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Bardman, I am in the same place as you with a 507 and V5 tune coming within the next 2 weeks. Would still very much appreciate any updates you can share on the tune (difference it makes for driving and dyno result).
Btw., what did you specify for the tune you wanted? Do they give you options for fuel type it will be optimized for, speed limit and so on?
Sure, I'll definitely update what I can once it gets loaded. I hope it gets sorted out overnight my time tonight (have to wait for an email back from EC).
I specified the following (I didn't get confirmation back on what was/wasn't required info, but they didn't ask for anything more):
- That I had a 507 sedan
- No current mods
- Fuel type
- Elevation above sea level (not sure this is required unless where you live is high up)
I don't think you need to specify speed limit, my understanding is that if there is a limiter in place it just gets removed.
I just got done explaining in a thread that if you plan to mod, just save yourself some money and get a non-pp. ALL of these cars w/ a tune at the end of the day are going to have similar power +/- 5-10 whp.
It doesn't work in the sense that non-pp c63's gain 50whp so pp c63's will also gain 50whp. Non-pp will gain that 50 but pp will only gain 10-20whp.
I find these results to be right on par with what I would expect. Car may even run a little smoother and have a little better mpgs. There are points to tunes other than just power.
I just got done explaining in a thread that if you plan to mod, just save yourself some money and get a non-pp. ALL of these cars w/ a tune at the end of the day are going to have similar power +/- 5-10 whp.
It doesn't work in the sense that non-pp c63's gain 50whp so pp c63's will also gain 50whp. Non-pp will gain that 50 but pp will only gain 10-20whp.
I find these results to be right on par with what I would expect. Car may even run a little smoother and have a little better mpgs. There are points to tunes other than just power.
I just got done explaining in a thread that if you plan to mod, just save yourself some money and get a non-pp. ALL of these cars w/ a tune at the end of the day are going to have similar power +/- 5-10 whp.
It doesn't work in the sense that non-pp c63's gain 50whp so pp c63's will also gain 50whp. Non-pp will gain that 50 but pp will only gain 10-20whp.
I find these results to be right on par with what I would expect. Car may even run a little smoother and have a little better mpgs. There are points to tunes other than just power.
OP - How's the blip?
looking at it this way it makes me realize how impressive the stock HP is on the p31 package
I was able to pull all of the runs together and I think this will give a little better insight into the mods. The biggest gains were throughout the powerband, not peak numbers.
First graph is a back to back run STOCK vs ROW. You can see power really isnt gained until the 2nd half of the RPM band. If you exclude the dip on the baseline, Peak gains were around 8whp and 6tq
Second graph is is the last baseline (heat in engine) vs ROW & Tuned. You can see there was a substantial amount of tq added in the lower RPM range. Max gains here are around 25whp & 30tq
Lastly is the same graph with STD correction if you're into that sort of thing.
So is it that a 2011 C63 P31 from the factory is rated by AMG to run 481hp, at 4 years old has lost something, or are these cars HP overstated by AMG routinely.
Just asking as I am new to the AMG world, and have the same car.
So is it that a 2011 C63 P31 from the factory is rated by AMG to run 481hp, at 4 years old has lost something, or are these cars HP overstated by AMG routinely.
Just asking as I am new to the AMG world, and have the same car.
I dont think its overstated at all, it's just the difference between looking at numbers from the crank vs actual hp at the wheels
theres always a drop off when transferring power from the engine to the rear tires due to numerous factors such as the drive shaft.
These new graphs are very nice, IMO it proves the worth of the tune to get that much extra at the lower end. Dollar for Dollar that consistently is the best mod.
I'm slightly curious what JUST afe filters do in real world vs the afe and row boxes....things you could really only test if you had unlimited dyno time
So is it that a 2011 C63 P31 from the factory is rated by AMG to run 481hp, at 4 years old has lost something, or are these cars HP overstated by AMG routinely.
Just asking as I am new to the AMG world, and have the same car.
As stated above, 481hp is crank HP. IE what the motor does attached directly to a dyno.
