alpharabbit

I just wanted to get an opinion on this. The ambient air temp is 70F at night. Took the 507 for a spin, driving ultra conservatively because I want to do at least half of a proper break in. My engine temp is 197F and oil temp is 230F. I feel like the coolant temp is high, 197F is 91C and max looks like 120C, that's fairly close. Is this normal temps other 507 owners are seeing?

jordanaf

Those are the same numbers that I am seeing. I was kind of thinking the same thing. My last C63 ran very similar numbers, but I was hoping for something different with the 507. I was hoping the nostrils on the hood did something.

But I feel the same way and the exact same numbers, so at least take comfort in that?

Let's try to find a solution!!

alpharabbit

Well at least I'm not the only one, was a bit concerned there. I guess I will have to see what the temps do under more aggressive load. I would feel much more comfortable if conservative numbers where like 80C for coolant and 90C under aggressive conditions.

SoFlaC63

im sure the thermostat opens at 195 so 197 is cool

tfthach13

I don't have a 507, but 230F seems a bit high for 70F conditions.

The only time I've hit 230F was in bumper to bumper traffic in the summer time when the temperature was around 100F.

Cruising on the freeway at 70mph with outside temperature at 70F, my oil temperature typically reads 217F, and coolant at 195F.

Maybe the increase in temperature has something to do with the upgraded internals of the engine?

jordanaf

I am more worried about the oil temp than the coolant.

I was really counting on it being in the low 200's. I also felt like I might have a problem. alpharabbit beat me to, but glad he posted. Maybe we can get to the bottom of this. I am thinking that 230/234F is also slightly high.

bmoney12

In normal driving I'm usually in the 220-230F range in S mode. If I drive a little aggressively around town in S+ or M I'll hit 240+ no problem. None 507 btw...

chrisridebike8

My coolant temp never goes above 200. Oil temp on track with 70 degree ambient temp got up to 268. Hard driving around town in M I have hit 258.

SaphGreyC63

Numbers are consistent with others.

Coolant temps at 195-198

Oil Temps

C Mode its about 216-220
S+ Mode with a little spirited driving here and there 230
M Mode is almost always 240 and that damn fan kicks in whining away. Highest I've got was 248

Ezec63

Its a problem with all non Black series C63 especially newer 2012+ cars with MCT because our trans gets hot and oil gets very hot after beating on it a bit. I had a big issue with the car going into limp mode around 27x degrees when i was beating the hell out of it. I had the black series oil and transmission cooler custom installed into my car (12 c63 coupe FBO headers+) and it solved the high temps i cant get the car over 240 no matter how hard i try. Thats going to be your only real solution and get rid of that mobil 1 junk :p

aussie e55

hi ezec63
what engine oil do u use thanks.

tfthach13

I can't agree with this more.

The last time my engine saw Mobil1 was when I got it from the dealership; first oil change, I went straight to Redline 10w60. Those ester compounds make a world of difference! Not to mention, the flash points are significantly higher than that of Mobil1.

However, $12-$13 a quart (Redline) might be a bit steep for some people. If you do the oil change yourself, it will still be cheaper than what the dealership charges for an oil change (A service) with Mobil1. Mind as well use the better stuff!

chrisridebike8

Why 10W60? I thought our cars ran W40? What kind of oil temps do you see now with the redline oil? Any thoughts on Lubromoly since you're running 10W60? Thanks!

Diabolis

Using 10W60 in a C63 motor is a perfect way to kill it prematurely. Might as well use a mixture of olive oil and Vaseline (with a little bit of pineapple juice added for the extra esters).

The MCT-equipped cars always run hotter than the older automatics because of the oil-immersed clutch.

alpharabbit

Thanks for the all the responses everyone. So it appears that this higher temp is quite normal for these cars. I did have the transmission in M mode while driving (was just shifting way early). Can someone PM me the pricing for the BS oil and trans coolers? I am not in a rush to install better cooling, but might consider it in the future if its not crazy expensive.

Diabolis

Not to hijack the thread, but Mobil 1 is junk? Use 10W60? Really? Please state your credentials and enlighten us with your knowledge and explain why that is. Unless you can back up your claims, please refrain from giving bad advice to people who might not have the knowledge to decide for themselves and screw up their cars by listening to experts like you.

One of my best friends (two engineering degrees - chemical & mechanical, MIT scholarship and then some, not a wannabe expert like others here) *INVENTED* synthetic oil when he was working for Union Carbide, so I'd says he knows his stuff pretty well. We have consumed many bottles of scotch over the years talking about oils, so some of the stuff has stuck. I am an engineer myself (not a chemical one though, but I do understand the science and math behind it) and I know reasonably well how to read a spec sheet and what compound does what. SO - again, please elaborate and tell us tell us why Mobil 1 is junk and what makes the Redline 10W60 better for the C63, or at least have the intestinal fortitude to admit that that's only your own unscientific opinion.

Diabolis

The BS now uses the same Mobil 1 Formula M 5W40 that goes in the non-BS C63, although *I* believe that 0W40 is a better oil for the gasoline engines. As for the BS oil cooler in a non-BS car, I am having a custom oil line made in a few weeks to connect a BS oil cooler to a non-BS car (you need a hose with different fittings on the ends). There was someone else on the board here that has already done it, with good results.

alpharabbit

Sweet, I was actually already going to put 0w40 in when its time to change the oil. The car is still brand new, has like 120 miles on it, so I really am in no rush to start swapping out coolers (since I haven't even run it hard enough yet). However, I know I will run the car hard in the future, so it might be worthwhile to upgrade when that time comes.

