M156 head bolt problems
#926
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Calgary, Canada
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2012 C63 AMG
I have not heard of any FL (LCI) cars with head bolt issues. It is not unusual to have the coolant go down a little over time. It happened to our R Class diesel quite a few times and to my 2010 C63 a couple of times with no other issues.
I always recommend adding a 50/50 mix of distilled water and MB coolant in the same colour that is in your cooling system. This will maintain the properties of the OEM coolant in your engine which is 240,000 km or 15 years. If you add straight water (distilled or not) or other brands of coolant this coolant change interval is no longer valid and the coolant should be changed much sooner.
I always recommend adding a 50/50 mix of distilled water and MB coolant in the same colour that is in your cooling system. This will maintain the properties of the OEM coolant in your engine which is 240,000 km or 15 years. If you add straight water (distilled or not) or other brands of coolant this coolant change interval is no longer valid and the coolant should be changed much sooner.
#927
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Chicagoland area
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2009 C63: <sold> '07 E63
I may be the next in line with headbolt issues. Started the car yesterday afternoon and it had a different sound. Left work and drove home (60 miles) and three miles from home I get the low coolant level warning. Drove right to MB and of course almost everyone was gone. They did add coolant saying it was half full and told me to come back Wednesday. I'm not moving the car until I take it in. Should I use an Indy or the MB dealer?
#928
Hi folks, trying to get a little clarity here.
Were the head bolt AND the combination of cast nodular iron camshafts and 9310 grade steel valve lifters issue both resolved post engine number #60658?
My engine number is 72157 so does that mean it definitely has the forged camshafts?
Was the lifter metallurgy changed at the same time as well?
S-B 05.20/20b mentions issues with the camshaft adjusters.
Do we know if MB ever made any changes to these or is the issue with them due to the soft cast camshafts rather than the camshaft adjusters them selves?
Anyway to tell if my motor has forged camshafts without pulling the valve covers off?
Were the head bolt AND the combination of cast nodular iron camshafts and 9310 grade steel valve lifters issue both resolved post engine number #60658?
My engine number is 72157 so does that mean it definitely has the forged camshafts?
Was the lifter metallurgy changed at the same time as well?
S-B 05.20/20b mentions issues with the camshaft adjusters.
Do we know if MB ever made any changes to these or is the issue with them due to the soft cast camshafts rather than the camshaft adjusters them selves?
Anyway to tell if my motor has forged camshafts without pulling the valve covers off?
#929
If the headbolts and lifters are replaced, will the M156 live a long and happy life? Is there any way to determine whether a particular car has had the headbolts and lifters replaced?
#931
#932
MBWorld Fanatic!
All 2010 and older and some early 2011s are affected. The 748 is not and the 981 is affected.
Regards,
Joe
#933
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southbay
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'86 190E, '93 CAMRY V6 XLE, '94 626-LXV6, '96 328is, '09 C350
#934
Member
To all you that changed out your head bolts one at a time, did anyone experience a snapped bolt in the process and have to pull the head off? I'm pulling the trigger on Weistec parts and doing the replacement myself. I'm at 45K miles and the head bolt thing is starting to eat into my driving enjoyment.
#935
MBWorld Fanatic!
Not affected.
Regards,
Joe
#936
#937
MBWorld Fanatic!
#942
Member
To the folks that have had the failure. Is coolant getting by the head gasket and into the cylinder or is it flowing up around the broken bolt into the cam gallery then mixing with oil or both.
#944
MBWorld Fanatic!
For what it's worth, mine is a 2010 E63 (UK/Euro model) and I checked the headbolts last weekend - happy to report that they're the revised ones.
And for good measure, the part number for the VVT gear
I'm not sure if it was done by a previous owner etc. I tried looking for the engine number down the back of the engine bay, but lost patience after 20 seconds of trying to get the right angle down there with my flash light.
And for good measure, the part number for the VVT gear
I'm not sure if it was done by a previous owner etc. I tried looking for the engine number down the back of the engine bay, but lost patience after 20 seconds of trying to get the right angle down there with my flash light.
#945
MBWorld Fanatic!
#946
MBWorld Fanatic!
For what it's worth, mine is a 2010 E63 (UK/Euro model) and I checked the headbolts last weekend - happy to report that they're the revised ones.
And for good measure, the part number for the VVT gear
I'm not sure if it was done by a previous owner etc. I tried looking for the engine number down the back of the engine bay, but lost patience after 20 seconds of trying to get the right angle down there with my flash light.
And for good measure, the part number for the VVT gear
I'm not sure if it was done by a previous owner etc. I tried looking for the engine number down the back of the engine bay, but lost patience after 20 seconds of trying to get the right angle down there with my flash light.
Just post or PM your VIN number and I'll give you the engine number.
#947
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yeah no, I felt bad and didn't want to trouble that Valve guy, so just figured I'd not ask
Thanks man, I will do
Thanks man, I will do
#948
MBWorld Fanatic!
Valvestud kindly confirmed my engine number to be:
156985 60 062884
Does this mean the vvti cam adjusters and cams are the revised ones too, or is it just a headbolt difference?
156985 60 062884
Does this mean the vvti cam adjusters and cams are the revised ones too, or is it just a headbolt difference?
#949
MBWorld Fanatic!
#950
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: México City
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2008 E63, KTM990, 2012 CLS63, 1972 W108 280SE 4.5
Just wanted to update on this issue. In the end, nobody did step up to assist, I did receive a 10% on the parts (total price for parts came to a cool 4,300 euros). The end price came out to be around $6,500. Now for something interesting: All was fixed and car runs well, no issues, expect..... over the course of the last 8 days the engine had made a very disturbing rattling noise when I turn it on. The noise (clack clack clack type) subsides after 3-4 seconds. Cannot say it happens only when the engine is cold or hot, as it has happens with both. garage tells me that the valve shafts will need about 600 miles until they are seated and that this is nothing to worry about. Well I am worried...Strange thing is that I cannot reproduce the noise by turning the car on / off. it just seems to happen arbitrarily. Any thoughts?
The noise is back and I found that the oil level was low.
Check your oil level