suspension mods

[pfleger81]

This would be ideal but a little expensive (thanks to 503c43 for the info). I really just want to lower it 1.5" without causing any major damage/wear. Is all of the following necessary? Vogtland springs Bilstein sport shocks K-MAC front camber kit MB Arts rear adjustable camber arms Front lower control arms Rear control arm kit (replaces all rear control arms except lower) Rear Lower control arms Drag link Sway bar bushings Sway bar links Idler arm bushing Ball joints Steering damper Sub Frame bushing kit

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[m a x i m u s]

Originally Posted by pfleger81

This would be ideal but a little expensive (thanks to 503c43 for the info). I really just want to lower it 1.5" without causing any major damage/wear. Is all of the following necessary?

Vogtland springs
Bilstein sport shocks
K-MAC front camber kit
MB Arts rear adjustable camber arms
Front lower control arms
Rear control arm kit (replaces all rear control arms except lower)
Rear Lower control arms
Drag link
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar links
Idler arm bushing
Ball joints
Steering damper
Sub Frame bushing kit

I dropped mine by installing the eurospec springs. Lowered it by about that much, if not a bit more, esp in front. At the time, I just wanted a more flush look versus slammed, so it was perfect.

[m a x i m u s]

Originally Posted by m a x i m u s

I dropped mine by installing the eurospec springs. Lowered it by about that much, if not a bit more, esp in front. At the time, I just wanted a more flush look versus slammed, so it was perfect.

Oh, and I didn't do anything else, just swapped the springs.

[Saaboteur]

Originally Posted by pfleger81

This would be ideal but a little expensive (thanks to 503c43 for the info). I really just want to lower it 1.5" without causing any major damage/wear. Is all of the following necessary?

Vogtland springs
Bilstein sport shocks
K-MAC front camber kit
MB Arts rear adjustable camber arms
Front lower control arms
Rear control arm kit (replaces all rear control arms except lower)
Rear Lower control arms
Drag link
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar links
Idler arm bushing
Ball joints
Steering damper
Sub Frame bushing kit

I would say from your list that you would absolutely need the springs to lower the car (duh), and it would really be desirable for the rear adjustable camber arms so you can correct the rear camber once lowered. You may be able to get the alignment you need with the factory eccentric bolts for the front, but if not, then the KMac front camber/caster kit is the only game in town.

The other parts are nice to do, to freshen up the suspension, but not 100% necessary just to lower it. You could tend to replace those other bits and pieces when you need to do them, ie. when the bushings begin to fatigue.

That said, replacement of the front control arm bushings with the KMac kit (or with new OE bushings, as the rearward one on the control arm breaks and can cause clunking noises at low speed) will require spring removal. If you're going to lower it, then you might as well do the KMac kit / control arm bushings too.

Oh, and the steering damper is cheap - like sub $40 - and as mine was completely toast, it really restored a lot of steering weight. Thumbs up from me on that one. And even better, it's like a 5 minute job to replace it.

[pfleger81]

Originally Posted by Saaboteur

I would say from your list that you would absolutely need the springs to lower the car (duh), and it would really be desirable for the rear adjustable camber arms so you can correct the rear camber once lowered. You may be able to get the alignment you need with the factory eccentric bolts for the front, but if not, then the KMac front camber/caster kit is the only game in town.

The other parts are nice to do, to freshen up the suspension, but not 100% necessary just to lower it. You could tend to replace those other bits and pieces when you need to do them, ie. when the bushings begin to fatigue.

That said, replacement of the front control arm bushings with the KMac kit (or with new OE bushings, as the rearward one on the control arm breaks and can cause clunking noises at low speed) will require spring removal. If you're going to lower it, then you might as well do the KMac kit / control arm bushings too.

Oh, and the steering damper is cheap - like sub $40 - and as mine was completely toast, it really restored a lot of steering weight. Thumbs up from me on that one. And even better, it's like a 5 minute job to replace it.

cool this is what i probably do but i will look into everything. Maximus any problems with just installing the eurospec springs (uneven wear/clunking noises)? and where did you find them, would you buy them again?