Ezec63

Yes I'm the guy that had the black series oil coolers done and also the guy who said Mobil 1 is junk haha if you need info on how to get the install done look at my thread. I also don't like Mobil one since it's a Group III+ synthetic I use Motul 300v 5w40 racing oil a group V synthetic. It's overkill for most here but I don't drive the car as a daily and when I drive i I beat the hell out of it. Mobil 1 will be good for most but if you track the car or don't care about the extra $ just want the best check out motul. As far as 0w-60 redline the other guy is using I'm not sure that's the best idea seems like it would be to thin

Diabolis

Hi Ezec,

I have no issues whatsoever with using an oil made from a better base stock. Having said that, AFAIK Mobil1 is a proper group IV fully synthetic base stock, whereas Castrol Syntec for example is a group III+ which they derive by hydrocracking dinosaur juice. I don't know enough about the "everything else" group V as these are usually very application specific so I can't comment on anything in there.

As for viscosity, in the M156 you need 0W40 or 5W40. A 60-weight oil (like the Red line 10W60) is actually much too thick (not thin) to properly flow through some of the smaller oil passages in the M156 motor.

Oil for racing applications has a very different set of requirements from what is needed in a car that is mainly used as a daily driver on the street with longer service intervals, so a generalized statement along the lines of "they use it in their racing cars so it must be good enough for the street" is not true in this case.

Cheers,
Doug

Ezec63

Doug,

Good information ! I was always under the impression that the higher number was thinner since I know a few BMW M Guys that run the 60+w oils and they always say it's thin I guess they were wrong haha. Yes I'm sure Mobil 1 will be good for most here that daily the car and do oil changes at regular intervals. My car is more of a street toy/ time attack car and my shop highly recommends the motul 300V for what I'm doing. The car gets an oil change every 2-3K miles or after every event. Like I said over kill but I love the car and want to keep it healthy under these conditions. The BS coolers have been great you'll love them if you go that route. Thanks for the info again always good to learn something new

tfthach13

First off, no disrespect whatsoever in what I'm about to say; it's all based on what I find logical and what I've been told by experts.

I'm not sure "prematurely killing the engine" is necessarily true. I'm no expert when it comes to engine mechanics, but I do have an independent mechanic who has worked for as a service advisor for MB for 25+ years before opening his own shop. And he has never steered me wrong with any problems I had with my car. He has seen countless engines malfunction and break down mainly because of the fluids that MB "recommends" is not sufficient for the longevity of our engines. Now that I look back on my post, I may have prematurely agreed with the Mobil1 being "junk" statement; that isn't what I intended to say.

MB recommends 10K miles in between oil changes. 10K miles. Why? Because the EPA says so. 10K miles in between oil changes is their way of "protecting" the environment, so oils don't get dumped every 5-6K miles. That ESP Mobil1 that's suppose to be "environmentally better?" That's the EPA's doing as well. All that means is that they removed all the additives that's suppose to be protecting the engine (i.e. esters). This in turn may lead to the higher temps because the oil breaks down faster over time. So when MB says they recommend a certain oil, I take that as the EPA is telling them to recommend that oil.

Going back to the Redline 10w60 that I use: With the Mobil1 that I used to use, I had to top off between 1-2 quarts between oil changes (as some would agree that they had to as well). Since using 10w60 I had to top off ZERO times, and the oil level on the dip stick remained pretty much consistent throughout. I've had no problems with start up or hesitation with the 10W60 oil. The only thing I've noticed is an extra 5 seconds for the car to warm up from a cold start. That's it. For me, I see the thinner oil seeping through the smaller areas and leaking into engine components that it isn't suppose to. But like I said, I'm not an expert in the matter and I could be wrong about this.

Personally, I find Redline to be better because of its higher flash point temperature and its "stronger" base compound. And that my independent mechanic recommends it over the standard Mobil1 oil. That is not to say that Mobil1 doesn't work, but why would you use Arco gas when Chevron/Shell gas is better?

All in all, I was simply stating what I use in my engine and that it has yet to fault me in anyway. I don't see this as giving "bad advice." I appreciate your scientific-expertise, but real-world situations trumps theoretical science every time. And from my driving experience, Redline works better than Mobil1.

So to the OP, I guess take all advice with a grain of salt? And try out what works for you.

@chrisridebike8 I'm not sure about Lubromoly. The two engine oils that I've been recommended is Redline 10W60 and the Motul 8100 5w40. However, the Motul oil is specifically tailored to racing applications and require a significantly shorter interval between oil changes.

tfthach13

Oops. I forgot about you asking about the temperatures.

In slow traffic and city driving with stop and go's, I typically hit 221F for engine temperature, and coolant gets as high as 197F. But on the freeway with light traffic going around 70ish mph I typically get 217F for engine oil, and 195F for coolant.

On cold nights, I've seen 215F/185F but very rare. And this is going 100+ mph (which I don't recommend doing ) for 15-20 second intervals.

Diabolis

Somebody else started an oil thread at https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post5799589 and I've posted a reply there as an oil debate is getting off-topic here.

Diabolis

Just for the record, you are correct about the BMW guys -- the difference being that the S54 motor in the E46 M3 *REQUIRES* 10W60 ester-based oil (I thinks Castrol TWS was the factory fill in those). The M156 engine in the C63 is a different animal altogether.