Seat Bolster and lumbar buttons
#1
Seat Bolster and lumbar buttons
Hi all,
I'm new to this forum, I'm a 25 year old Advertising Exec from Auckland, New Zealand. Had a pretty diverse range of cars growing up, and most recently came from an 08 BMW M5, to an 11 C63 (pre facelift)
Loving it so far; the sound, the direct steering, the lack of SMG gearbox... The only pain point I'm having with my black beast, is that the buttons on the side of both my front seats that control lumbar and bolsters don't work.
Now I realise this is a common problem with C63's, and before I get told to use the search fucntion, I have scrolled through every thread in this forum looking for an answer. The problem is pretty much all threads end with "I went to the dealership and now it's fixed". I can't find a definitive solution to this issue that doesn't involve the dealership.
Since both seats are out, I doubt it's mechanisms within the actual seats that are at fault, so can anyone tell me what wiring/modules/ fuses to check? I'm pretty handy with this sort of thing if I know where to look, and I have a friend working in the local Mercedes parts department who can sell me parts at cost, so if anyone can help me solve this issue in a DIY manner, I'd be extremely appreciative.
Cheers,
Raj
I'm new to this forum, I'm a 25 year old Advertising Exec from Auckland, New Zealand. Had a pretty diverse range of cars growing up, and most recently came from an 08 BMW M5, to an 11 C63 (pre facelift)
Loving it so far; the sound, the direct steering, the lack of SMG gearbox... The only pain point I'm having with my black beast, is that the buttons on the side of both my front seats that control lumbar and bolsters don't work.
Now I realise this is a common problem with C63's, and before I get told to use the search fucntion, I have scrolled through every thread in this forum looking for an answer. The problem is pretty much all threads end with "I went to the dealership and now it's fixed". I can't find a definitive solution to this issue that doesn't involve the dealership.
Since both seats are out, I doubt it's mechanisms within the actual seats that are at fault, so can anyone tell me what wiring/modules/ fuses to check? I'm pretty handy with this sort of thing if I know where to look, and I have a friend working in the local Mercedes parts department who can sell me parts at cost, so if anyone can help me solve this issue in a DIY manner, I'd be extremely appreciative.
Cheers,
Raj
#2
Senior Member
I had this very same problem. The driver and passenger seats are on the same fuse so a fault in either seat will take out both. The issue I had was traced to the lumbar/bolster adjustment wiring harness somewhere near one of the hinges to the back rest part of the drivers seat. The wiring insulation had worn away, exposing the wiring and causing a short. So the story goes it really depends on what particular seat setting is used - some positions can cause the wiring to stretch/kink more than others - so not every driver/car will experience the problem.
The fix involved removing the whole seat and pulling it all apart, to identify the wiring harness and then use insulation tape to repair the damaged wiring and to then reroute the wiring harness so it does not kink/stretch.
The fix involved removing the whole seat and pulling it all apart, to identify the wiring harness and then use insulation tape to repair the damaged wiring and to then reroute the wiring harness so it does not kink/stretch.
#3
I had this very same problem. The driver and passenger seats are on the same fuse so a fault in either seat will take out both. The issue I had was traced to the lumbar/bolster adjustment wiring harness somewhere near one of the hinges to the back rest part of the drivers seat. The wiring insulation had worn away, exposing the wiring and causing a short. So the story goes it really depends on what particular seat setting is used - some positions can cause the wiring to stretch/kink more than others - so not every driver/car will experience the problem.
The fix involved removing the whole seat and pulling it all apart, to identify the wiring harness and then use insulation tape to repair the damaged wiring and to then reroute the wiring harness so it does not kink/stretch.
The fix involved removing the whole seat and pulling it all apart, to identify the wiring harness and then use insulation tape to repair the damaged wiring and to then reroute the wiring harness so it does not kink/stretch.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Check the actual fuse box. If I'm not mistaken there should be a chart in there?
#5
I've looked everywhere in my car for a fuse chart to no avail. I suspect it's with the instruction manual...which is with the last owner... If you have one, a picture of it would be super appreciated?
#6
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
The fuse chart in my car was in the trunk with the tools to change a tire. That round thing that you unscrew to remove the spare tire with jack and tow bar etc in it. Just a piece of paper so you might have to take it apart a bit as it is tucked in with the tools.
Last edited by Mort; 02-17-2014 at 06:41 PM.
#7
Senior Member
The fuse chart is pretty useless for this. On Aus delivered cars the seat bolster fuse is a 5A fuse if I recall correctly, and it is not specifically listed on the chart. It is located in the rear fuse box ie in that compartment in the boot on drivers side (RHD drive), testing me here but it is about halfway down the column of fuses closest to the front of the car.
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#8
The fuse chart is pretty useless for this. On Aus delivered cars the seat bolster fuse is a 5A fuse if I recall correctly, and it is not specifically listed on the chart. It is located in the rear fuse box ie in that compartment in the boot on drivers side (RHD drive), testing me here but it is about halfway down the column of fuses closest to the front of the car.
#9
Senior Member
I just had a look to remind myself. It was either fuse 56 or 59, both 5A, located at the very front of the fusebox in the boot. From memory according to the fuse chart these corresponded to Parktronic or something completely unrelated to seating ie that fuse chart is a waste of time.
