natman316

My pads are running out so I decided to replace them with porterfields r4s and new front girodisc rotors! Is replacing the rotors and pads on our cars a difficult task and do we need any special tools? Are there any dummy step by step DIY guides? also where can I find the torque specs to tighten the bolts to?

I have done brake pads on Acuras before but the calipers are different, and I have never done rotors before.

I would appreciate any advice, thank you in advance!

m a x i m u s

brakes are easy, but messy. go for it. I'm sure you can handle it.

Rolf de Graaff

it is easy and straight foreward. I have done it a few weeks ago, also with girodiscs.
You do need an allan key size 10 where you can put some force on to unbolt the callipers.
There are two pins and on M8 bolt that hold the pads. And you need one torx key to loosen the discs. The Giro discs don't have that hole to put the torx screw back in but that's no problem.
If you have any questions, let me know!

abcut973

Yep this brake job is a DYI job. No problem.
You'll need jack stands, air compressor and impact wrench to speed up the process, and tools mentioned above.
I would recommend to bleed your brakes on top of changing the pads.

zibby43

+1

Thrilla

If you're just doing pads and rotors, no need to bleed your brakes. You can, but not necessary.

bhamg

This thread should help re. caliper removal.. I'm sure a search will uncover other useful threads.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ront-rear.html

douwe22

found this diy when I did my brakes, it helped me.

natman316

anyone know where I can find torque specs for the braking system?

I dont have an impact wrench/air tools but I can use hand tools right?


thank you!

natman316

also, do I need a clamp to squeeze the pistons back in to change my pads? (I remember doing this on another car..)

solekeeper

natman, yes hand tools will be fine. I actually prefer them. Less chance of stripping something coming out.. And i have had 0 issues hand tightening any caliper bolts

douwe22

hand tools are fine, use vise grip or c-clamp for pistons, just leave the old pad in while pushing in pistons.

natman316

thanks guys. also seems like I should use the locktite for the bolts?

and to confirm, the rotor is only held on by the one torx bolt right?

bhamg

I've used a piece of wood before at various times in my shade tree mechanic life but this is now in my tool box:

Mort

I have found I can push the pads and pistons back to their most open position by hand. Give that a try first. I do keep my brakes serviced on a regular basis and free of crud. Other than that you will need a pad spreader (proper way) or use your imagination but go easy (a large screw driver will work wonders but can cause damage so be forewarned). A c-clamp will work if you can get it in there but hard to not damage paint work on calipers and find a flat surface on the caliper to clamp against. Also there are six pistons front/4 rear so you will need a plate of some sort (brake pad) or try to hold 5 pistons while you compress one.

Hand tools are the preferred way to do this job except for the lug bolts maybe. Actually air tools are not the best way to do lug bolts either but that is what most mechanics (sic) use regardless.

Torque Specs (comps alldata - give it a try)

Front caliper bolts to carrier - 180Nm
Rear caliper bolts to carrier - 110Nm
Sensor bolts - 8Nm
Front cross bolt anti-rattle spring support - 30Nm
Disc to hub screw - 10Nm

jvanbrecht

pop open the brake fluid reservoir to let the fluid expand so as not to pressurize the other lines in the system, and use your hands. I have no problems pushing the pistons back in by hand.

natman316

will give that a try tomorrow and keep you posted, thank you guys.

Mort: you have to pay for that service right?

jvanbrecht

Alldatadiy.com, and it is like $20 a year or something per car.. well worth the money.

roadtalontsi

I hate to say this but if you have to ask the question in this thread title you should probably let it go. So can anyone who has done this on there own actually tell me what the t30 torque screw that holds the rotor on is actually for? this might be a trick question

m a x i m u s

sounds like a trick question indeed.

jvanbrecht

It's just to hold it in place. The actual rotor is held in place by the clamping force of the wheels. The screw is a set screw to hold the rotor in place while the wheel and caliper have been removed.

It is not even needed ultimately once the wheel is on.

bhamg

Best to have an impact driver handy.

I think they are "needed" if you catch my drift.

natman316

how do we remove this part?



there was a 13mm bolt on the other end that i removed but then I couldnt move the rest of it.

thanks.

Mort

Put the bolt back in almost all the way and give it a light tap or two. That should loosen up the cross bolt. It just has some light corrosion or crud holding it in place.

abcut973

+1