hachiroku

your first initial dose should be at the recommended amount. subsequent maintenance dosing should be at reduced amounts.

1.5 bottles for the first dose, 1 bottle at each subsequent oil change. I just did 1 bottle at every oil change from then get go for ease of use.

as far as CeraTec, run with it before you change the oil for LiquiMoly MoS2

8o8is

I've been running Liqui-Moly's Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40 in my OCI. I've been curious about Ceratec and MoS2 awhile back so I emailed Liqui-Moly themselves. They said that Ceratec was for engines that are MY2000 or newer and the MoS2 is for higher mileage less advanced engines. I've been on BITOG also to verify this but couldn't. Attached is his email:

"The Leitchlauf 5W 40 is the correct matched oil for your vehicle as it has
the spec approval from Mercedes. The two oil additive products, Ceratec and
MoS2 Anti Friction are not to be used together.

Recommendation -

I recommend that you first use our Pro Line Engine Flush to clean your
engine. Process: add the flush into your old oil, run for 10 minutes at
idle, drain out with old oil. This is a gentle but thorough cleansing of
old oil residues and contaminants. (The flush is not mandatory, but ensures
a cleaner motor for the new oil and additive.)

After the drain is complete, THEN, add the new Leitchlauf oil plus add the
Ceratec at the same time together. With a 2010 engine, the Ceratec product
is perfect as it is designed for modern higher tec engines.

For future reference, any motor 2000 and later we recommend Ceratec. The
older engines, the MoS2 is more suitable as the mileage is higher and design
less advanced.

Let me know if you have any further questions!

Thanks for the inquiry and patronage...."

I have a bottle of Ceratec waiting to go in my next OCI.

hachiroku

CeraTec and MoS2 are two different products that do two different things. CeraTec fills in all pits and holes in metal with a protective ceramic material. MoS2 is a surface barrier product which helps with metal to metal contact. For example if your camshafts have scoring due to oil starvation CeraTec would fill in all pits and valley's so you have a larger surface area for oil to create proper loading. MoS2 would provide a protective barrier to help prevent metal to metal contact in extreme or low oil pressure situations.

I did ask LiquiMoly if I should flush my engine in between MoS2 and CeraTec since I haven't used CeraTec. They said it is not necessary to flush or cycle off one product, but they should be run at different times. CeraTec does not need continuous application. I believe it is recommended once a year for vehicles that have OCI of 5k miles but not exactly necessary. For our engines I'd say every 2-5 years.

in regard to LiquiMoly's oil itself, I haven't used their straight oil so I cannot comment on it. The price of it is in the same ballpark as Motul though, so between the two I choose Motul. 4 pack of 5 liter jugs sell for $123 shipped on Amazon which comes out to $30.75 a jug. With prices this cheap there is no reason to just ante up for the best of both worlds.

I personally used to change my oil at 8k and felt I was throwing money down the drain with Motul + LiquiMoly MoS2...I now proceed to 12k oil change intervals. Once 12k elapses with my current oil I'll proceed to submit an oil analysis.

bhamg

I changed oil recently and am extending to 12k also. I'm easy on the oil anyway since typical drives are 20-110 miles so once the oil gets to operating temps it stays there.

8o8is

hachiroku, are you using Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40?

hachiroku

my buddy who owns an Indy has been ordering me Motul 6100 5w-40 from his distributors. His distributors claimed it's a full synthetic. after lots of digging I discovered 6100 is a synthetic blend which is why I ordered 8100 on Amazon. My next oil changes will be with 8100 5w-40, but honestly 6100 is an awesome oil as well being a synthetic blend. Engine feels much better with 6100 than Mobil 1.

AMG3.2

Motil 8100 is amazon prime, and just a couple bucks more than M1.

What do you mean by engine feels better with 6100 than M1?

bhamg

Good call. I bought my stash on eBay but Amazon has a 5ltr jug of Motul 5W-40 X-cess for $33.46 inc. shipping. That's ridiculously cheap.

AMG3.2

I read somewhere on bob the oil guy that it's due to them phasing out 8100, but it's been that price for as long as I can remember on prime so who knows...

hachiroku

Mobil 1 0w-40 felt good the first few days then was down on power. Motul 6100 5w-40 with or without LiquiMoly felt great for the entire period it was in my engine. Being as 6100 from what I learned was a synthetic blend of some sort I am pretty surprised. My next oil change will be with Motul 8100 5w-40. Also, to a few members disagreement, Motul NEVER caused lifter tick/knock which literally sounded like rod knock where as the only Mobil 1 0w-40 oil change interval since my 2 years of ownership did.

Mobil 1 is a great "standard" synthetic oil, but honestly with 8-12k OCI's I'd run the best oil I can find which is Motul 8100 5w-40 and LiquiMoly MoS2. Nobody is doubting the quality and standards set by Mobil 1, we're just saying there is much better oil out there for not much more money.

AMG X

I switched to Motul 8100 5w-40 on my E55 and our F10 550i (that twin turbo is notorious for burning oil) and am never going back to Mobil. I've had Mobil break down after 2-3k miles in any car I've owned. If you drive your car moderately or "spirited" as we would say, then Mobil starts burning. It looks super dark at a 4k oil change interval if you've ever looked at being drained. The 550i has gone almost twice as long before needing any oil added (1.2k miles on mile vs almost 2k with Motul). Btw, BMW says it's normal on that engine lol

hachiroku

thanks for the assurance. when I did run Mobil 1 0w-40, my car after 6k miles needed 2 quarts(if I recall) of oil as the low oil light came on. this has NEVER occurred with Motul 6100 5w-40. people here like to bash saying that is not possible, when it happened exactly as I described.

