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Anyone have any input on this kit? Is it better to get a rear k-Mac kit or this one? I don't plan to track the car but want to help out with tire wear and improve the rear set up. Thanks for the input. My new continental extremes last about 7k miles in the rear. Front are about 50% left. Spirited driving, no burnouts. May need suspension tuner to fix so thought to get others input if you've used these in the past.
Anyone have any input on this kit? Is it better to get a rear k-Mac kit or this one? I don't plan to track the car but want to help out with tire wear and improve the rear set up. Thanks for the input. My new continental extremes last about 7k miles in the rear. Front are about 50% left. Spirited driving, no burnouts. May need suspension tuner to fix so thought to get others input if you've used these in the past.
is your car lowered i am going to try continental extreme contact DW in the hope of getting a softer ride thanks for any feedback
is your car lowered i am going to try continental extreme contact DW in the hope of getting a softer ride thanks for any feedback
Yes with coilovers. The tires are great and sticky enough. I ran toyo r888s before so this is a great compromise. It's quiet. My rears lasted only 7k but think it's more due to suspension set up. May try advan sport v105s on next set.
take a picture to show how the rear tires wore? 7k isnt bad on a c63 with spirited driving. The extreme contact dw's are horribly noisey dont bother with those.
take a picture to show how the rear tires wore? 7k isnt bad on a c63 with spirited driving. The extreme contact dw's are horribly noisey dont bother with those.
Both were worn down evenly except for outer rear tread, 30% left. Inside looked like slicks pretty much but both side even. They were pretty quiet for me.....well I guess coming from r888s anything was quiet. Grip was real good. A few pro drivers who drove at circuit of the Americas told my friend they were very impressive for a street tire so went off their input.
Looks to be a new product as its not on the website but they're selling it in their ebay account. I would go this route as K-Mac camber bushings do tend to wear out. Bushings overall and not specifically just K-Macs
Looks to be a new product as its not on the website but they're selling it in their ebay account. I would go this route as K-Mac camber bushings do tend to wear out. Bushings overall and not specifically just K-Macs
ya r888's get really loud, they also wear alot better because they are intended to have alot of camber on them as well. the adjustable arms or bushings can help with wear but will hurt performance/handling on the track. When i set the supra up for drag racing/street use i usually run 0 rear camber if not a hair positive so it is barely negative for the best contact patch while squaitng under load. roadcourse it's a whole different story. ultimately you'll be lucky if you can ever see 10kmiles or so on a rear set. It's just part of the amg owners club
Anyone have any input on this kit? Is it better to get a rear k-Mac kit or this one? I don't plan to track the car but want to help out with tire wear and improve the rear set up. Thanks for the input. My new continental extremes last about 7k miles in the rear. Front are about 50% left. Spirited driving, no burnouts. May need suspension tuner to fix so thought to get others input if you've used these in the past.
Reason we manufacture rear adjustable Camber bushings over Camber arms as the best solution is three fold...
1. Adjustable Camber arms to gain more even tire wear/traction push top of tire outwards decreasing top of tire to outer fender clearance.
Instead with K-MAC bushes they adjust the lower control arms inwards therefore retaining this all important clearance to outer fender (or alternatively if wanting extra negative Camber - K-MAC kit also has the advantage of increasing the actual track width).
2. K-MAC kits include extra Toe adjustment. Doubles the actual adjustment range. Because with lowered cars once the Camber facility is included there is insufficient factory Toe to compensate.
3. Extra bonus with K-MAC is these Camber bushings also replace the highest wearing rear bushes. K-MAC unique patented design has twice the load bearing area of OEM rubber bushings. Allowing to get full power to the ground, maximum traction.
Same applies with K-MAC front adjusters (like the rear - OEM there is only Toe adjustment).
Front kits provide precise/quick (single wrench) adjustment of Camber and Caster. Allowing ongoing adjustment for curb knocks, altering height, wide profile tires/wheels.... getting back to factory specs.
Ending the frustration of continually changing tire brands or going from one MB dealer or alignment shop to another when all they have to work with is Toe adjustment!
Camber - to dial in more even tire wear/traction (or race days lowering lap times by going deeper into the corners with extra negative Camber and track width).
Caster - to resolve steering pull/wander. Improve high speed control, steering response along with reduced dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
Looks to be a new product as its not on the website but they're selling it in their ebay account. I would go this route as K-Mac camber bushings do tend to wear out. Bushings overall and not specifically just K-Macs
We've been manufacturing this K-MAC design now since the early 90's (over 20 years). The rear bushings do not even warrant a separate part number.
It's a case of fit and forget. Unlike any other bushings K-MAC centers are hardened steel. Nickel chromed with grease grooves and twice the load bearing area of OEM bushes.
Reason we manufacture rear adjustable Camber bushings over Camber arms as the best solution is three fold...
1. Adjustable Camber arms to gain more even tire wear/traction push top of tire outwards decreasing top of tire to outer fender clearance.
Instead with K-MAC bushes they adjust the lower control arms inwards therefore retaining this all important clearance to outer fender (or alternatively if wanting extra negative Camber - K-MAC kit also has the advantage of increasing the actual track width).
2. K-MAC kits include extra Toe adjustment. Doubles the actual adjustment range. Because with lowered cars once the Camber facility is included there is insufficient factory Toe to compensate.
3. Extra bonus with K-MAC is these Camber bushings also replace the highest wearing rear bushes. K-MAC unique patented design has twice the load bearing area of OEM rubber bushings. Allowing to get full power to the ground, maximum traction.
