Conv_GSDriver

Hey guys,
Finally got my 2011 P31 C63 on sunday. Noticed a few things that I have to fix already and had an appointment made at the dealer today and where it is at right now. Here are a few things I got from the phone call back:
1. Car pulls to the right so I had them check for alingment. The service rep came back with I need front camber bolts to get it back to spec. My question was, why can't that be done with the stock bolts? the rep mentioned the stock bolts do not have enough range and the other MB bolts would provide the necessary range to get it back to spec, a little over $300 for the bolts without install. I asked him to send me the part #s so I can do some research on these bolts.


2. The tilt steering knob was broken and needs replacement (that I knew since I saw it) and will cost $600 in parts and labor.


3. The rear sunshade does not work at all, the rep mentioned the motors would have to be replaced and it is about $2k worth of parts and labor. I'm passing on that.


As a bonus, the car does have a full akrapovic exhaust, saw it on the lift today. This means the car may already have a tune, but would have to get it dynoed first. I really need some help with item #1 on here. Does not seem right to me that the stock bolts would not have enough tolerance to get it back within spec. TIA.

Girard@ACGautomotive

I have a full set of alignment bolts I can sell you. The stock bolts are useless in adjusting caster and camber. They are fixed with no way to adjust.

But I see you are in Temecula. Go see Steve Rinaga, Technician up there at Fletcher Jones. He claims his alignment guy is impressive and can dial it in.

Let me know if you'd like the bolts, I can get them to you as early as tomorrow.

-Marlin-

Wait, so there is no adjusting the alignment of the car?

So, something gets bent and needs to be replaced every time you don't go straight?

crazy1eye

Front camber bolt part # 000-333-10-71

Conv_GSDriver

Tal,
Thank you for the reply. How much $$ for the bolts?

Conv_GSDriver

Thanks crazy1eye

Girard@ACGautomotive

Bought them for my own car, already had them installed lol.

$70 + shipping for all 4.

Mort

Here is what my dealer in Canada charged me to install 2 bolts. They had 4 bolts but only installed 2 camber bolts and left the caster bolts out.

Labor to install bolts $ 94.46
2 Bolts 000-333-10-71 @ $35.15 = $ 70.30
Alignment and testing $209.90
Shop supplies $ 8.97
Total (without tax) $383.63

End result the car still pulled to the right. Go to a guy that knows what he has to do to correct this problem as not all alignment guys do.

Do you know if your car is lowered?

GL

Conv_GSDriver

Car is stock height.

roadtalontsi

only front and rear toe are adjustable without use of the adjustment bolts. front toe does not affect a pull, mostly just steering wheel position. rear toe sets the thrust angle which is kind of like making sure the front and rear axle run perfectly parallel - think of seeing old beat up work trucks or vans dog walking. Putting those bolts in that car, in the right places allows changes to camber and caster to correct a minor problem or compensate for road crowns. There's also the possiblity of a bad tire or bent wheels causing the pull as well.

Feel free to post specs and ill let you know my thoughts on it. 300$ for the bolts sounds absurd. Most dealers sell them for around 20-25$/each. Most cars usually need 2, but some need none and others need 4. you never know till its on the rack.

Conv_GSDriver

The $300 plus is for the alignment, labor and two bolts. Hopefully it is not something else, the steering wheel is off center.

roadtalontsi

sounds about right then. If it's way off most likely something is bent, if its just a smidge say within 10 degrees your probably ok.

Conv_GSDriver

Thanks everyone for the input.

Conv_GSDriver

I will post the specs when I get the car back.

Conv_GSDriver

instead of typing everything, the scanned results of everything.

roadtalontsi

Looks very neutral. should have a pretty much undetectable pull to the left if you were on a perfectly flat and level road and they tires didnt cause any pulling. If i had to guess it has 2 camber bolts pulled in. Since usually these cars are close to -2* without bolts - your at -1.30ish. According to the alignment specs before and after they only adjusted toe. So if they did install bolts, they threw the bolts in before even throwing it on the rack which is a questionable practice. Your rear toe was out quite aways, car should feel better and have slightly better tire life in the rear.

Conv_GSDriver

so far had not much time to drive it other than the drive back from the dealer. Once i get it on the highway I'll be able to tell more on it. I'm not familiar yet with what the readings should be from factory as compared to what the car had and now has done to it. I think toe was the most important one here to extend tire life. Thanks to every1 for the help.

Mort

Thanks for posting the alignment sheets. They do look pretty neutral and it should handle well.

Those sheets are the first I've seen with C63 specs. My dealer and a non MB rack both had specs for C-Class cars with Sport suspension and the specs are quite a bit different. Nice to have these specs. Thanks.

Conv_GSDriver

No problem friend. I figured that would help best. since google search works better than the search feature on this forum, i'm going to link other threads i found here asking similar info.


https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ent-specs.html


https://mbworld.org/forums/4721002-post9.html


https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ent-specs.html


https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...wered-c63.html


And a little youtube action from the UK

Conv_GSDriver

Just to give an update, I took the car back to the MB dealership again today. The steering wheel is not completely centered, slightly tilts to the right. So when I place it straight, it pulls the car left. So they are working on that again today. The tech took a ride with me in it and agreed with that. Hopefully they can get it centered.