AFR AMG

Hi guys, I need some advice regarding service for my 09 c63 (50k miles, out of warranty, runs perfectly).

I just had Service B performed at my local dealer. While there, they decided that the car also needed a transmission service and rear differential service for a total of $1550 (Service B-$500, Brake Fluid Change-$250, Transmission Service-$550, Rear Diff Service-$250). When they returned the car, a CEL came on the next day. I brought the car back to said dealer and they told me in was a leak in the intake manifold and that the gasket needs to be replaced for $900.

I am feeling the distinct sensation of rape right now. Is this a fair price for this or should I go to a different shop?

I did my duty and hit the search button to discover that the gasket leak is a common problem in the 6.2L. However, is it possible that something the dealer did during service that caused this problem (there were no CELs before the service)?

Finally, is it necessary to replace the gasket at this very moment? The car runs absolutely fine.

Thanks for the help!

Critter

I see you are state side, take the car to an Autozone and let them pull the code for you, go from there. For all you know they left the gas cap off slightly, just saying. It seems pretty strange after the service where the car leaves your hands to the next day pull a code, for me anyways. Second would do the brake clean or wd 40 spray around the manifold to check for leaks if that code warrants it.

johnnyblaze

I had to replace my intake manifold gasket at 26k miles. Your leak sounds much worse than mine, mine did not throw a CEL, but I had a high pitched sound when the car was warm coming from underneath the hood.

My car sounded exactly like this,

My local shop (Benzworks) took care of the problem for 1/4 of that cost, find a independent shop that knows what they are doing because the task is tedious and requires you replace the one time use bolts in the manifold. Also there is a special torquing technique they have to use to lock it down correctly.

Dogtag114

Mine was replaced under warranty then happened again a year later... That time they just decided to reseal it and it worked fine... Just sayin.

Maybe someone here has done the same successfully by themselves?

I also just did the same fluid services last week... Ug didn't see that coming... Good thing I love this car.

avery.whss

$900!!!! DO IT...Mine costed $3800 (probably a bit more wrong with mine) but $900...Dude that's dirt cheap...get it done...you realize how much a head light cost on these cars alone? 1 headlight is close to $2,000...if they are willing to fix your intake for $900 that's cheap as hell..especially from a dealer

abcut973

900$ is still expensive!!
I had my intake manifold gasket replaced recently by the dealer under extended warranty and it was charged 398$ ! So that dealer you are going to is trying to rip you off!
But if i was you i would have checked the OBDII code thrown. A vacuum leak could be caused by a bad gasket, cracks in the vacuum lines, faulty pcv hose or crack in the manifold itself. It is not a big deal on your engine unless yours is misfiring badly. Usually the leak creates rough idling and/or increased fuel consumption since your car will be running lean.
So if i was you i would check the code, use the brake cleaning technic to localise the leak or have a reputable shop do the smoke test. GL

M-Theory

Hate to bring up a old thread but this is better than me making a whole new thread just for asking something simple.

I decided to keep my car and proceed with my Nitrous plans but wanted to do preventative maintenance.

Where do you find the intake manifold bolts to purchase?? I can't find them any where, not even a parts number.

I'll be replacing my intake filters, spark plugs, PCV, intake manifold gasket, bolts and maybe MAFS, before the nitrous install, just makes me feel better.

Thanks

abcut973

Here is the part # for the intake manifold bolts: 004 990 53 12
GL

M-Theory

You're awesome!!

Thanks a lot.

abcut973

I had to check my invoice

roadtalontsi

torque on the intake manifold bolts is 10nm, 90 degrees, then 10 degrees. Just fyi did some yesterday so fresh on my mind.

M-Theory

Thanks for that info, I was actually reading the pattern just now, could you clarify the degrees more? As in what you mean by 90 then 10, is this degrees of the wrench? Sorry if its a stupid question.

m3driver

Anyone know what the length and thread pitch on the intake manifold bolts are? I'm not a big fan of TTY bolts when they are known to vibrate loose. I'm getting a CEL for lean bank 1 and 2 so my plan is to replace the crap stock bolts with some non TTY and low strength lock tight. Also not a fan of Torx head, I'd like to just use hex head.

Also does any one know can you get to the bolts without having to remove the fuel rail etc?

thanks in advance.

Marco

chrisridebike8

You don't need to remove the fuel rail.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...valve-diy.html

m3driver

thanks!

Vladds

Stick with the Aluminum bolts.
If you use a different material, you may end up with cracks in the manifold.
The manifold is a magnesium alloy and requires bolts that thermally expand at a comparable rate. If you use a steel alloy, you may end up with a manifold thickness that has increased and a bolt length that is "trying to stay" constant, which will damage the manifold.

On the other hand, during the process of changing my gaskets, I replaced the bolts twice.
I measured the stretched length of the existing bolts vs the new set that I had installed per spec.
The existing bolts, by looking at their stretched length(tty), looked like the problem was they were not TTY-Ed at the factory. They were not long enough.
I also looked at the video that shows the technician assembling the m156 and they don't show the sequence where the manifold gets torqued. I don't know why.
So the manifold does not loosen due to vibration, due to the bolts being aluminum, but the manifold is not torqued right from the get go, noting that the bolts can be faulted for.

Jasonoff

he problem was corrected. There's no issues with the revised aluminum bolts.

Like Vladds said, they're aluminium TTY for a reason.