EBV, ABS, ESP inoperative see owners manual
10-14-2016, 08:35 AM
#26
MBWorld Fanatic!
More info below of what to try, but if it's a module fault code it's on the way out and will need to eventually be replaced. Unless you want to open it up and see if it's an obvious component failure.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...-steering.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...-steering.html
01-16-2017, 12:27 AM
#27
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Andy Garcia (07-19-2018)
05-07-2017, 07:11 PM
#32
Super Member
I think maybe the problem common to all the scenarios described above is that once ONE physical problem or ONE sensor problem occurs, it unfortunately results in anomalous readings for or by OTHER sensors or computer programs.
Simple example: One rear tire gets a slow leak puncture and its psi starts to fall. Here is what MIGHT happen as different systems react to the problem:
- TPMS reports a problem on the dash display because one rear tire is indeed at low psi
- The traction control system reports a problem because one wheel, the one with the low psi, is having to urn at faster rpm to keep the car moving in a straight line. This implies to the traction control system that there has been a traction loss because one rear wheel is turning at a different rpm than the other, while the car is moving in a straight line. The TC system tries to correct the situation by applying braking to the faster spinning wheel, and / or reducing power, but of course it cannot fix the mismatched rpm because the low psi tire is physically too small now, so it declares a foul and shuts down for safety reasons, and your "traction Control inoperative" (or other simialr message) appears on the dash display
- The TC system's unsuccessful efforts to correct the wheel rpm mismatch cause the ABS system to conclude that it too is in trouble, so it too shuts down and you get the "ABS inoperative" dashboard display.
All of this in this fictitious but plausable scenario occurs simply because there is truly only ONE physical problem - a low psi tire - but a mechanic who does not stop to think, or is simply lazy about doing common sense diagnostics, or wants to generate easy high paying work, declares you have a "sensor problem".
Another good example is the infamous headbolt problem. This si where on some pre-2011 C63s, one or more improperly manufactured engine headbolts fractures This manifests NOT as "You have a headbolt failure" (because there is no sensor for THAT!), but rather as the following sequence:
- "Low coolant" dash display (because the coolant is now leaking past the fractured headlbolt into either or both of the cylinder and engine oil supply
- "Oil level" dash display, because the oil level is not too LOW, but rather too HIGH, because the coolant in the oil is raising the level of the oil in the sump. The poor confused C63 owner checks his oil level and sees that it is "not low", or worse, adds a quart before even checking the dipstick. Ading oil of course does not help because (1) the oil level is now too HIGH and (2) all the oil in the world is of no help when diluted with coolant
- If the problem goes long enough before the owner figures out what has happened, the next dash display might be the engine light, with a fault code of "AFR problem" or similar, which makes sense since the oil and coolant mix is now getting into the cylinder(s) and being burned, and is confusing the narrow band O2 sensor in the exhaust terribly.
- BY this point, if neither the owner or a mechanic have figured out what is really going on, the engine is being permanently damaged and ultimately destroyed, but unfortunately there is no dash message that says "You ignored the symptoms of a headbolt failure so now your engine is toast".
The key n this types of situation is to recognize that the dash display is reporting consequential SYMPTOMS, not the root cause. A knowledgeable owner, or an experienced mechanic, will know how to use the mix of messages displayed to deduce what the possible CAUSE might be.
Jim G
Simple example: One rear tire gets a slow leak puncture and its psi starts to fall. Here is what MIGHT happen as different systems react to the problem:
- TPMS reports a problem on the dash display because one rear tire is indeed at low psi
- The traction control system reports a problem because one wheel, the one with the low psi, is having to urn at faster rpm to keep the car moving in a straight line. This implies to the traction control system that there has been a traction loss because one rear wheel is turning at a different rpm than the other, while the car is moving in a straight line. The TC system tries to correct the situation by applying braking to the faster spinning wheel, and / or reducing power, but of course it cannot fix the mismatched rpm because the low psi tire is physically too small now, so it declares a foul and shuts down for safety reasons, and your "traction Control inoperative" (or other simialr message) appears on the dash display
- The TC system's unsuccessful efforts to correct the wheel rpm mismatch cause the ABS system to conclude that it too is in trouble, so it too shuts down and you get the "ABS inoperative" dashboard display.
All of this in this fictitious but plausable scenario occurs simply because there is truly only ONE physical problem - a low psi tire - but a mechanic who does not stop to think, or is simply lazy about doing common sense diagnostics, or wants to generate easy high paying work, declares you have a "sensor problem".