[m a x i m u s]

Originally Posted by pfleger81

cool this is what i probably do but i will look into everything. Maximus any problems with just installing the eurospec springs (uneven wear/clunking noises)? and where did you find them, would you buy them again?

no problems at all with just spring swap. someone else on here can correct me if i am wrong, but the shock absorbers are the same for the US spec and Euro spec C43's, so no change there. it also aligned no problems. i bought them on ebay (genuine MB parts) from someone in germany. they are, however, just W210 parts. you can search the forums for the part numbers and then just get them locally, bc the biggest cost was the shipping due to weight.

[MarcusF]

Originally Posted by pfleger81

cool this is what i probably do but i will look into everything. Maximus any problems with just installing the eurospec springs (uneven wear/clunking noises)? and where did you find them, would you buy them again?

They are available at any dealer. Per a thread two days ago, the fronts are part number 210.321.22.04 and cost $50 each at MB of Annapolis, The rears are part number 210.324.34.04 and cost $52 or so at the same dealer.

[503C43 ////AMG]

You do not need to replace all of the parts listed to lower your car, I did because I am crazy like that and plan on keeping my C43 for EVER... I will say that my C43 handles better than I could ever of thought, the difference from stock to what I have now is completely night and day. The higher frequency vibrations are much more smooth but the low frequency ones are much more harsh, guess its a trade off but I like it better this way as usually the higher frequency vibrations are impossible to avoid (crappy road, etc..) but the lower frequency vibrations are REAL easy to avoid (pot holes, etc..) once you get used to it. I can take corners at speeds you wouldn't believe with little to no over steer (I have one time since I had the suspension installed but it was wet out). Over all it was worth every penny and I would do it again in a heart beat. I definitely recommend it to anyone who plans on keeping their C43 for a while.

[pfleger81]

Originally Posted by 503C43 ////AMG

I did because I am crazy like that and plan on keeping my C43 for EVER...

This. I plan on keeping the car for a long time I just need to consider how crazy I want to be. I might go w some vogtlands and adjust as needed.

[503C43 ////AMG]

Originally Posted by pfleger81

This. I plan on keeping the car for a long time I just need to consider how crazy I want to be. I might go w some vogtlands and adjust as needed.

Like SAAB said I would recommend you get the springs, shocks, rear camber kit, and either the factory eccentric bolts (I don't think these will work with the vogtlands as it is a pretty low drop) or get the K-MAC kit for the front to start with (I recommend going with the K-MAC as not only are you correcting your camber but you also be replacing a bushing as well as have the ability to adjust not only your camber but your caster as well)

[DuaneC63]

I ordered factory euro suspension springs and shocks from CEC in LA. I don't remember if the shock part numbers were different than the ones I took off. (Maximus maybe correct that they are the same.) Lowered the car about 1.25" in the front and 1" in the rear. No ill side effects (no rubbing, no noise, no ruff ride) and greatly improved the handling. I did have to add factory adjustable camber bolts to the front end, but they were not expensive. Otherwise alignment was made within spec. All in cost about $1,000 (parts and alignment). If you can get the euro springs here and your car has over 50K on it, you might as well change the shocks. I liked the C43 because nobody had even heard of AMG at the time much less a performance MBZ. Surprised a few M3's back in the day. Great cars and I always give em the thumbs up when I see them on the road. Enjoy.

[pfleger81]

now im torn, keeping it factory does appeal to me. I will look into the factory euro option. vogtland's or factory euro's?

[John-in-Dallas]

pfleger -

The ride comfort will be the biggest decision point in your spring choice -OEM Euro versus any aftermarket. Aftermarket will be stiffer, and less comfortable, but probably handle better.

I've got the OEM Euro-spec springs and the ride is exactly like the original US-spec springs. I used #1 spring pads in front and it's as low as I would want to go, but I have no rubbing or bad side affects what-so-ever. It aligned fine (at the dealer) with no replacement of camber adjusting bolts, etc.

When you lower your car, you will notice one odd side-effect - when turning sharply at very low parking speeds, the wheel tends pull itself to full lock. It feels strange.

P.S. if you look at my posting history, you will find that I've confirmed the OEM Euro-spec part numbers. I bought them from Europe, but as others have noted, they can be purchased in the US at any dealer. They have a 210 part number.

[hoontastic]

Thanks for all the anecdotal info everyone. I think I'm going oem euro springs and bilstein sports.

[slowsky]

what will the drop be for euro springs and bilstein sports? no camber bolts needed? debating on whether to get the HD or sports to go with the euro springs...but only want to drop maybe 1-1.25...two finger gap wheel well...