Same applies with K-MAC front adjusters (like the rear - OEM there is only Toe adjustment).
Front kits provide precise/quick (single wrench) adjustment of Camber and Caster. Allowing ongoing adjustment for curb knocks, altering height, wide profile tires/wheels.... getting back to factory specs.
Ending the frustration of continually changing tire brands or going from one MB dealer or alignment shop to another when all they have to work with is Toe adjustment!
Camber - to dial in more even tire wear/traction (or race days lowering lap times by going deeper into the corners with extra negative Camber and track width).
Caster - to resolve steering pull/wander. Improve high speed control, steering response along with reduced dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
Thank you for the excellent post. I'll review as well.
Can anyone tell me the nominal center-to center measurement between the bolt holes on the C63 OEM rear camber? Looking at trying to adapt these Top Speed Pro-1 cambers to the Chrysler Crossfire. All the aftermarket cambers made for our cars, including the DIY ones, use a straight rod/tube. Our OEM camber is the bent type and when the cars are lowered, the camber needs to be bent much like the Top Speed ones shown to avoid the sway bar slamming into the camber. Having a hard time finding specs to match our needs. Our OEM camber measures around 11-3/4" center-to-center w/ 1/2" bolt on each end. By the way, I'm the one that posted the DIY setup on the XFire forums. Greatly appreciate any help.
Try the General G-Maxs. Quiet, sticky, AS with great tread rating, and they can be cross-rotated to extend their tread life. On my second set now! Tires lasted 40,000 miles with the DIY setup, compared to under 10,000 before. Can't beat the price either. And no, I'm not lowered.
FYI - The K-Macs will set you back around $500 for the rear set, compared to $90 for the DIY set, which saves you enough for almost 2 new rear tires.
DIY setup gives the same adjustments as the K-Macs, and much easier to install!
hi SROC276, i am glad to comment since i installed simillar camber arm.
i purchased a different brand name hardrace and i believe they have the same structure as the item shown in your pic.
the main reason i change to this aftermarket camber arm is because of tire rubbing on my rear vorsteiner wheel (et50,10j) - i dont want to roll my fender so instead i bought the adjustable camber arm.
installation is quite straightforward. except you have to lower the rear subframe a bit to get the original camber arm bolt out. btw you have to unscrew some bolts from the flange on rear left camber arm (which i was told that it is to fix the auto headlight stabilizer sensor, sorry not sure how it should be called)
it will also cause you a certain time to adjust the right angle to keep away from rubbing when you do your 4 wheel alignment - you have to load/unload your wheels during the adjustment since it will be almost impossible to adjust the screw when you put wheel on.
finally i got a 2.4 degree on my rear and it is no longer rubbing ~ i am happy with the setup. - the negative side is less grip at rear i can feel now and possible tire wear in future.
anyway it looks good and works well. hope my exp. could help (and this is the photo how it looks now with the cf spoiler i bought from you~~~~)
Thanks...yup got mine and had them installed and tuned already. Straight line stability greatly improved with my coil over set up...love it and well worth it. Suspension tuner recommended adj sway bar pieces which I had to buy from agency power. Waiting to have them installed to complete the suspension set up. Thanks for the input and yes my arms look identical to yours but orange instead of blue....should have gotten blue! Lol
hi SROC276, i am glad to comment since i installed simillar camber arm.
i purchased a different brand name hardrace and i believe they have the same structure as the item shown in your pic.
the main reason i change to this aftermarket camber arm is because of tire rubbing on my rear vorsteiner wheel (et50,10j) - i dont want to roll my fender so instead i bought the adjustable camber arm.
installation is quite straightforward. except you have to lower the rear subframe a bit to get the original camber arm bolt out. btw you have to unscrew some bolts from the flange on rear left camber arm (which i was told that it is to fix the auto headlight stabilizer sensor, sorry not sure how it should be called)
it will also cause you a certain time to adjust the right angle to keep away from rubbing when you do your 4 wheel alignment - you have to load/unload your wheels during the adjustment since it will be almost impossible to adjust the screw when you put wheel on.
finally i got a 2.4 degree on my rear and it is no longer rubbing ~ i am happy with the setup. - the negative side is less grip at rear i can feel now and possible tire wear in future.
anyway it looks good and works well. hope my exp. could help (and this is the photo how it looks now with the cf spoiler i bought from you~~~~)
Any other camber setups for front and rear or just these thru eBay and the KMac?
Yes my suspension guy had to drill the arm in order to find the same placement spot like the oem arm. The manufacturer told us just to attach with a tie down which we thought was funny so decided to attached it properly. Not sure if there are any reprocussions but HID lightings could be affected? Not 100% but my installer seemed to think so. There is a sensor upfront too and one in the back. Drivers side I believe. My arm was drilled and sensor attached properly like oem. Don't think it's that difficult to do.
Yes my suspension guy had to drill the arm in order to find the same placement spot like the oem arm. The manufacturer told us just to attach with a tie down which we thought was funny so decided to attached it properly. Not sure if there are any reprocussions but HID lightings could be affected? Not 100% but my installer seemed to think so. There is a sensor upfront too and one in the back. Drivers side I believe. My arm was drilled and sensor attached properly like oem. Don't think it's that difficult to do.
Ahh. That's what I'll do then. Currently stuck on getting the bolt out. Looks like I do have to drop the rear subframe. Fug.
Edit -- for future reference in case anyone sees this. Lowering the subframe is super easy. 4 bolts. Tighten them back up to spec which is 65NM per WIS.
07-14-2014, 09:58 PM
