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Im new to Mercedes, this forum and AMG.
Ive just picked up a black on black AMG C43 1999, (ill get some pictures once its cleaned up).
The main reason why i picked up the car was mainly how well equipped the car is considering the price i got it for.
My main intention for the car is to try to restore it to its old glory, im not into swapping enginge or anything like that as i would rather get an e55 2004-2006.
But back to this car now.
The car has 250 000 km and the last service thats stamped is 225 000 km.
It got double costum amplifiers and a subwoofer in the spare wheel compartment. This is acctually something that i wanna remove as i dont appriciate it to much.
Ive only got one upgrade in mind that seems to be tempting to get and that the QTP electric cutout to get more sound of the engine as i feel its a bit quiet, plus that it seems to have good wife acceptance hehe.
Its the first car ive owned that i gonna try to do the maintenance on, and so far i got a hold of a few problems that its got:
- The left mirror is of some brownish color, new blue one is ordered.
- The polybelt is squeeking alot when the car is cold and keeps squeeking until the car has been driven for like 20 mins. My thought for this would be to replace the belt at first as the temperature of the car seems to be stable, and if the squeeking continues ill look in to the wheels that might be causing it.
- New sparkplugs ordered,
- New oil filter ordered with 8 litre of 0w-40 as it seems to be the choice of most of u guys here.
- Coupe filter,
- Air filters,
- Both headlight glasses will be replaced along with the xenon bulbs.
Diffrential oil was changed at 200 000 km so it dosent feel neccesary to change it.
Id like to have u guys oppionions upon weather or not to change the following:
- Coolant liquid?
- Transmission fluid? It shifts fine without any remarks,
- Power steering liquid?
- Brake liquid?
- The idle seems to be running a bit low, should i be concerned or is it how its suppoused to run? , it runs at 700-900 rpm.
Most of the maintenance will be done the upcoming weekend as i got some spare time left over and an complete wash out of the car.
Previous cars ive owned are:
BMW 125d 2013 that had a ecu upgrade, at 270 hp, with KW V3 and some r-tires and BBS replicas,
Ive had an golf gti 2009 with an ecu upgrade aswell,
And an audi S4 which lasted for 6 hours before i had to maneuver away from a guy who pulled up in an intersection which resulted in a 3-5 meter long jump breaking all the rims and the engine mounts plus the oil container.
I work as an construction engineer if anyone needs some help with anything regarding it. Live in Sweden, if u got any complaints on the english .D
Är det många andra svenskar här?
Verkar vara det bästa forumet för mb amg bilar. Man har läst många poster och kunskapen verkar onekligen vara hög.
Norrman?
Är det många andra svenskar här?
Verkar vara det bästa forumet för mb amg bilar. Man har läst många poster och kunskapen verkar onekligen vara hög.
Norrman?
yup, this is the best forum in universe.
we're here to help ya broder, bara fråga på!!
välkommen förresten, skrev litte på fyllan förrut.
posta bilder på bilen, köpte du den svarta c43an som fanns på Blocket nyligen?
yup, this is the best forum in universe.
we're here to help ya broder, bara fråga på!!
välkommen förresten, skrev litte på fyllan förrut.
posta bilder på bilen, köpte du den svarta c43an som fanns på Blocket nyligen?
Yup, i got that one, but it was in worse shape then the pictures showed on the ad,
My asumption was that the previous owner couldent afford maintaining it... there for the due diligence and inspection.
I havent got any pictures of the car yet but ill bring my nikon and get some before and after pictures.
Ill give you a sneak peak of what to come,
BMW 1 series, 125d, Drifting:
check these stuff if they were replaced and if you still have the reciepts?
harmonic balancer = remskiva på vevaxel, KAPUTT del från MB, uppdaterad X antal gånger
idler pulley = övre löphjul i plast, kan vara väldigt sliten vid höga mil att plasten kan brista i delar
drive belt
crankshaft sensor = vevaxel sensor, sliten sensor ger svårstartad bil när motorn är varm, bilen startar inte förrän den kallnat rejält i motorn.
O2 sensors = lambdasensorer som kan vara trasiga vilket ger ryckig växling mellan 1an o 2an vid snabba starter från stillastående.
transmission oil change it ASAP if it wasn't changed for ages?
coolant only use MB fluids
upon service change the brakefluid
owning an AMG is like having a constant date with a high maintanence lady, both costs money all the time
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 01-13-2015 at 07:55 AM.
check these stuff if they were replaced and if you still have the reciepts?
harmonic balancer = remskiva på vevaxel, KAPUTT del från MB, uppdaterad X antal gånger
idler pulley = övre löphjul i plast, kan vara väldigt sliten vid höga mil att plasten kan brista i delar
drive belt
crankshaft sensor = vevaxel sensor, sliten sensor ger svårstartad bil när motorn är varm, bilen startar inte förrän den kallnat rejält i motorn.
O2 sensors = lambdasensorer som kan vara trasiga vilket ger ryckig växling mellan 1an o 2an vid snabba starter från stillastående.
transmission oil change it ASAP if it wasn't changed for ages?
coolant only use MB fluids
upon service change the brakefluid
owning an AMG is a like having a constant date with a lyxhora, both costs money all the time
None of the above mentioned is documented so ill guess ill order some transmission fluid and while i change the polybelt ill see what parts are worn, the thing i want to avoid changing is the belt tensioner as it costs 200$+ but the rest of the parts you have mentioned are cheap to replace..
Is it appearent if the O2 sensors are done?