[503C43 ////AMG]

Originally Posted by slowsky

what will the drop be for euro springs and bilstein sports? no camber bolts needed? debating on whether to get the HD or sports to go with the euro springs...but only want to drop maybe 1-1.25...two finger gap wheel well...

I would be willing to bet the factory eccentric bolts would suffice to adjust your camber when using the euro spec springs (they can be obtained from the dealership for $20) but you would need something like the K-MAC to kit if you went lower than that.

From the look you are describing I suggest you look at Kowalskis stance on his C43, he has the euro springs but I am unsure of what # pad he is running.

[kowalski]

Originally Posted by 503C43 ////AMG

I would be willing to bet the factory eccentric bolts would suffice to adjust your camber when using the euro spec springs (they can be obtained from the dealership for $20) but you would need something like the K-MAC to kit if you went lower than that.

From the look you are describing I suggest you look at Kowalskis stance on his C43, he has the euro springs but I am unsure of what # pad he is running.

Here are some nasty pictures of my car.
I'm runnin' stock AMG euro springs/shox with #2 = 9mm pads all 4 corners

[DuaneC63]

Originally Posted by slowsky

what will the drop be for euro springs and bilstein sports? no camber bolts needed? debating on whether to get the HD or sports to go with the euro springs...but only want to drop maybe 1-1.25...two finger gap wheel well...

HD shocks will be closer too stock, the sport shocks a bit more stiff, but not unbearable. Shock don't influence drop. Only springs do so you'll be safe with factory eurosprings.

[kowalski]

Originally Posted by DuaneC63

HD shocks will be closer too stock, the sport shocks a bit more stiff, but not unbearable. Shock don't influence drop. Only springs do so you'll be safe with factory eurosprings.

sport shox are made for lowering springs.
HD is for standard height springs.

since euro AMG cars are using lower springs than US version cars then sport Billies should work?
these sport shox are shorter than HD version

[slowsky]

kowalski, your drop is what i'm looking for...now to figure out to go with HD or sport...is stock HD or sport or in between?

[hoontastic]

Nice that is really helpful to see. Looks just about right to me. I'm circling on the same decisions as slowsky. I'm leaning towards bilstein sports. Must get brakes and tires first though.

[503C43 ////AMG]

Originally Posted by slowsky

kowalski, your drop is what i'm looking for...now to figure out to go with HD or sport...is stock HD or sport or in between?

From what I understand the stock shocks are custom made by AMG and are even more HD than the HD's that bilstein offers the public. I got the bilstein sports and can say that they are softer on the high frquency vibrations but harsher on the low frequency vibrations than the stock ones were but then again my stock shocks had 117,000 miles on them so I can't compare the sports to how the stock ones felt brand new. I can say I felt a MAJOR difference and am extremely pleased with the sports.

[slowsky]

thanks for the explanation 503C43 ////AMG...my car has about 110k miles on stock shocks/springs....long overdue....

so bilstein sport with euro spec springs and #2 pads, should give me the 1-1.5" lowered rake look...alignment and camber wear shouldn't be an issue.

would love to go lower but i live in pothole central...

i'm already missing a 1/4 of my passenger side rear spring from last summer after i launched too hard at the track and snapped it.

[503C43 ////AMG]

Originally Posted by slowsky

thanks for the explanation 503C43 ////AMG...my car has about 110k miles on stock shocks/springs....long overdue....

so bilstein sport with euro spec springs and #2 pads, should give me the 1-1.5" lowered rake look...alignment and camber wear shouldn't be an issue.

would love to go lower but i live in pothole central...

i'm already missing a 1/4 of my passenger side rear spring from last summer after i launched too hard at the track and snapped it.

You will want to get an alignment after you lower it and I would be willing to bet you will have some negative camber but I could be wrong. The lower you go the more negative camber you will incur. Start with the factory eccentric camber bolts, I bet those will work and you can get them for $20 from the dealership (cheap solution compared to the $400 K-MAC kit, the K-MAC kit is a bushing with bolts where the factory eccentrics are just bolts, I fully recommend the K-MAC kit but if you can't afford it factory eccentrics are the next best thing.)

[slowsky]

factory bolts are fine, just want to be lowered a tad...slightly above having to use KMAC....figure the euro spec springs shouldn't drop too much vs vogtland or h&r...