Autosport7

Just ordered up some Royal Purple Multi Grade Synthetic 5w40 and a WIX oil filter and am ready to change this oil...
Having said that, I am getting mixed messages on this forum about how to go about draining the oil.
From the top, or conventionally from the bottom drain plug, and if you go from the drain plug, how you have to replace the drain plug after every oil change...
Can I ask that the 1st hand experienced chime in here?

TIA

jvanbrecht

If you are doing your first oil change, drain it from the bottom not the top.
And drain it from both the oil pan, and oil cooler (near the bumper, passenger side, behind little rubber flaps, at least on the 09 model).

First oil changes should always be done from the bottom, while manufacturers do everything they can to make break in easy, and keep a clean inside, during the break in period there is always a chance of new engine bits and pieces (potentially metal shavings and such) to end up in the filter and oil. Even if modern cars no longer have this issue, there is no harm.

Also, typically if you drain from the top, there is about a quart of oil left in the cooler and pan (especially if you are not on a level surface).

Mort

I always do mine from underneath and drain the oil cooler as well. I only do mine once a year ~ 5000km and it is also my annual service.

So I suppose if you are doing an oil change between services then it makes sense to do it from the top and save yourself some time and aggravation.

If your are doing a full A or B service due to mileage or annual limits then I would do it from the underside. You will be doing a more complete and thorough job and you need to get it up on stands and take the underbelly pans off to do a proper inspection. Then you could still drain most of the oil from the top but drain the last bit and cooler from underneath to finish the job off properly.

Autosport7

I should clarify...
This is on an 09 with 40k. Not the cars first oil change, but as this was a pre-owned purchase, it will be the first time I change it personally.
Sorry for the misleading post.

jvanbrecht

Ahh, in that case.. I alternate, every other change (about every 5000 miles for me) is from below, in between from the top.

Merc63

You don't need a new plug. Maybe a new copper crush washer. Drain the front center oil cooler too.

Case1906

Hey Autosport7-- can you let us know if your oil temps run lower with the Royal Purple, a before and after?

Autosport7

Yeah for sure. I am doing an early oil change as I bought the car used an do not trust what they put in it at the dealer, if they changed it at all...? So this is about a 1k mile oil change. My temps now aren't really bad at all, but will see if this makes a difference.

cheesy

You don't trust the dealer but your putting an oil the manufacturer doesn't recommend, where does it say royal purple is sufficient oil for this engine ?

Autosport7

A. I don't trust the dealer with regard to the type of oil they may have put in the car because when I bought it I failed to ask. And since I was, at one time, a used car salesman, I know some of the games played with used cars, especially high end cars requiring "better" oil formulas.

B. Maybe your right, maybe I should rethink putting a non certified oil in my car... I researched it quite a bit and came to the conclusion that since I don't have a warranty to worry about, why not try it as it supposedly is a superior oil to Mobil 1. Maybe I was wrong for thinking this...?

I see this topic has been beaten to death but can anyone with real knowledge talk about this?

I personally formed the view that the certified formulas list was nothing more than a political statement, but maybe someone can prove me wrong.

jvanbrecht

Stick to an oil from this list (http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html) and you should be fine. Unfortunately Royal Purple is not on the list.

norb

Top!

cheesy

Ya that list has enough selection, should be able to find one on there, if you wanna switch it up try the liquimoly . you must make sure the oil spec is 229.5 and should have a weight of 40 for this engine

jvanbrecht

I actually think it is 229.51 now... I forget.. I Could look it up, but I am lazy

Autosport7

I just got off the phone with an engineer from RP.
Not only are they claiming a superior product, they are also claiming superior dyno results from their products.
I am not an engineer with regard to oils so I am not going to try and repeat everything that was said, but I will say this...
It seems to come down to money and politics. You have to pay steep fees to be on that list and to be on that list they control the products in which your formula is made of and what suppliers you purchase them from.

I have all the confidence in the world that this product is superior and I will continue with my decision to run it.

jvanbrecht

No one ever said their product was not a quality product. All we are stating is that MB has a specification. Feel free to follow it, or not, but if you have any warranty on your car, and you have to take it in for a warranty claim, be prepared to deal with a rejection if the issue is related to any lubricated moving parts.

Autosport7

As I stated earlier, I used to be in the automotive industry. It makes it very nice to have friends in VERY high places at the local MB dealerships.

A. I get all MB parts at dealer cost.
B. I have my own personal MB certified master mechanics (2) at my disposal that make house calls, (typically free of charge as they are good close friends of mine.)

No warranty, flying by the seat of my pants... "Warranties are for those okay with going back to stock when something breaks. If it breaks, I will build it bigger!"

byronburns

This is my experience with royal purple oil. I have run only their oil in my ford f-250. From the first oil change I noticed a measurable drop in rpm at 70 mph. When it came time to flush the tranny I decided to replace all lubricants with RP. Once this was done there was about a 500 rpm drop at 70mph. I'm sold. it will be in my sl next change. I however don't recommend anyone voids their warranty. Oh... by the way. there are 265,000 miles on that dinosaur truck.

Critter

Could you clarify what you mean by a drop in rpm @ 70mph. Standard trans or auto?

Merc63

How does your rpm drop 500 at 70rpm?? The engine tires and tranny are spinning as one unit at 70mph, unless you changed gearing an rpm drop is not possible.

Critter

Agreed Merc63, could maybe see increase in fuel mileage or oil pressure or HP, but all hard to tell in normal driving, too many variables.

2012C63AMG

"I am an insider I trust no one" but "I have connections" topics.

Then just buy the recommended oil at cost then…. Seems to be cheaper than buying royal purple if you can get what you claim. And it would of stopped half the comments and *****ing that will go on here all day lol.

2012C63AMG

This makes zero sense, unless you are implying things were not working to being with..


Its a fixed equation, if you drop the RPM at the engine you are going to drop in speed also, as the gears are fixed ratios so if you input 1000 RPM from an engine into the gear you will get out say 2000 RPM out, you can not have a drop in input RPM without a drop in output RPM thus a drop in speed unless you change the gear ratios.

Autosport7

Your missing the point...
Even with discounts, I will still run RP as I believe it to be a superior product.

2012C63AMG

OK then why not ask your buddies how to change your oil or just come over and do it yourself?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...al-purple.html

Guy sent his oil for independent lab testing, compared RP to Mobile 1.


"as I believe"

Numbers and evidence is all I care about, be it tuners who mislead by posting non corrected numbers to make it seem like they are pumping out more HP, to what type of oil we throw in our cars. Debate is good, it prevents future failures for some.