Btw are u from stockholm?
And what page do you get ur spare parts from? Ive shopped most of my parts from mbspecialisten.se
when your o2 sensors are done, you will only notice this when you stand still with your car.
put it in DRIVE and hit the pedal to the metal, gearshifting from from 1st to 2nd will be very violent!!
the rest of the gears shifts smooth.
it's too bad euro C43's never had the check engine light therefore you will not know when and if the o2 sensors are dead?
Bosch company says they last 100000 miles = 16000 mil, that's BS!
they fail b4 100000 miles.
you have 2 of them o2 sensors.
i foggot about belt tensioner, this is also a good thing to replace if you have the old style tensioner with a centre bolt sticking out?
when your o2 sensors are done, you will only notice this when you stand still with your car.
put it in DRIVE and hit the pedal to the metal, gearshifting from from 1st to 2nd will be very violent!!
the rest of the gears shifts smooth.
it's too bad euro C43's never had the check engine light therefore you will not know when and if the o2 sensors are dead?
Bosch company says they last 100000 miles = 16000 mil, that's BS!
they fail b4 100000 miles.
you have 2 of them o2 sensors.
i foggot about belt tensioner, this is also a good thing to replace if you have the old style tensioner with a centre bolt sticking out?
Found all the parts connected to the polybelt including the belt tensioner and waterpump for 240 euro
Now ill just see if im the man to change it all hehe... i gonna need soom tools aswell i recon...
I think with these parts im up to 800 euro allready on spent parts... and thats excluding the tranny oil change which i dont dare to swap myself considering the cost of the potential dmg i could inflict if done wrong..
i hope you know what you're doing if you replace engine parts yourself!
front of the engine is tight as hell.
don't touch the transmission yourself , go to a MB specialist shop and they will do it for you.
do you know if your MAF was ever changed, this part is also very common to go bad giving your car slow performance and bad idling.
stick with Bosch original
do you know if your MAF was ever changed, this part is also very common to go bad giving your car slow performance and bad idling.
stick with Bosch original
Some work got done today..
Ive changed the broken headlight and replaced both of the xenon bulbs,
I started with the oil change of the engine but got stuck at rounding the oil plug since it was tightend to hard / corroeded.
So my plan is to either get a small gas burner to heat up the bolt and hopefully it will come off.
Ive also tried replacing the fuelfilter but the rust got the best of me this time aswell as i couldent just cut the damn bolt since i didnt have any replacements.
But to my surprice whilst inspecting the car from underneat i found out that it has bilstein shocks and springs
Also the carpets were thrown out the amg ones, as they were done and replaced with regular rubber ones.
Hopefully for the weekend ill finish up the oil change and insert the new air filter, fuel filter, and spark plugs.
Regarding the swap of the transmission fluids ive thought it thru and the best ive come up with so far is that i gonna keep it intact as is of now. But ill have it checked while i change the plugs. By the way does anyone know how many liters it should be? I went to the star dealer today and got the type confirmed, its mercedes own brand, but it sure looked like Castrol. The type is ATF.134
And according to them it should be approximately 7 liters, and didnt seem like an exact measurement when i looked on the screen he showed me. First time fill up is 8-9 liters and when swapped it should be 7 liters. Can anyone confirm?
Ill attach some pictures.
(im aware of the new filter being put in before the oilchange ill simply get a new one )
Before going in the workshop
Before going in the workshop
New fitment of the headlight glass
Greased up the edges of the glass in hopes of keeping it free from humidity
One coil/cylinder was covered in a bit of oil... any concerns?
Picture of the fitment of the new oilfilter
Picture of the fitment of the fuelfilter... looked like its never been changed
Washed up with new headlight
the condition of the rims is just horrible, ill see if i can make something of the when i get the summer rims on
98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
Welcome!
In regards to the ATF, the amount depends on whether you drain the torque converter. I believe it is around 4 liters without the torque converter and then you need 7-8 liters if you also drain the torque converter. You need to get a transmission dipstick tool as there is no dipstick in the transmission. You use that to determine the exact fill amount.
In regards to the ATF, the amount depends on whether you drain the torque converter. I believe it is around 4 liters without the torque converter and then you need 7-8 liters if you also drain the torque converter. You need to get a transmission dipstick tool as there is no dipstick in the transmission. You use that to determine the exact fill amount.
incl. torque converter is it total of 8 litres of ATF oil for 722.631 transmission?
when you flush the transmission and TQ-C, do you use ATF oil to wash the transmission internals?
Do you then drain and waste 8L of brand new ATF oil when flushing the trans. system?
after the flush, replacing with another new 8L ATF?
this is an expensive procedure.
98 C43, 15 Alfa 4C LE, 18 Tesla Model 3 DM Perf, 08 Duc S1000, 02 Duc 998, 98 Duc 748, 01 Miata
Originally Posted by kowalski
incl. torque converter is it total of 8 litres of ATF oil for 722.631 transmission?
when you flush the transmission and TQ-C, do you use ATF oil to wash the transmission internals?
Do you then drain and waste 8L of brand new ATF oil when flushing the trans. system?
after the flush, replacing with another new 8L ATF?
this is an expensive procedure.
Should be 7-8 TOTAL if you drain the torque converter. I'm not sure on the flush, I had the dealer do that.
I'll look up my receipt when I get home and see what all they charged me for.
Last edited by ECTurboGSX; 01-16-2015 at 04:17 PM.
01-12-2015, 02:59 PM
