Alignment spec.
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Alignment spec.
I just finished installing my kmac kit and im ready to tow the car to a shop for alignment. The car is pretty low(see pic below) so im not sure what to tell them. Should I have them bring is back to stock spec or would a custom alignment be better for my car?
Any help guys? I know most of you here are lowered.
I dont track the car and dont need it to rail corners. I just want as close to perfect ride as possible..
Any help guys? I know most of you here are lowered.
I dont track the car and dont need it to rail corners. I just want as close to perfect ride as possible..
#4
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Its always been this low. There shouldnt be any issues bringing it to stock spec but not sure if thats best for my stance.
See sig for suspension and i run no pads in front
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#8
Super Member
Your alignment tech if good will be able to make it as good as he can, unfortunately you will not have the same geometry as stock ie your steering/suspension arms angles will be far outside the standard setup, due to the nature of the steering arm vs toe under compression you may find you can only minimise the tracking you have, not remove it entirely. Your tire wear should improve a lot though with less camber/caster. hopefully it goes well for you make sure they don't swing the alignment gear into the guard when checking caster
#9
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Your alignment tech if good will be able to make it as good as he can, unfortunately you will not have the same geometry as stock ie your steering/suspension arms angles will be far outside the standard setup, due to the nature of the steering arm vs toe under compression you may find you can only minimise the tracking you have, not remove it entirely. Your tire wear should improve a lot though with less camber/caster. hopefully it goes well for you make sure they don't swing the alignment gear into the guard when checking caster
I have the "porsche guru" working on the alignment today. Hopefully hell be able to dial it in nicely. I removed the front bumper to make it easier
#10
Senior Member
i need to post my most recent alignment specs, but so busy and always forget.
#12
Senior Member
cant say much yet, only drove the car about 7 miles since it was installed 2 weeks ago, been cold again and raining and even a little snow in michigan this past 10 days. Also replacing pads and rotors now.
might do an autocross this weekend, and its a 90 mile drive to get there, so should know more after that.
might do an autocross this weekend, and its a 90 mile drive to get there, so should know more after that.
#13
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So the kmac kit only allowed for .6 adjustment on the camber settings.
I went from -2.6 to -2.0.
I dont know much about allignment but i was definetly expecting more.
My car drives a lot better but its mostly because the caster was bumped up. The wheels look like they are not in the center if you pay closer attention, they are closer to the front of the car.....not really happy with the way it is.
Ill post my alignment sheet in a bit but can anyone else comment and let me know it this sounds about right
I went from -2.6 to -2.0.
I dont know much about allignment but i was definetly expecting more.
My car drives a lot better but its mostly because the caster was bumped up. The wheels look like they are not in the center if you pay closer attention, they are closer to the front of the car.....not really happy with the way it is.
Ill post my alignment sheet in a bit but can anyone else comment and let me know it this sounds about right
#15
Super Member
You're going to wear your tires out with over 2 degrees negative camber. If anything you want less camber than factory with those bigger wheels as they roll over less with less sidewall. If that's all the adjustment there is then that's all there is and you'll have to live with it if you need it to be that low. Watch your inner edges though because they'll go first when the rest of your tire is fine.
#16
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Im ok with tire wear. Tires last me pretty long considering that my car is so low.
Im just not happy that the wheels had to be pushed forward. Im gonna take it back and realign it.
Hopefully he can put the caster back to normal without effecting the camber. I have no idea what im talking about here for the most part but i definetly dont like the look right now. I wanna put my fender liners back in and the way the wheels are aligned right now does not allow for that. It would rub big time
Im just not happy that the wheels had to be pushed forward. Im gonna take it back and realign it.
Hopefully he can put the caster back to normal without effecting the camber. I have no idea what im talking about here for the most part but i definetly dont like the look right now. I wanna put my fender liners back in and the way the wheels are aligned right now does not allow for that. It would rub big time
#17
Super Member
The castor did get bumped up a lot which is likely why the wheels are in a different position in the wheelwell.
What I find is kind of strange is how the castor changed so much. If both adjusters for the lower control arms were moved the same amount inward, then the castor should have changed very little, and that is how you'd want to do it for maximum camber correction to get closer to spec. It is almost like he only moved the front adjuster inward as this would account for a slight camber change but a much larger castor change.
Its impossible to say for certain without seeing the bolts and how they are set currently though, It's all just speculation as to what you can do without knowing the bolt positions. Maybe the rear adjuster was already maxxed out and couldn't be moved further for all I know and only the front one was able to be adjusted.
What I find is kind of strange is how the castor changed so much. If both adjusters for the lower control arms were moved the same amount inward, then the castor should have changed very little, and that is how you'd want to do it for maximum camber correction to get closer to spec. It is almost like he only moved the front adjuster inward as this would account for a slight camber change but a much larger castor change.
Its impossible to say for certain without seeing the bolts and how they are set currently though, It's all just speculation as to what you can do without knowing the bolt positions. Maybe the rear adjuster was already maxxed out and couldn't be moved further for all I know and only the front one was able to be adjusted.
#18
Senior Member
umm, maybe this is obvious but should it be pointed out that on the spec sheet its listed as a w208 CLK55? if the mechanic was adjusting based off CLK55 factory specs this could make a big difference if they are not the same factory spec range as the C43 w202.