Another good example is the infamous headbolt problem. This si where on some pre-2011 C63s, one or more improperly manufactured engine headbolts fractures This manifests NOT as "You have a headbolt failure" (because there is no sensor for THAT!), but rather as the following sequence:
- "Low coolant" dash display (because the coolant is now leaking past the fractured headlbolt into either or both of the cylinder and engine oil supply
- "Oil level" dash display, because the oil level is not too LOW, but rather too HIGH, because the coolant in the oil is raising the level of the oil in the sump. The poor confused C63 owner checks his oil level and sees that it is "not low", or worse, adds a quart before even checking the dipstick. Ading oil of course does not help because (1) the oil level is now too HIGH and (2) all the oil in the world is of no help when diluted with coolant
- If the problem goes long enough before the owner figures out what has happened, the next dash display might be the engine light, with a fault code of "AFR problem" or similar, which makes sense since the oil and coolant mix is now getting into the cylinder(s) and being burned, and is confusing the narrow band O2 sensor in the exhaust terribly.
- BY this point, if neither the owner or a mechanic have figured out what is really going on, the engine is being permanently damaged and ultimately destroyed, but unfortunately there is no dash message that says "You ignored the symptoms of a headbolt failure so now your engine is toast".
The key n this types of situation is to recognize that the dash display is reporting consequential SYMPTOMS, not the root cause. A knowledgeable owner, or an experienced mechanic, will know how to use the mix of messages displayed to deduce what the possible CAUSE might be.
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; 05-07-2017 at 07:14 PM.
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2013AMG (09-22-2020),
Adonay salgaido (01-12-2023),
cenopra (07-22-2023),
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LucianoC250 (01-31-2021)
11-15-2017, 10:49 AM
#33
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c250
Hello Everyone,
Had a similar issue to everyone here with my 2013 Mercedes C250 acquiring ABS and cruise control inoperative errors after my car sat for a couple of months while I was out of the country. I was thinking it was a battery issue at first as I had to jump it when I first got back, and the folks who I left the car to watch it also told me that was having to jump the car. I tested the battery though and the loads came back fine. After my mechanic reset the error dashboard, and the error was returning, they decided to try changing a speed sensor in the wheel. That did the trick. Cost of the speed sensor was about $40 ish bucks.
TLDR: After you confirm the battery is ok, try changing your speed sensor in your wheel.
Good luck!
Had a similar issue to everyone here with my 2013 Mercedes C250 acquiring ABS and cruise control inoperative errors after my car sat for a couple of months while I was out of the country. I was thinking it was a battery issue at first as I had to jump it when I first got back, and the folks who I left the car to watch it also told me that was having to jump the car. I tested the battery though and the loads came back fine. After my mechanic reset the error dashboard, and the error was returning, they decided to try changing a speed sensor in the wheel. That did the trick. Cost of the speed sensor was about $40 ish bucks.
TLDR: After you confirm the battery is ok, try changing your speed sensor in your wheel.
Good luck!
07-19-2018, 11:37 PM
#34
how did you get it fixed or would you pls tell me what caused that? thank you
07-20-2018, 06:16 AM
#35
Senior Member
It was just the alternator going out, so it wasn't charging the battery. Those lights came on since the car was about to die. New alternator, new battery & voltage regulator fixed everything.
11-07-2019, 02:39 PM
#36
Similar issue on my 2011 C300 4matic. Caused a no start issue, found water leak on driver side after heavy rain. Started to clean wires and now I have the ESC inop error and still no start/o crank issue. Where do I check next???
01-31-2021, 08:07 PM
#37
You make my day Jim G
I think maybe the problem common to all the scenarios described above is that once ONE physical problem or ONE sensor problem occurs, it unfortunately results in anomalous readings for or by OTHER sensors or computer programs.
Simple example: One rear tire gets a slow leak puncture and its psi starts to fall. Here is what MIGHT happen as different systems react to the problem:
- TPMS reports a problem on the dash display because one rear tire is indeed at low psi
- The traction control system reports a problem because one wheel, the one with the low psi, is having to urn at faster rpm to keep the car moving in a straight line. This implies to the traction control system that there has been a traction loss because one rear wheel is turning at a different rpm than the other, while the car is moving in a straight line. The TC system tries to correct the situation by applying braking to the faster spinning wheel, and / or reducing power, but of course it cannot fix the mismatched rpm because the low psi tire is physically too small now, so it declares a foul and shuts down for safety reasons, and your "traction Control inoperative" (or other simialr message) appears on the dash display
- The TC system's unsuccessful efforts to correct the wheel rpm mismatch cause the ABS system to conclude that it too is in trouble, so it too shuts down and you get the "ABS inoperative" dashboard display.
