sickc43owner

With the 55 engine in , power increase is incredible.the torque that's their while cruising and then stepping into it, awesome!!!!
I rebuilt the Trans while it was out, so the car as a whole feels flawles, on the hunt for some. E90 m3s

DRBC43AMG

Thanks for the comments Looks like I need to do something in the future

fastneutron

You can sell it to me when you're done spanking E90 M3s

sickc43owner

If you need yours 55 indtalled let me know I can take care of That for you

sickc43owner

Fastneutron-if your local to NorCal

fastneutron

I'm in Castro Valley/Hayward area. I have to source out an engine first. I'll PM you.

fastneutron

Conversion is done on my C43 using S55 engine. Big thanks to SickC43Owner for doing the swap. Very professional job. This thing is a beast!!

KJI3jflarryfe93

does S55 engine have more torque than E55 engine?

what year did you get, did engine come from a non supercharged car?

water inlet is it present on this S55 engine, just plug n play connecting the water hose?

did you have to do anything to your ECU like re-flashing it at a shop or did you just drive the car and ecu re-learned by itself?

svt ricco

Congratulations! Lately, there's been a couple swaps happening.... Very tempting....

fastneutron

Engine was from '01 S55 so it's normally aspirated. No tune done after the swap although the ECU was sent to Speed Tuning back in 2005. It seems to have adapted well to the 55 engine.

S55 engine may have a bit more power & torque, but not much.

benzslo

Power on the n/a 55's should be about the same on all, different ratings are likely due to variations in intake and exhaust.

I just recently finished up rebuilding my w210 E55 motor. New piston rings, rod bearings, valve job, new chains and guides, oil pump, everything resealed, plugs, all OEM parts, etc. It has nickle and dimed me but it's done and I'm dropping it in this Thursday. I can't wait! Couple old hotrod tricks during the build too

I saw a guy on the club MB UK site on his rebuild he swapped the water outlet to the other side head. I don't know if this is due to being right hand drive... but this is not needed for USA cars.

I also used an oil pump from a later m113 motor, it is underdriven by 4 teeth compared to my 2000 e55 motor. matching pump chain needed.

benzslo

^^^
I need to correct my previous post. I did not see the water outlet on my car on the right side bank previously, it is kind of tucked in and not at the very back of the head.

I used a w210 E55 engine as my foundation and I did need to add the water oulet to the right side cylinder head. This is press fit, you must knock out a frost plug in the head and press in the water outlet. It caught me off guard after I had the engine out doing the swap, I ended up being able to extract the outlet from the 43 engine using a pilot bearing puller tool, and it came out fine. For most, it might be best to just buy a new outlet piece if you can get them from MB, I did not even check with my parts dept. as I just wanted to wrap it up ASAP.

Besides that, it was a straight forward swap. Car runs beautifully and the torque increase really transforms the car, it is very fun and lively.

Sorry if this has been discussed, just wanted to correct my post so I would not confuse anybody.

Pagz

@Benzslo
How many miles on your 55 engine? what did the silica bores look like?, were the rings heavily worn?,piston skirts worn? did you hone or leave as is?.

Just asking as there are a few high mile ones around im intersted in, My only concern is the bores and if they last as long as people say they do. Pretty sure only fix is a new block?.

benzslo

There was 165k miles on mine. The cylinder walls looked fine, no heavy scoring, a few light scores but pretty good. The walls still measures in spec and my ring gaps still in spec, albeit on the higher end of the spec. The pistons did not show any wear at all. I stuck them all in my hot tank parts washer and it cleaned them for the most part, but the ring lands were pretty clogged up, I had to manually clean each one to look like new again. The carbon in the ring lands is always why the 112/113 start using oil, sticks the rings.

I also replaced all the rod bearings. There was a couple I saw just a hint of the copper color poking through. Main bearings looked good, I left them in. Valves had some carbon buildup but nothing horrible, I did clean them up though. Other than that it was good. I think checking the maintenance history of your engine will be the biggest deciding factor whether I'd want to run as is or go through it. If mine was closer to 100k miles and it had very regular services, I might have been inclined to run it with only a reseal. I'd recommend at least doing the rear main while its out. They will leak soon if they aren't yet.

There is standard size rings, and also a "repair size". And there are instructions in wis on honing and what size to go to. I'd try to avoid doing that if possible..

Pagz

Good info thanks!, So did you say you replaced the small rod ends too? Also did you go with standard size rings?.

Yes the dreaded rear seal,Im pretty sure mine is leaking already.

benzslo

You mean by the wrist pin? No, just the bearing shells for the crank, all the other bearings looked good. I could have replaced more but everything gets expensive, I'm a dealer employee and I still had probably near $1500 in parts when all said and done. Doing it right is not cheap. New bolts for rods, main caps, heads, cam bridges.. 24 valve seals, ALL new gaskets, rings were $400 alone.

I used standard size rings. You'd only use repair size if you hone it out, you have to hone it to a specific size for this and you'd really want to make sure you do this right and know what you're doing with these cylinder walls. Wis gives very specific instructions on this and its meant to be done by machine as they give details on hone speed vs up/down rate, grit, etc etc

Pagz

Just read " all the rod bearings" in the last post,I was a bit surprised hence asking if your replaced the small ends as these hardly ever wear out!. Are the M113 crank/cam/rod bolts one use only or can they be reused depending on length?

Interesting wis supplies that info,we have the right gear to hone any spec down here but I would have thought the etched silica would be a one use only?,my guess is the bore is significantly weaker once honed?.

benzslo

sorry, i just meant all as in all 8 cylinders.

The rod bolts, main cap bolts, cam bridge bolts are all supposed to be replaced every time. The head bolts do have a spec for length, i just replaced them though.

I always thought the cylinders were no-repairs also, but then my parts guy asked if I wanted the repair size, so I looked and sure enough there is instructions for honing.

PJmak

Just out of curiosity...

If one was to get lucky and find a brabus 5.8 m113 motor, what kind of ecu would you guys think is best to use? Would the stock ecu be a good idea or no?

nd4spd13

Just out of curiosity, are you a lucky ba$tard?

What else did Brabus do to the engine? Is it just bored/stroked more?
People say the 4.3 ecu runs the 5.4l just fine, so I'm sure it'd be fine to run a 5.8. But I'd just get a custom tune done on whatever ECU was in the car to get the most out of it. I guarantee Brabus tuned it.

PJmak

I wish man but you never know....anything thats mercedes or related depreciates like crazy

not really sure what exactly brabus did to the engine.

benzslo

Theoretically it should run just fine. As long as they graphed the maf tables out that far. Guys with 55's, cams, headers, porting have been fine, in reality that's probably pushing just as much if not more air.

I know my setup runs great on stock programming, I monitor the fuel mixture adaptations with the tester and they are spot on as well so I see no reason to mess with it, other than trying some extra timing would be interesting. I do have a wideband I may put in just to verify.

But if you're ponying up the $$ for that motor, I'm sure you're going on the dyno where you can check your a/f also. There isn't anything magical about a n/a tune. Get the fuel mixture where you want and add as much timing as you can.

svt ricco

According to brabus, there was only 1 5.8 c58 made for U.S. market and he happens to be a member here too. He seldom visits the forum

PJmak

Thats true but that same engine is used in many other brabus models

ECTurboGSX

Are you guys sticking with C43 Engine Mounts? I recall reading some where that mounts from another model would bolt in and are beefier. Thanks.