Scottie46

So as the title says. I've had my car for 11 months now. Ive tracked it twice and I do some hard driving obviously. My brakes squeal lowder than my exhaust at WOT lol. Do you guys think I should replace the pads with oem AMG pads? Aftermarket? And how much should I be paying for a brake job? And lastly, is it normal that the brakes should need to be replaced at 11 months. I'm trying to get this done tomorrow so thanks for all the help !!!

abcut973

lol! reminds me of this thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...placement.html

How many miles on your set of pads?
I'm pretty sure you have plenty life left on them. There is a sensor on our OEM brakes that will let you know if your pads are dead. Is that the squealing you are hearing? Usually once the pads are worn down the metal to metal contact generate that noise.

jvanbrecht

You have probably glazed your brake pads.. at that point, you have to replace them regardless of how much pad you have left.

LAMB09

Hey Scott,

I recommend using Wurth SBS brake spray I have a can you can use. You spray your rotors and pads.

Also for future I recommend porterfield r4-s pads. Great for track and street, less dust, less squeal. I couldn't take the squeal and had my oe pads replaced with these. Have been pretty happy ever since.

Let me know if you want to borrow the can of SBS.

You can look at your pads through the wheels and get an idea of how much meat are left on them.

Sam

Scottie46

14k miles on these pads. The car is less than a year old. Original pads. The noise is starting to get really loud. I know the big brakes (especially p31) make a lot of noise in general, especially in cold weather, but it's sooo loud

Scottie46

What do you mean by glazed the Pads?

Scottie46

What does the spray do? Also, I text you and you never replied like last weekend. Are the texts going through? And I'm confused on how those r4s pads are good but produce less dust? Are they supposed to be better than oem as well?

Thanks Sam!

m a x i m u s

dusty rotors squeal. try taking a hose to the rotors and rinse them off. works for me.

jvanbrecht

What are glazed pads? When brake pad compounds are overheated, the components crystallize on the surface as the resins and binders begin to melt and break down. This crystallized surface has a lower friction coefficient that simply means it cannot grab the surface of the rotor with the same amount of force as the undamaged pad. The term glazed is used because the pad surface will look smooth, shiny, and metallic like a glazed ceramic tile. Once a pad has been glazed, it cannot be repaired and it needs to be replaced. Glazing is caused by overheating the brakes beyond the operating temperature designed for the pad and/or failure to follow the bed-in procedure for the pads. This type of damage is not a defect in the pad and is not covered under the manufacturer warran

From Tire Rack

LAMB09

The R4-S pads are better for track use and still great for daily driving. They have a higher operating temp than stock and are less dusty as I believe they are from a different compound than the factory pads. They are not to expensive and you might like them more on the track. I had them installed almost a year ago and I am pretty happy with them. They will squeak every once in a while but not as loud or frequent as the stock pads did.

As for the Wurth SBS spray this is the description from the site. I bought it after reading another thread about it on the forum.

"The SBS Brake treatment is a revolutionary spray-on metalizing treatment designed to prevent brake noise at the source. When applied as directed, microfine aluminum products form a molecular bond with the rotor/drum friction surfaces. This composite surface finish ends annoying vibrations and brake squeal at the source, giving the assurance of a quality brake job." As quoted from there catalog.

Treats pads and rotors-
-Spray a light mist of SBS Brake Treatment directly to the rotors/drums and pads/shoes
-Effective on all brake systems
-No drying time required
-Benefits last up to 1 year or 10,000 miles
-Prevents rust and seizure of lugs
-Extends brake life
-Effectiveness tested from -100 degrees to 1800 degrees

ghiaguy

Save the coin, its about the easiest DIY out there
As far as pads, I've had luck with Akebono products

adv4nced53

Glazing reduces stopping power and can be undone with some normal driving.

R4-S are like $500 shipped. You guys really spend that much on pads for street cars?
Don't think Akebono makes pads for the C63. I ran those on my old C300 and they never made noise.

Either way, I'm getting tired of squeaking too, so I'll have to pull the trigger on something too. Any other suggestions?

Clark Kent

I just did a full OEM four corner fixer upper. All OEM parts, rotors and pads. Parts cost was about $1100. Installation was about $428.60 give or take $0.00. I don't think my rears were in dire need but my fronts were. This includes 26k street mi + 4 track days. I was squealing like Ned Beatty everytime the light turned yellow. Down here in Texas that ain't good. 'Cuz the guys in their Ford F150's say "that Mercedes sure does have a purty mouth". Damn. Now I have FRESH Pilot Super Sports & FRESH brakes. I'm not a sittin' duck canoe on a river. I shoot first and haul *** soonthereafter. Life is good again.

Scottie46

Thanks for all the advice guys!

Scottie46

I guess I'll check to see how much brake life I can noticeably see and if I see some nice meat. I'll take assumption they're glazed

Critter

Pull the pads and scuff them across some 100 grit sand paper, chamfer the edges so there is no 90 degree edge around the friction material, reinstall. Drive civil for a while, all will be good. When the pads are out you can see what meat is left.