Horsepower to the wheels is what's left after parasitic loss through the transmission, rotational mass of the wheels, etc. IE "real world" hp. And even then, that number change from dyno to dyno depending on the brand.
I just got done explaining in a thread that if you plan to mod, just save yourself some money and get a non-pp. ALL of these cars w/ a tune at the end of the day are going to have similar power +/- 5-10 whp.
It doesn't work in the sense that non-pp c63's gain 50whp so pp c63's will also gain 50whp. Non-pp will gain that 50 but pp will only gain 10-20whp.
I find these results to be right on par with what I would expect. Car may even run a little smoother and have a little better mpgs. There are points to tunes other than just power.
So is it that a 2011 C63 P31 from the factory is rated by AMG to run 481hp, at 4 years old has lost something, or are these cars HP overstated by AMG routinely.
Just asking as I am new to the AMG world, and have the same car.
One other interesting thing I noticed after the tune is the dip that happens at 4500rpm. The car looses about 7whp and doesn't regain it again until 4800...
Just for reference (because it has been stated) when you see a sticker say 481hp just automatically multiply that by 85% and that is a BALLPARK guess at the whp you'll put down.
The 20% loss is steep even for AWD cars with the technology in cars today. Things are much more efficient now.
But to answer somebodies questions, no, 481hp is not an overstatement, its a statement of engine power where it meets the tranny. You lose some of that power as it moves through the drive train and makes its way down to the road.
One other interesting thing I noticed after the tune is the dip that happens at 4500rpm. The car looses about 7whp and doesn't regain it again until 4800...
Happened on every tuned run.
Not atypical to have a dip. At 7whp that is only ~1.5% of power or .015. You won't notice that.
Not atypical to have a dip. At 7whp that is only ~1.5% of power or .015. You won't notice that.
Just wondering why the tune caused that. All in all i'm not a big fan of mail order tunes in general since it's impossible to adjust for things like this. Wish tuning was easier for the Euro crowd. My custom LS1 tune, dyno time included was like $300 bucks....
I had a turbo Acura back in the day and I could just plug in my laptop usb, change the timing/fuel maps all day long. With the 63 I feel like I stepped back 20 years with the tuning.
Just wondering why the tune caused that. All in all i'm not a big fan of mail order tunes in general since it's impossible to adjust for things like this. Wish tuning was easier for the Euro crowd. My custom LS1 tune, dyno time included was like $300 bucks....
I had a turbo Acura back in the day and I could just plug in my laptop usb, change the timing/fuel maps all day long. With the 63 I feel like I stepped back 20 years with the tuning.
Why can't we just "self tune" using a laptop do other device? I assumed we could but am new to the MB cars and figured everyone purchased canned tunes for simplicity.
Is there a way to tune the ECU on our own?
Just wondering why the tune caused that. All in all i'm not a big fan of mail order tunes in general since it's impossible to adjust for things like this. Wish tuning was easier for the Euro crowd. My custom LS1 tune, dyno time included was like $300 bucks....
I had a turbo Acura back in the day and I could just plug in my laptop usb, change the timing/fuel maps all day long. With the 63 I feel like I stepped back 20 years with the tuning.
Ya I agree. Seems to be the norm for the C63. Just plug and play and boom tuned. Owners dont seem to have the interest to get a custom tune. I know for sure my C63 is running rich as hell. But not much I can do about it through with my Eurocharged tune. E-tuning would be the easiest for most people who dont have a dyno or tuning shop. Eurocharged should offer this but I feel that they dont because there is no demand for it from customers.
Even my stupid little civic has a more in depth tune than my C63 lol. I had it e-tuned with about 5-6 revisions.
Do you have a catalyst and lambda sensors (O2 sensors), or did you remove them? If you still have them, then the ECU auto - regulates the air to fuel ratio to enable the catalysts to work. If the ratio is off you get a CEL.
Lastly is the same graph with STD correction if you're into that sort of thing.
Actually, this is all that matters. If you don't correct to STD conditions then the run to run can vary as the area around the dyno heats up. The STD correction accounts for this.
09-17-2014, 08:16 AM