Mine kept blowing fuses as quick as I could replace them so clearly it was a short issue, as it was subsequently found to be. I let MB do it, under warranty.
Mine kept blowing fuses as quick as I could replace them so clearly it was a short issue, as it was subsequently found to be. I let MB do it, under warranty.
#10
I just had a look to remind myself. It was either fuse 56 or 59, both 5A, located at the very front of the fusebox in the boot. From memory according to the fuse chart these corresponded to Parktronic or something completely unrelated to seating ie that fuse chart is a waste of time.
Mine kept blowing fuses as quick as I could replace them so clearly it was a short issue, as it was subsequently found to be. I let MB do it, under warranty.
Mine kept blowing fuses as quick as I could replace them so clearly it was a short issue, as it was subsequently found to be. I let MB do it, under warranty.
Oh sweet thanks, I'll check when I get home. To be honest, at this point I'd just be happy if I could have the controls working long enough for me to adjust the lumbar and bolsters to my liking, not too phased if the fuse blows after 5 mins haha
#11
Really trying to keep going to the dealership as the last resort, because my local one is useless..
Cheer,s
Raj
#13
I've read a lot of the threads on this issue (I have 2009 C63 w204). As my fuse #56 was good I assumed it was the wiring in one of the seats... However... it was actually the rear SAM unit which was not receiving / sending enough voltage to drive the system. A Mercedes tech is bypassing the SAM unit just to get voltage to the front seats and went via an empty fuse socket so it would still trip if I ever do develop a wiring issue in the seat.
I'll let y'all know if it works!!
I'll let y'all know if it works!!
#14
I've read a lot of the threads on this issue (I have 2009 C63 w204). As my fuse #56 was good I assumed it was the wiring in one of the seats... However... it was actually the rear SAM unit which was not receiving / sending enough voltage to drive the system. A Mercedes tech is bypassing the SAM unit just to get voltage to the front seats and went via an empty fuse socket so it would still trip if I ever do develop a wiring issue in the seat.
I'll let y'all know if it works!!
I'll let y'all know if it works!!
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sorry guy, It's the seats wiring.
They start with a two wire connector and 6 inches down they branch it into four then by the seat hinge into 6 and they don't all have room behind the hinge and it scissors away at them.
Essentially, all wires are branches of only two.
It does look like an engineer calculated the resistance of the wiring and decided that this was the most ...... maybe efficient? ..... solution but failed to estimate the impact of the thickness of the wiring.
As an engineer, I respect their work but this is problematic.
So for my passenger seat I went with two triple size gauge wire that I soldered way past the hinge.
Also I came up with an abbreviated version of the work, where a lot less gets removed.
I have two short videos that I put together with the intention to clean them up and upload them, if there's interest.
They start with a two wire connector and 6 inches down they branch it into four then by the seat hinge into 6 and they don't all have room behind the hinge and it scissors away at them.
Essentially, all wires are branches of only two.
It does look like an engineer calculated the resistance of the wiring and decided that this was the most ...... maybe efficient? ..... solution but failed to estimate the impact of the thickness of the wiring.
As an engineer, I respect their work but this is problematic.
So for my passenger seat I went with two triple size gauge wire that I soldered way past the hinge.
Also I came up with an abbreviated version of the work, where a lot less gets removed.
I have two short videos that I put together with the intention to clean them up and upload them, if there's interest.
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Cwagon (11-22-2019)
#20
Junior Member
I have the same issue. The window sticker on my car states lumbar support, but the 3 buttons on the side of each seat don’t do anything. I asked my local dealer and they said I don’t have the circular
button the the other side... but why would the window sticker say I have lumber support? (The buttons I have are 3 rectangular buttons on the right side of driver and left side of passenger)
button the the other side... but why would the window sticker say I have lumber support? (The buttons I have are 3 rectangular buttons on the right side of driver and left side of passenger)
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Cwagon (08-16-2020)
#22
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Bondi Beach , Australia
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2013 W204 C63 AMG P31 Estate wagon
Thanks for supplying the video.
Which fuse/s supply the lumbar support modules for each seat?
Also if one seat has pinched wiring and shorts out can this stop the other seat from working?
Which fuse/s supply the lumbar support modules for each seat?
Also if one seat has pinched wiring and shorts out can this stop the other seat from working?
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
There's one fuse for both seats.
And it's described wrong in the factory diagram.
You have to search the forum, I don't remember the number.
It's in the rear fuse panel, in a vertical stack.
And it's described wrong in the factory diagram.
You have to search the forum, I don't remember the number.
It's in the rear fuse panel, in a vertical stack.
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Cwagon (08-17-2020)
#25
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2010 Irridium Silver MB C63 AMG Sedan
Just a point....I dealt with bad seat fuses for one whole day. I kept having my blue fuse pop over and over again. I think I replaced it 13 times.
Do not keep your phone charger plugged into the cig lighter all day and night. They cause the seat fuses and the cig lighter to pop.
Do not keep your phone charger plugged into the cig lighter all day and night. They cause the seat fuses and the cig lighter to pop.