All of this in this fictitious but plausable scenario occurs simply because there is truly only ONE physical problem - a low psi tire - but a mechanic who does not stop to think, or is simply lazy about doing common sense diagnostics, or wants to generate easy high paying work, declares you have a "sensor problem".
Another good example is the infamous headbolt problem. This si where on some pre-2011 C63s, one or more improperly manufactured engine headbolts fractures This manifests NOT as "You have a headbolt failure" (because there is no sensor for THAT!), but rather as the following sequence:
- "Low coolant" dash display (because the coolant is now leaking past the fractured headlbolt into either or both of the cylinder and engine oil supply
- "Oil level" dash display, because the oil level is not too LOW, but rather too HIGH, because the coolant in the oil is raising the level of the oil in the sump. The poor confused C63 owner checks his oil level and sees that it is "not low", or worse, adds a quart before even checking the dipstick. Ading oil of course does not help because (1) the oil level is now too HIGH and (2) all the oil in the world is of no help when diluted with coolant
- If the problem goes long enough before the owner figures out what has happened, the next dash display might be the engine light, with a fault code of "AFR problem" or similar, which makes sense since the oil and coolant mix is now getting into the cylinder(s) and being burned, and is confusing the narrow band O2 sensor in the exhaust terribly.
- BY this point, if neither the owner or a mechanic have figured out what is really going on, the engine is being permanently damaged and ultimately destroyed, but unfortunately there is no dash message that says "You ignored the symptoms of a headbolt failure so now your engine is toast".
The key n this types of situation is to recognize that the dash display is reporting consequential SYMPTOMS, not the root cause. A knowledgeable owner, or an experienced mechanic, will know how to use the mix of messages displayed to deduce what the possible CAUSE might be.
Jim G
Simple example: One rear tire gets a slow leak puncture and its psi starts to fall. Here is what MIGHT happen as different systems react to the problem:
- TPMS reports a problem on the dash display because one rear tire is indeed at low psi
- The traction control system reports a problem because one wheel, the one with the low psi, is having to urn at faster rpm to keep the car moving in a straight line. This implies to the traction control system that there has been a traction loss because one rear wheel is turning at a different rpm than the other, while the car is moving in a straight line. The TC system tries to correct the situation by applying braking to the faster spinning wheel, and / or reducing power, but of course it cannot fix the mismatched rpm because the low psi tire is physically too small now, so it declares a foul and shuts down for safety reasons, and your "traction Control inoperative" (or other simialr message) appears on the dash display
- The TC system's unsuccessful efforts to correct the wheel rpm mismatch cause the ABS system to conclude that it too is in trouble, so it too shuts down and you get the "ABS inoperative" dashboard display.
All of this in this fictitious but plausable scenario occurs simply because there is truly only ONE physical problem - a low psi tire - but a mechanic who does not stop to think, or is simply lazy about doing common sense diagnostics, or wants to generate easy high paying work, declares you have a "sensor problem".
Another good example is the infamous headbolt problem. This si where on some pre-2011 C63s, one or more improperly manufactured engine headbolts fractures This manifests NOT as "You have a headbolt failure" (because there is no sensor for THAT!), but rather as the following sequence:
- "Low coolant" dash display (because the coolant is now leaking past the fractured headlbolt into either or both of the cylinder and engine oil supply
- "Oil level" dash display, because the oil level is not too LOW, but rather too HIGH, because the coolant in the oil is raising the level of the oil in the sump. The poor confused C63 owner checks his oil level and sees that it is "not low", or worse, adds a quart before even checking the dipstick. Ading oil of course does not help because (1) the oil level is now too HIGH and (2) all the oil in the world is of no help when diluted with coolant
- If the problem goes long enough before the owner figures out what has happened, the next dash display might be the engine light, with a fault code of "AFR problem" or similar, which makes sense since the oil and coolant mix is now getting into the cylinder(s) and being burned, and is confusing the narrow band O2 sensor in the exhaust terribly.
- BY this point, if neither the owner or a mechanic have figured out what is really going on, the engine is being permanently damaged and ultimately destroyed, but unfortunately there is no dash message that says "You ignored the symptoms of a headbolt failure so now your engine is toast".