I will post my alignment spec on here tonight, though we are in 2 different situtaions, my car is probably an inch higher than yours and i wanted MORE camber for racing. yours is slammed and you want less camber for daily driving.
that being said i know they alignment guy at my shop was religiously tied to the factory spec even though i tried to tell him i was making this adjustment for the track and autocross and that i dont drive the car all that much else. so if your guy was also really trying to stick to factory spec and the w208 55 is not the same as C43 then it could be all goofy.
I will post my alignment spec on here tonight, though we are in 2 different situtaions, my car is probably an inch higher than yours and i wanted MORE camber for racing. yours is slammed and you want less camber for daily driving.
that being said i know they alignment guy at my shop was religiously tied to the factory spec even though i tried to tell him i was making this adjustment for the track and autocross and that i dont drive the car all that much else. so if your guy was also really trying to stick to factory spec and the w208 55 is not the same as C43 then it could be all goofy.
#19
Super Member
Guys,
CLK55 alignment specs is same as C43, except rear axel ever so slightly lower because of the different springs in some countries,this is not adjustable but geometry is same so CLK55 has slightly more stock rear camber than C43.
PJ,
The front toe seems a bit high, did they use a toe press when setting that value?
CLK55 alignment specs is same as C43, except rear axel ever so slightly lower because of the different springs in some countries,this is not adjustable but geometry is same so CLK55 has slightly more stock rear camber than C43.
PJ,
The front toe seems a bit high, did they use a toe press when setting that value?
#20
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Thread Starter
Thanks for input guys.
Im ot completely sure what was used but it was done at a shop so i would assume all the necessary tools were available.
I do need to get the car realigned anyway since it pulls to the right slightly so i will bring everything you guys said to my friends attantion.
Car drives so much better tho. It doesnt wander around and it feels a lot more solid while going over bumps and rough surfaces.
I would be perfectly happy if the castor setting wasnt causing the front wheels to move forward so much. Im hoping it can be put back without compromising the current ride quality
Im ot completely sure what was used but it was done at a shop so i would assume all the necessary tools were available.
I do need to get the car realigned anyway since it pulls to the right slightly so i will bring everything you guys said to my friends attantion.
Car drives so much better tho. It doesnt wander around and it feels a lot more solid while going over bumps and rough surfaces.
I would be perfectly happy if the castor setting wasnt causing the front wheels to move forward so much. Im hoping it can be put back without compromising the current ride quality
#21
Senior Member
Hi all
Ill be getting my aliment done soon ready for the ring. I be hoping for between 2.5 to 3 degrees negative camber for the front with caster being quite central to slightly wheel forward trying to avoid rubbing.
I don't have Kmac on the rear but my car is low on the rear with no rubbing at all so hopefully the rear camber will be around 2 degrees negative ill just get slight toe in on rear
Ill be getting my aliment done soon ready for the ring. I be hoping for between 2.5 to 3 degrees negative camber for the front with caster being quite central to slightly wheel forward trying to avoid rubbing.
I don't have Kmac on the rear but my car is low on the rear with no rubbing at all so hopefully the rear camber will be around 2 degrees negative ill just get slight toe in on rear
#23
Senior Member
all,
here is my alignment spec with kmacs, euro springs and bilstein sport shocks.
note the guy at my shop was really hesitant to go far out of stock factory recommended settings, but notice on my sheet the W202 c class is the marker while on PJmak its the w208 CLK... and the factory spec is different according to the sheets specified range for front camber is 0.0 to neg 0.7* whereas on his sheet the CLK says target is -1.14 with 0.5 range either way? thats a big difference in target spec, almost a full degree from the middle of each range.
here is my alignment spec with kmacs, euro springs and bilstein sport shocks.
note the guy at my shop was really hesitant to go far out of stock factory recommended settings, but notice on my sheet the W202 c class is the marker while on PJmak its the w208 CLK... and the factory spec is different according to the sheets specified range for front camber is 0.0 to neg 0.7* whereas on his sheet the CLK says target is -1.14 with 0.5 range either way? thats a big difference in target spec, almost a full degree from the middle of each range.
Last edited by Dziner82; 05-04-2015 at 01:27 PM. Reason: wrong camber note
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Which specific model w202 is that? It just says 94-2000 c class
Either way your car is a lot higher so it shouldnt be a problem at all to get it where you want it
This is what my front looks like now. How obvious is the bumped up castor? Would you be able to live with this? Maybe im overreacting.....it did eliminate almost all the rubbing
Either way your car is a lot higher so it shouldnt be a problem at all to get it where you want it
This is what my front looks like now. How obvious is the bumped up castor? Would you be able to live with this? Maybe im overreacting.....it did eliminate almost all the rubbing
#25
Senior Member
Which specific model w202 is that? It just says 94-2000 c class
Either way your car is a lot higher so it shouldnt be a problem at all to get it where you want it
This is what my front looks like now. How obvious is the bumped up castor? Would you be able to live with this? Maybe im overreacting.....it did eliminate almost all the rubbing
Either way your car is a lot higher so it shouldnt be a problem at all to get it where you want it
This is what my front looks like now. How obvious is the bumped up castor? Would you be able to live with this? Maybe im overreacting.....it did eliminate almost all the rubbing
haha, just kidding, i know im in the minority here with my C43 not being slammed.
Last edited by Dziner82; 05-05-2015 at 03:02 PM. Reason: typo