_AMG_

I'm at 14k miles, been getting loud brake squeaking, especially at low speeds.
Any of you guys experience this at around 14k miles?
Thinking about changing the brake pads but looking for alternative solutions also.
Thanks

boost420

Akebono ceramic euro pads. Amazing grip, low dust and no noise.

_AMG_

Thanks.
Would you happen to know if they make anything for the C63?

_AMG_

Any one using Carbotech pads?
They have the front and rear pads but don't know much about them.

Merc63

Mine have always been noisy at low speeds since new...

I just bought some Porterfield RS4 pads. I'm installing them tomorrow on the same rotors, ill let you know if they make any noise.

_AMG_

Awesome!
Please let me know how they are.
How much for a set?

yazid

now this is interesting.. let us know what are good third party brake pads for the cars we drive.. yeah mine squeaks just as bad too..

hhughes1

For those successfully using aftermarket pads, part numbers would be very helpful. Carbotech makes a great product but they may need your originals to scrape and use the backing plate which is not very convenient.

_AMG_

Hey Yazid,
Ya, its pretty annoying, the more I drive the louder it gets.
Sounds like somebody is scratching a chalk board. lol

Thanks for the input.
Just might go with OEM pads.
If I can find aftermarket pads for a better price that fits, ill post up the part number.

DD GT3 RD

typically its brake dust build up, go on the freeway and do a bunch of repeated stops from 100+ down to a low speed.

My car squeaks as well, only at low speed coming to a stop mostly. This is nothing compared to my GT3 which sounded like there was a dying hyena inside the car!

_AMG_

Thanks for the advice brotha! Ill try it out today to see if it improves.

Muskoka_AMG

I'm using carbotech pads, and they've been very good so far.

1520's for the street.
Xp10's for the track.

The 1520's are very quiet, and make very little dust. So far I've been very happy with them. However, as originally alluded to, Carbotech may not have the backing plates. Sometimes they do, and sometimes they don't. Send them an e-mail, as their customer service is pretty good.

DD GT3 RD

I used do this every few days in my porsche.

In the C after every track day they are silent for a good amount of time. Just get up to speed and brake as hard as possible, then I usually let off around 40 get back up to speed 100+ repeat about 5 or 6 times.

Also when you get your car wash ask them not to use tire shine/rim polisher or if they do to make sure it doesnt get on the brakes. It leaves a coat on them and causes more noise as well. I did a lot of research on this subject when I had my porsche cause it drove me nuts. I dont mind it in this car cause its quiet in comparison.

_AMG_

Thanks alot!
I will send them an E-mail to see what they say.

Thanks alot Sammy, this was very helpful.
Gonna go easy on the tire shine from now on. lol

Merc63

My pads are Porterfield RS4 I got them from formymercedes.com from Jerry. They were 425 USD delivered to Canada.

I was recommend them by a member on here. Supposedly they are good and cheaper then stock....

_AMG_

$425 for all 4 corners?

Mort

$403 plus shipping on ForMyMercedes site: http://www.formymercedes.com/porterfield2.asp

Same price for C63 with PP.


Porterfield R4S Pads available for Mercedes C63 with PP series

Vehicle Front Pads Rear Pads Front & Rear Pads Mercedes
2008-2010
C63 with PP
With Performance Package Price: $274

Price: $129

Price: $403 ($274 + $129) Plus Shipping

"Silencer" brake noise kit is included at no charge with purchase of Porterfield Brake Pads. Silencer Kit includes: Rotor Soap, Silencer rotor conditioner, Pastelub high temperature lubricant and instructions - "6 Steps to Quiet Brakes". If no brake pads are purchased, the "Silencer" is priced at $19.95.

bhamg

I think proper bedding-in when new mostly eliminates the chances of developing brake squeal with OE pads. Bedding may or may not help you...you might need to do something first like installing a highly abrasive race pad to scrape off existing pad residue prior to the bedding session. I bedded-in mine according to the direction below and have never had any noise-related issues. I actually like some braking noise that is proportional to pedal pressure but there is just little of that in the OE system. The following treatise is the most widely quoted bedding FAQ out there so courtesy of Stoptech:

Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Bedding-in Performance Brake Systems

by Matt Weiss of StopTech and James Walker, Jr. of scR motorsports


When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.

The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.

The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are ‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.

The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed. There's one exception, however. Some pad manufacturers sell ‘race-ready' pads, which have been pre-conditioned by flame heat-treating or laser etching, to provide a mature surface on the pad face. If race-ready pads are being used, then the second set of controlled stops is unnecessary. Also note that the same circumstances exist when a system to be bedded has new rotors and used pads (a strategy that professional teams use to break in their rotors ahead of time) one only has to perform a single set of stops to transfer pad material uniformly onto the new rotor.

Note that, if the brakes of a vehicle with high-performance or racing pads are not used continuously in an aggressive manner, the transfer layer on the rotors can be abraded (literally worn off). However, the transfer layer can be re-established, if needed, by repeating one series of stops in the bed-in procedure. This process may be repeated as often as necessary during the life of the pad.

This characteristic is useful when a system is already bedded-in with one pad friction and another is to be used going forward, like when changing between pad types for the street and track (and then after a track event, back again). The procedure under this case is different, where the new friction is installed and the vehicle is first driven for 5 to 20 miles (8 to 33 Km) with light use, keeping the pad friction and rotor cold. This promotes the abrasive friction mechanism cleaning the rotor surface of the previous pad material before performing either one or two bed-in cycles as prescribed below. One set of stops as outlined, if the pads being installed are used, two if the pads are actually new

The bed-in procedures below outline the steps required to effectively bed-in performance brake systems. We strongly recommend that, in order to complete the bed-in safely, the bed-in procedures be conducted in dry conditions on a race track or other controlled environment, so as not to endanger yourself or others. Please note that we neither recommend nor condone driving at high speeds on public roads. While it is important to get enough heat into the system to effectively bed-in the brakes, it is even more important to exercise common sense at all times, and to conduct the bed-in procedure responsibly.

Bedding-in Street-Performance Pads

For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads

For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.

We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.

After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.

In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.

_AMG_

Thanks for the link man, greatly appreciated!

_AMG_

Bhamg thanks for the bedding-in instructions.
Ill follow up on the 10 stop procedure when I get the pads to ensure the brakes wont squeal.

_AMG_

DD GT3 RD, I took your advice and the brake squeak has considerably subsided.
Thanks for the help brotha.

DD GT3 RD

Nice, glad it went away a bit. So maybe do more and make sure your are hard enough on the brakes where the abs should just be kicking in, means you are right past max braking so you could go a little lighter. (not sure if you have tracked your car but many dont know what full braking is, dont mean anything by it).

_AMG_

Ya, not 100% gone but better then before.

Lol no worries man, haven't been to the track but when its 5-6AM at the crest and no ones around its the closest thing I can get to a track.

YellowJacket

I have this same problem. Brakes sound like a school bus stopping. Embarrassing, but is there really anything that will cure this besides new pads? My brakes and rotors are in solid shape.