The key n this types of situation is to recognize that the dash display is reporting consequential SYMPTOMS, not the root cause. A knowledgeable owner, or an experienced mechanic, will know how to use the mix of messages displayed to deduce what the possible CAUSE might be.
Jim G
Your fiction case was exactly mine, i had tire pressure miss matched in the rear by 5 psi, not enough for the tire pressure warning, but enough to make the wheel spin different and that was the root cause of my case of “abs and esp inoperative” just as you described in here
”
Simple example: One rear tire gets a slow leak puncture and its psi starts to fall. Here is what MIGHT happen as different systems react to the problem:
- TPMS reports a problem on the dash display because one rear tire is indeed at low psi
- The traction control system reports a problem because one wheel, the one with the low psi, is having to urn at faster rpm to keep the car moving in a straight line. This implies to the traction control system that there has been a traction loss because one rear wheel is turning at a different rpm than the other, while the car is moving in a straight line. The TC system tries to correct the situation by applying braking to the faster spinning wheel, and / or reducing power, but of course it cannot fix the mismatched rpm because the low psi tire is physically too small now, so it declares a foul and shuts down for safety reasons, and your "traction Control inoperative" (or other simialr message) appears on the dash display
- The TC system's unsuccessful efforts to correct the wheel rpm mismatch cause the ABS system to conclude that it too is in trouble, so it too shuts down and you get the "ABS inoperative" dashboard display.
All of this in this fictitious but plausable scenario occurs simply because there is truly only ONE physical problem - a low psi tire - but a mechanic who does not stop to think, or is simply lazy about doing common sense diagnostics, or wants to generate easy high paying work, declares you have a "sensor problem".
you are the greatest Jim you saved me from being robed at the mechanic 👨🔧
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cenopra (07-22-2023)
01-18-2022, 02:43 PM
#38
Low Key Fob Battery caused ABS/ESP/MIL light activated
I was shocked to see ABS and ESP light come on, despite not pulling my call out in the past week. The MIL light came on the next day.
I just read this response, and replaced my key fob batter immediately.
ABS and ESP light disappeared immediately.
I took the car for a short ride, and shortly after the MIL light went off.
Hoping that it stays off. I'll keep you posted.
01-18-2022, 02:46 PM
#40
I was shocked to see ABS and ESP light come on, despite not pulling my call out in the past week. The MIL light came on the next day.
I just read this response, and replaced my key fob batter immediately.
ABS and ESP light disappeared immediately.
I took the car for a short ride, and shortly after the MIL light went off.
Hoping that it stays off. I'll keep you posted.
01-19-2023, 06:40 AM
#41
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CL500
Chipping in with my ongoing experience here;
I picked up a 2008 CL500, which on the ~100 mile drive home, threw up this same error. Just before this came on, I noticed a relatively significant, repetitive, squeak, coming from the rear (I think). It was repeating in frequency with the wheels turning, which lead me to believe it's some form of brake/drivetrain matter. Not fun on a car you're just driving home after having inspected and purchasing.
Replaced the batteries (they were pretty dead anyway), and did the lock-to-lock reset, and the light went away. The squeak didn't go away, and when I drove the car a few times (but not often as I wanted this issue fixed before I do anything substantial with the car), I started to realise that it only squeaked after I'd been driving it a while, and squeaked a little more when I was applying the brakes (but there was still some squeak even when brakes weren't engaged). Then the warning came back; ABS & ESP inoperative, check owners manual.
One evening something VERY odd happened. I started the car (it was already warm, had been driven 30 mins before), pulled away, was doing about 20mph, when the car started accelerating of its own accord, without my foot on the accelerator. Not hard acceleration, but enough to notice. I put my foot on the brake hard, immediately, and ABS engaged and the car came to a stop, and the engine wasn't revving up. Odd. Let go of the brake, and it started accelerating on its own AGAIN! Same thing; brake, stop, but this time I switched it off and on again. No further issues driving home (nervously!). I thought okay, that's definitely a wheel speed sensor issue, but I'm not sure how.
So I got myself a code reader, plugged it in, no errors flagged. Damn.
It's only last night that I have realised, my code reader is not ABS capable! So that was a bit of a waste of time.
My plans, in order, to try and resolve it;
- Check all tyre pressures. The pre-purchase inspection spotted a tear in the front right tyre, but said this wasn't leaking. But maybe it is. It's very very slow, if it is, because I've had the car a while now and it still seems to have air in.
