm (or whatever), isnt that the transmission being adaptive? I can see it perhaps holding that higher or lower shift point data for a few minutes, but learning it and then sticking with it until its reset
i find it really hard to believe that driving your car slowly and gingerly for a few weeks will cause it to lose performance when you then drive it hard. conversely it makes no sense that if you want to have the car at full potential that you have to drive like mad to keep the tranny 'on its toes'.
also just makes no sense that every few months that you would have to reset. and i would assume constantly resetting the ECu would in fact not be good for the car.
Im going with Occum's Razor on this topic. If some hard data is provided to prove otherwise I'm all ears.
08-13-2012, 10:53 PM
#46
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was there ever any official consensus on this?
seems like a couple drivers on this thread are saying its true but it just seems so hard to believe.
from reading the manual about the adaptive transmission i read into it that it was CONSTANTLY adaptive, much like any automatic tranmission on todays vehicles, in that when you floor it the car shifts at different points than if you just slowly accelerate. How is what we are discussing here any different than when you floor it on the C43 it shifts at redline but just driving normal it shifts at 3500rpm (or whatever), isnt that the transmission being adaptive? I can see it perhaps holding that higher or lower shift point data for a few minutes, but learning it and then sticking with it until its reset
i find it really hard to believe that driving your car slowly and gingerly for a few weeks will cause it to lose performance when you then drive it hard. conversely it makes no sense that if you want to have the car at full potential that you have to drive like mad to keep the tranny 'on its toes'.
also just makes no sense that every few months that you would have to reset. and i would assume constantly resetting the ECu would in fact not be good for the car.
Im going with Occum's Razor on this topic. If some hard data is provided to prove otherwise I'm all ears.
seems like a couple drivers on this thread are saying its true but it just seems so hard to believe.
from reading the manual about the adaptive transmission i read into it that it was CONSTANTLY adaptive, much like any automatic tranmission on todays vehicles, in that when you floor it the car shifts at different points than if you just slowly accelerate. How is what we are discussing here any different than when you floor it on the C43 it shifts at redline but just driving normal it shifts at 3500rpm (or whatever), isnt that the transmission being adaptive? I can see it perhaps holding that higher or lower shift point data for a few minutes, but learning it and then sticking with it until its reset
i find it really hard to believe that driving your car slowly and gingerly for a few weeks will cause it to lose performance when you then drive it hard. conversely it makes no sense that if you want to have the car at full potential that you have to drive like mad to keep the tranny 'on its toes'.
also just makes no sense that every few months that you would have to reset. and i would assume constantly resetting the ECu would in fact not be good for the car.
Im going with Occum's Razor on this topic. If some hard data is provided to prove otherwise I'm all ears.
I have tried it and it definitely changed the shift points to where it would hold the gear longer before shifting. I believe it takes 40 shifts for the TCU to adapt.
you say "i find it really hard to believe that driving your car slowly and gingerly for a few weeks will cause it to lose performance when you then drive it hard. conversely it makes no sense that if you want to have the car at full potential that you have to drive like mad to keep the tranny 'on its toes'." but what is an adaptive tranny then
try the reset and post your results...
08-14-2012, 02:45 AM
#47
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Well, I can report that during the winter months when 'T Rex' was dormant on axle stands, I had removed the battery completely from the car. So it basically sat around 6 months without any juice. When it was back on the ground and running, the response was noticeable and accelerator reaction was very fast. It could be also that I had forgotten how a 43 behaved or misbehaved....
08-14-2012, 03:19 AM
#48
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The best way to reset the ECU,, disconnect the battery for at least "2" hours,, or unplugged the ECU connectors, for a while......
ZAYED,,
ZAYED,,
08-14-2012, 04:57 AM
#49
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
The only real and official way is to get the car on Star and clear both ECU and TCU 