SonnyAMG

Assuming that AMG oil 229.5 is just a rebranded Mobil 1 oil, can I then mix Mobil 1 0w-40 to top up the car when it getting low?
This is out of curiosity of course.

SuperFastYo

Oh the infamous car forum "Oil Thread". I've seen people lose it in these things. We all know how the old saying goes:

"Mods dread the oil thread"

Diabolis

If you can't buy a bottle of the same oil from the service department at the dealership, and you know that the oil in your sump is the "AMG 229.5 0W-40" oil, then yes, topping up with M1 0W-40 would be your safest bet. If you're using the "MB 229.5" oil (which is made by Shell and is a 5W-40), then topping up with another good 5W-40 oil (in this case Shell Helix if they sell it in your region) would be a better option.

In general, you don't want to mix two different oils unless necessary (i.e. you need to top it up and you don't have a spare bottle of the same oil that's in your sump with you) as the performance of the mix is very likely going to be worse than either of the two oils would on their own. If you have to mix two different oils, then the rule of thumb is that you mix with another approved oil of the same viscosity.

bhamg

It looks like Petronas is supplying the OE factory fill 0W-40 in Europe/Asia.

http://www.mercedes-benz.com.au/cont...ngine-oil.html

https://www.mercedesamgf1.com/en/mer...ronas-feature/

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...pics/4170737/1

hachiroku

if the AMG oil is labeled as racing oil, I'd think they follow the same guidelines as Motul 300V vs 8100 as below.

BLKROKT

The AMG oil is not a 'racing oil'.

bhamg

And if Petronas is supplying/will supply a 5W-40 Syntium to AMG check out #22. It looks to be an excellent product well-suited to hotter climates.

Diabolis

Petronas is a relatively young company (mid-1970s if I'm not mistaken) whose core business is and always has been petroleum and natural gas exploration and extraction. Unlike Exxon or Shell that have been around since the extinction of the dinosaurs (pun intended... OK, the turn of the previous century), Petronas does not have the refining knowledge and expertise accumulated by the older companies over the extra ~125 years, and consequently never seriously got into the lubrication business until they purchased FL Selenia SpA in late 2007 and subsequently formed Petronas Lubricants. Petronas Chemical which makes some of their oil additives was formed in late 2010, at the same time when one of the two production chains at Petronas' Malaka refinery started producing group III hydrocracked base stocks.

In no small part due to the renewal of the Mercedes F1 team title sponsorship agreement for another 10 years (Petronas was previously involved with Sauber and became title sponsor of the BMW Sauber F1 team in 2006 until the team fell apart at the end of 2009), Petronas is finally starting to make some half-decent lubricants that are good enough to make the cut, and as a result of the tens of millions of dollars they're paying Mercedes, slowly make their way into MB's AMG road cars.

From what I've read, the AMG 0W-40 oil is essentially Petronas Synthium 7000, which is made from a fully synthetic PAO stock and is blended at the Sunoco Motor Oils plant near Antwerp, Belgium. Now, if you look at one of the available VOAs on BITOG, in terms of engine protection it is... <gulp>... well, inferior to Mobil1 0W-40. It is even thinner than M1, especially when hot - it's more like a 0W-30 with a hot KV of 12.87 - and has a TBN of 10. It also has lower SAPS and zinc than M1 as well. And, judging by the reported price of $22 per liter as well as the fact that it has a virgin hot KV of 12.87 and needs to pass the KO90 shear stability test to be MB 229.5 approved, someone else who also appears to know about oils on the BITOG thread linked here earlier by bhamg concluded that it uses Infineum's SV200 VI improver... and Infineum, as I am sure we all know, is a company that was formed and is jointly owned by ExxonMobil and Shell to synthesize their lubricant additives. So - Petronas has to buy the "magic" stuff from ExxonMobil / Shell and blend it into their base stock. Yup.

The rest of MB's oil line is still white-label Shell Helix oil AFAIK.

Diabolis

I don't read Russian but can more or less make out what's what on that sheet. What properties listed there make you think that it's going to be a decent oil?

Diabolis

Re race oils vs. street oils - these have very different set of requirements. Anyone can put together a good race oil - all it has to do is last 200 miles at a constant temperature while sustaining heavy shear, plus the engine itself only has to last ~1000 miles. Making an oil suitable for daily driving on the other hand, where it has to work at a range of temperatures, last for thousands of miles and be able to protect the engine for hundred times as long as a racing motor - while it is occasionally also exposed to heavy shear - is a totally different animal that requires a lot more knowledge, R & D and $$$.

Mazspeed

I have had great luck with motul. I like the brand but can you really tell a difference in oil in an engine like these? I have a hard time thinking you can.
I have not read the entire thread, just the last few pages, but Mobil 1 is a good quality oil. I don't see why people should change. unless I am missing something.

hachiroku

yes...you'll feel as your engine has more power. Motul combined with LiquiMoly MoS2 your engine will idle smoother, idle quieter, make more power, and at full throttle sound louder. also you won't feel as though your engine is making less power 500 miles after your oil change. the power will stay consistent until past 8k of normal driving in my testing. i will be running to 12k for this current oil interval.

Jasonoff

Man, I'm tempted to give this combo a try. Although I did just recently do an oil change.