- Replace brake rotors and pads. Whilst I'm down there I'll also look at the wheel speed sensors and give them a wipe down, try to see if they're particularly gunked up. Also of course lubricate the guide pins, in the hope that these are currently not lubricated, and are causing the pads to stick to the rotors. Hopefully this will get rid of the squeak, but I have a feeling it won't get rid of the warning.
- Replace the batteries in the keys. One of these is fully dead, I know that, but I don't use that key so haven't encountered an issue.
- If I've still got warnings and squeaks, I'll have the car put on a code reader that actually _can_ read ABS issues. The dash warning might not be present at that moment, in which case I might have to buy my own, to have ready for when the warning next pops up. Hopefully then, it might tell me which (if any) wheel speed sensor is faulty, and I can replace just that one, rather than all four.
So my question to the forum at this stage; does any of my above story set off alarm bells for anyone? Especially that involuntary acceleration bit? It's not the first time I've driven a car that started accelerating on its own (though the last instance was far worse; a 190E 2.6, stuck at full throttle, heading towards a corner. Not an experience I want to repeat.), and so I'm very cautious about driving a 389bhp monster whilst it has a questionable brake system!
And does my plan of action sound sensible or is there something else I should be giving attention? Any advice would be appreciated greatly!
I picked up a 2008 CL500, which on the ~100 mile drive home, threw up this same error. Just before this came on, I noticed a relatively significant, repetitive, squeak, coming from the rear (I think). It was repeating in frequency with the wheels turning, which lead me to believe it's some form of brake/drivetrain matter. Not fun on a car you're just driving home after having inspected and purchasing.
Replaced the batteries (they were pretty dead anyway), and did the lock-to-lock reset, and the light went away. The squeak didn't go away, and when I drove the car a few times (but not often as I wanted this issue fixed before I do anything substantial with the car), I started to realise that it only squeaked after I'd been driving it a while, and squeaked a little more when I was applying the brakes (but there was still some squeak even when brakes weren't engaged). Then the warning came back; ABS & ESP inoperative, check owners manual.
One evening something VERY odd happened. I started the car (it was already warm, had been driven 30 mins before), pulled away, was doing about 20mph, when the car started accelerating of its own accord, without my foot on the accelerator. Not hard acceleration, but enough to notice. I put my foot on the brake hard, immediately, and ABS engaged and the car came to a stop, and the engine wasn't revving up. Odd. Let go of the brake, and it started accelerating on its own AGAIN! Same thing; brake, stop, but this time I switched it off and on again. No further issues driving home (nervously!). I thought okay, that's definitely a wheel speed sensor issue, but I'm not sure how.
So I got myself a code reader, plugged it in, no errors flagged. Damn.
It's only last night that I have realised, my code reader is not ABS capable! So that was a bit of a waste of time.
My plans, in order, to try and resolve it;
- Check all tyre pressures. The pre-purchase inspection spotted a tear in the front right tyre, but said this wasn't leaking. But maybe it is. It's very very slow, if it is, because I've had the car a while now and it still seems to have air in.
- Replace brake rotors and pads. Whilst I'm down there I'll also look at the wheel speed sensors and give them a wipe down, try to see if they're particularly gunked up. Also of course lubricate the guide pins, in the hope that these are currently not lubricated, and are causing the pads to stick to the rotors. Hopefully this will get rid of the squeak, but I have a feeling it won't get rid of the warning.
- Replace the batteries in the keys. One of these is fully dead, I know that, but I don't use that key so haven't encountered an issue.
- If I've still got warnings and squeaks, I'll have the car put on a code reader that actually _can_ read ABS issues. The dash warning might not be present at that moment, in which case I might have to buy my own, to have ready for when the warning next pops up. Hopefully then, it might tell me which (if any) wheel speed sensor is faulty, and I can replace just that one, rather than all four.
So my question to the forum at this stage; does any of my above story set off alarm bells for anyone? Especially that involuntary acceleration bit? It's not the first time I've driven a car that started accelerating on its own (though the last instance was far worse; a 190E 2.6, stuck at full throttle, heading towards a corner. Not an experience I want to repeat.), and so I'm very cautious about driving a 389bhp monster whilst it has a questionable brake system!
And does my plan of action sound sensible or is there something else I should be giving attention? Any advice would be appreciated greatly!
08-05-2023, 06:47 AM
#42
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mercedes E280Cdi
