PJmak

Any tips for someone who hasnt done this before.

Im doing my oil change this weekend and my oil pan needs to be resealed as well.

I havent done this before so i wanted to see if someone can give me some dos and donts.

How much do i torque the screws, best cleaning methods and stuff like that...

edwonger

I'm interested on this too.

KJI3jflarryfe93

you CAN NOT overtight bolt on oilpan you will crack it.
aluminium material is weak!!

vinceC

It is pretty simple. The sealant residue is minimal. Don't use a scraper or a knife. Use silicone sealant remover if you can find it. Permatex used to market it but it seems scarce lately. Careful use of a scuff pad is an alternative. Use the M-B silicone. Apply it exactly as shown in the attachment. There is nothing to be gained from applying a lot of torque.

One caution - I have chased leaks on this engine and none came from the pan, even though I thought it did. I pulled and resealed the pan twice with no improvement. Clean the entire front seal area, pan, oil cooler and test port areas and make absolutely certain it is the pan. Leaks from the front seal can appear to be the pan leaking.

SCN_0035.pdf

edwonger

Is there a lot of stuff to remove in order to get the top oil pan off? Any suggestion would be great. Thanks in advance

vinceC

I looked at that possibility but came to the conclusion it is an engine out job.

edwonger

Thanks vinceC for the help. I guess I'll just let it continue to seep. If I need to take the engine out to just reseal it, I my as well drop in a e55 engine in it haha.

PJmak

Thanks for input guys. I wasnt able to tackle this since its been very hot this weekend.

My oil pan leaks on the very bottom smaller section which has the drain plug on it. I dont think the engine needs to come out in order to reseal that section does it?

edwonger

You should be fine with the smaller one cause it doesnt look like there anything blocking it. In my case, my larger one is leaking

vinceC

No. It is an easy job with just the front of the car raised. The upper, main section is a different story.

DRBC43AMG

Anything related to transmission needs to be surgical clean. Doing work outside may not be the ideal thing with blowing dust etc. Just my 2c's....

You can also take some time to view these instructive videos
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...ml#post6401349

vinceC

Transmission? I thought this discussion was about the lower section of the engine oil pan. Cleanliness is the rule there also.

DRBC43AMG

Oups yes you're right. Guess I need to clean my glasses...

Pagz

As mentioned earlier, Follow the bead spec and location religiously.. You will notice the lower part downwards face has a few small round recess's and the upward face does not, if you apply the sealant to the upwards face which I assume most people do, than be carful it doesn't alighn with any of the recess's otherwise it will leak

with MB 50ml canister you really need matching MB corking gun.

vinceC

I have been carefully fitting the M-B caulking tube into a standard (US) caulking gun. It works just fine.

PJmak

Does anyone have the instructions on the order in which the bolts have to go back in. I heard you cant just randomly throw them back up, they habe to be tightened in a certain order

vinceC

The WIS does not specify any specific sequence.

Pagz

Yes sure can be done with regular corking gun just not as easily,I realized how much better the real deal is after trying it,i'd never go back.

As said there is no tightening sequence just do all up finger tight first then torque to spec. Also,try hard to avoid accidently letting the sealant separate once contact has been made, can be a bit tricky with one hand on the pan and the other trying to find bolt holes

PJmak

Ok thanks for all the tips guys. Will finally tackle this over the weekend.

Was on vacation this last week and my school started yesterday