peppyhead

hey guys, I changed the oil etc and it seems to run good (as I mentioned in my previous thread) but I always smell like oil and gas on my clothes etc when I go home. You can smell it when I'm there (cars in a different location for me to work on).
I haven't driven it since the proper intakes , oil changed, and air filters were swapped but I went there today and it still smells like it's running very rich, almost like it's a carbureted car.

i am hoping that it will just go away eventually EOG all the stuff I did but not sure. Now I know it's not that big of a deal (or it's not a serious issue) but it will be hard for me to take it to work when the weather gets nicer and all my dress clothes smell when I get there.

ideas on what it could be? O2 se sors, plugs?

thanks for all your help again.

DRBC43AMG

I guess if your car is sitting in the garage and not driven on the road, it's going to take a long time to get really hot. You need to get on the streets and drive for at least 1/2h minimum to heat all the mechanics. Only after will it smell sweeter

peppyhead

Yeah that is what I figured. I do think I will change the plugs/wires and that should def help.

KJI3jflarryfe93

bad o2 sensors won't read the exhausts properly.

not sure if bad 02 sensors causes car to smell like unburned fuel as you probably have 4x sensors to smoothen one of the fawlty sensors.
in eürope we only have 2x sensors in the front, rears are plugged.
but I know they will cause crazy shifting in D-mode between 1st-2nd gear when you do fast take off from standstill.

W202AMG

Do you mean like hit rev limiter before it shifts to 2nd?

Mine doesnt do that from standing start anymore, but will do it from a 30kph roll kick down to first.

Ive got two new Bosch 02s and a new fuel pump to fit.

5 new injectors are here, waiting on the rest, ive got 5 that leak even after ultrasonic clean. Starts like s*** after sitting for a couple hours.

peppyhead

I guess these are all valid points. Only thing I can do is go to my local shop (who I trust) and get him to hook it up to the machines to see.

That being said I don't have any error codes or anything on my dash? Would I normally if there was a faulty sensor? What about plugs, they could also be a reason?

KJI3jflarryfe93

if you are at the red lite waiting for green light, you have gear selector in D-mode, you hit the axxelerator with your heavy right foot for a fast run, tranny will hesitate upshift from 1st to 2nd gear and it will go with a BANG!
you have to let go off the axxelerator drop the speed and 2nd gear will go in smoother instead of a HARSH upshift!
3rd to 5th gear upshifts are smooth, it's only 1st to 2nd gear that shifts violent!
this erratic shifting is caused by a poopy o2 sensor!
replacing bad o2 sensor and your car will thank you.

if you don't have the CEL lamp in cluster your car only have 2x o2 sensors in the front, the primary sensors, rear o2 sensors is missing on euro cars

W202AMG

Not always, you will get a light for a faulty sensor, but not for an old worn out one because the computer thinks it is still working.

This is why you cant live life by the diagnostic trouble codes and not have some knowlegde of how the system works.

W202AMG

No ive never had it shift like that. It hits rev limiter, but thats all.

The secondary O2 sensors do absolutely nothing for engine management, which is why theyre not fitted to Euro spec cars. They are only there for the purpose of emissions monitoring and more so to ensure the cats are functioning correctly. I used to program them out of the system on 94+ Corvettes so they would not set OBD2 DTCs. If they are faulty or missing, they will have absolutely no impact on the way the engine runs.

KJI3jflarryfe93

maybe you have a bad MAF on your car it hits rev limiter

W202AMG

MAF is fine, has been replaced.

Bad MAF will also make engine run very under powered up to 3,000-3,500rpm when you put your foot down, then give a sudden surge of power.

Was not aware that being in D or being in 4 made any difference!

W202AMG

Ill add a bit more to this thread, because ive swapped out a lot of parts in the past couple months. It might help in some ways to see what has and has not made a difference to my car, almost every part was factory fitted original ( MAF replaced 40,000klms ago, known faulty, so not listed here. )

Parts swapped:
• O2s
• rocker cover gaskets
• breather hoses
• breather hose fitting
• coolant temp sensor
• crank position sensor
• cam position sensor.
• plug leads
• rebuilt injectors
• throttle pedal position sensor
• serpentine belt
• timing chain tensioner


The O2s were working, but were originals, replacing with new genuine Bosch made a difference to smoothness.

New leads are genuine Bosch OEM correct set, so all the letters match up to what is on the rocker covers and lengths are correct. Made no noticable change to normal driving, but seems more powerful at WOT.

New coolant temp sensor, cam position sensor, and crank position sensor. No difference at all, but there was no issue with those anyway, factory fitted parts, replaced with genuine OEM.

Replaced injectors, genuine originals, rebuilt and well tested. Made a difference to cold starts because 5 of my originals were leaking and could not be corrected.

Rocker cover gaskets, clean crank case breather, replaced all 3 little rubber hoses as well as the rubber adaptor that fits into the top of the throttle body. Gaskets were ok, but old, breather sections were leaking and resealed. Hoses were old and hard. Fitting in top of thottle body was rock hard. Genuine OEM gaskets, mix of Meyle and Febi for hoses and fitting in throttle body. Improved idle and off-idle smoothness.

Throttle pedal position sensor. Genuine Hella, which is identical to the factory fitted OEM unit i removed. Improved throttle linearity at low throttle positions.

Replaced serpentine belt. No difference, nothing wrong with old one.

Replaced timing chain tensioner. Made the very minor rattle in the timing chain go away. Genuine from dealer. No difference to how engine ran.

Liqui-Moly petrol engine intake de-carb. Initially noticed engine smoother idle and quicker starting. Seems to have made the engine rev up quicker and easier, more top end power, noticable improvement, however the intake was reasonably clean, it made a difference.

Liqui-Moly engine detox. You pour this into oil and idle for ten minutes prior to changing. Fixed lifter ticking on start up, and made engine smoother and quieter. The reason i did this was to flush out the build up caused by Fuchs oil, the guy i was getting to service the car was using it, and it seems strangely ironic that both my C43 and E55 developed the same lifter tick at start up around 2,000-3,000klms after Fuchs was put in. Back to Mobil 1, which i always specified before.

W202AMG

While there is no point guessing and throwing parts at cars blindly hoping to fix a problem, and i dont suggest anyone do this, but in my case the car ran quite fine anyway.

The fact it has as done 165,000klms and is now 18 years old, something is bound to fail sooner or later, so i replaced almost everything.

Its not a bad move in my case, because i know what has been replaced, and how long it all lasted, as well as what original parts still work so i have usable spares if i do have a failure.

As a result, the car is tight as a drum and drives like a new one.

So im not about to suggest anyone do what i did, but if you do, you know exactly where you stand with it all.

peppyhead

Well just ordered all 4 Bosch o2 sensors from rock auto.

Hopefully will do the trick!

W202AMG

Why 4?

You only need 2.

As i explained earlier, only the front 2 sensors do anything of value. The secondary O2 sensors are only there to satisfy the computer that the primary cats are fitted and functional.

The secondary O2 sensors WILL NOT IN ANY WAY AFFECT THE RUNNING OF THE ENGINE. They do not have any influence on air/fuel ratio. Unless you have a code for a faulty sensor, dont replace them, and even if you do, use one of the fronts in its place when you replace those.

You are wasting money buying 4 oxygen sensors when the secondaries do nothing of value.

The primary O2 sensors should only be replaced with Bosch, part numbers for direct OEM replacements are 0258005088 and 0258005090. Should cost you no more than about $60-$70 USD each delivered to you door.

peppyhead

So I'm assuming the ones to replace are the upstream right and left sensors then, and leave the downstream ones alone?

W202AMG

Yep, absolutely correct