w204nyc

I just hit 50k and my service advisor recommended changing my rotors and pads. I havent gotten the brake wear message but i have noticed a change in stopping distance as well as a little bit of noise from the brakes. I changed my front and rear pads before but never my rotors. Is it about that time? I was quoted for $1,900

papashango

Hard to tell without looking. Do a visual inspection by rubbing fingers on them towards the edge and see how much is the edge protruding. If it's not much then you're probably good. And if 50K is km's then you definitely don't need to change. If it is miles though which puts you around 80K km's, then you might need to.

w204nyc

Yea its 50k miles. I'm getting service A done right now but I will see when I get it back. Just wanted to see what other people were paying for a not PP brakes!

MJ50

don't do it at the stealer... cheaper if done by indy or DIY...

Merc63

Indy for sure. Dealer will give it to you dry.

realjones88

Rotors for the non-PP are about $150 each so you could DIY pads and rotors for maybe half of what the dealer wants for it.

If you don't want to commit totally to new rotors measure the thickness and compare to what the min is that's stamped on them...might be able to get one more pad change out of them.

QWKSNKE

Agreed, a good indy shop will measure and machine the rotors. On average 50k miles is to early for rotors to require replacement (unless the pads have worn to the point that there is no material left and they grooved the rotors)

bhamg

I'm pretty sure your rotors can go another round. OTOH, if you really have burned through two sets of pads in 50k miles, your rotors may in fact be due for replacement if you've braked that aggressively. Mic 'em and see, but I doubt you'll need to replace them. Did you physically change pads yourself? If so, you know it's not difficult. If not, consult the DIY someone prepared a few years ago. Many pad slaps later I've accrued a number of tool/process tips that make changing pads even easier that I should add to that DIY, but a few things I recommend with this car: Don't use ceramic pads if your rotors are noticeably scored...they'll likely squeak and drive you crazy, even with shims. I use EBC Red Stuff pads which are ceramic-kevlar but my rotors were glass-smooth. Whatever pads you use, chamfer both edges of the new pads before installation with a file. And never use sandpaper on pads, new or used.

xxaarraa

It is my understandng that for non-PP C63s, OEM pads cost roughly the same as rotors. Rotors are about $300 a pair, while a set of pads are $240 ish? If that's the case, why bother changing pads? Instead, wouldn't it make sense to just run the pads down and then change rotors and pads together?

I'd rather save time and hassle, if the savings is only $60 bucks.

QWKSNKE

Because pads and rotors wear at a different rate.

'Normally ' you can go 2 life cycles of pads before rotors require replacement. However it is a recommended practice to machine the rotors when replacing pads

w204nyc

Yea I guess I'll just do it myself. Ive changed brake pads and rotors on my VW Touareg but never on the C63. Ive seen it done so maybe it wont be that difficult. Anyone know where I can purchase rotors and pads?

xxaarraa

Yeah, no thanks. You know how much of a hassle it is to take off rotors, put the wheels back on, run to machine shop, get them machined and come back and do everything in reverse? That is if you can find a machine shop anymore that will machine rotors. There aren't any around here in my city.

I am not convinced you can actually get through 2 sets of pads for every set of rotors. And if I have to do pads at 30k, and rotors and pads again at 45-50k (you do have to do pads every time you change rotors), that doesn't make much sense. I'd much rather wear the pads down and do rotors and pads together at 40-45k. Especially considering pads seem to cost almost as much as rotors for non-PP C63s.

solekeeper

since we're discussing brakes, can i replace my PP rotors with regular 1 pieces?

sorry for the threadjack OP. hopefully i can get one direct answer.

realjones88

Yes.

OP, there are many online vendors that sell genuine Mercedes parts: rmeuropean, ecstuning, pelican parts, getmercedesparts, etc.

solekeeper

jones, thank you for the sites! rm european is awesome.

and good to hear, i don't "need" the p31 brakes, so getting the 1 piece is awesome. thanks again

Cherven

does anyone know how to change pads?

I went to not MB shop and they changed front rotors and pads

and then I did service reset (they did oil too).

When I was doing reset I found in service menu you can do some adjustment for brake pads. I clicked on it and my ml 2012 did something, I heard noise in rims area.

after three weeks I noticed that my new rotor wearing not equally and already has a 1.5mm ditch close to out circle.

Question1: What is the procedure to change rotor and pads?

Question2: 1.5mm ditch in 3 weeks. It's not okay. Right?

QWKSNKE

Lol, hassle? Wheels are already off if you are replacing pads. So putting a ratchet on extra 2 bolts to remove each caliper is not a big deal to me. Rotors should be almost ready to fall off at that point.
As an FYI, you do not have to use a machine shop to have rotors turned. Any mechanic shop that does brakes should have a brake lathe. Hell, I will not install brand new rotors without having them machined and "true'd up".
However, I do agree with not replacing pads if they are not worn most of the way down. That is just pissing away money.
My car is at around 90k miles now and rear brakes have started the nuisance of squealing so I have ordered pads. (As far as I know these are still the originals)
I did not order rotors yet because I have never had to replace them on a car with less than 120k miles. We'll see how they mic out next week

papashango

Is this recommended though? What kind affect does it have on performance? Any affect cosmetically by just looking at them? I'd love to be able to replace my PP rotors with the 'regular' rotors and save over $2K when the time comes...but a the same time I don't want the car to be affected in anyway mechanically or cosmetically.

m a x i m u s

One piece is heavier, so there's that. Two piece also dissipates heat at the joint so heats up the hat and therefore hubs less, so there's that too. Cosmetically, you will see that the one piece lacks the hardware that holds the two piece together, but personally I don't care. I'm probably gonna replace my two piecers with the cheaper one piece deals. I love my car, but damn, it's not an F1 car.

realjones88

I would estimate that 80+% of C63s are running the one piece rotor, i.e. every C63 that isn't p30, p31, or aftermarket. It is up to you whether saving $2K is worth some added unsprung weight and what Max mentioned above. I have p31 and will likely switch to the one piece when the time comes.

I really doubt you'd be able to perceive a difference in street driving. Plenty of Porsche guys switch to steel rotors once their ceramics wear out, although the cost difference is much greater so the savings are higher.

HBC350

What's retail on front rotors and pads for a '14 507?

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realjones88

507 uses the same front rotors as p31, which you can buy for about $950 each. The standard one piece rotors found on most C63 are $150. Pads are pads, $250ish or more depending on what brand you go with.

Rear rotors are the same on all C63.

HBC350

No way in hell I'm paying $950 per rotor! Can our 507/PP cars use the less expensive one-piece rotors?

papashango

It was just stated above that yes they can.

I am curious mostly about t he difference in looks between the two. Can someone post pictures of what a 2 piece rotors looks like vs a one piece? I am trying to see how it would look on the car if I went with a one piece instead of 2? Thanks!

And if I am understanding it right

Front 2 piece rotors = $950 EACH
Front 1 piece rotors = $150 EACH

What about the rears? I am assuming the pads are probably around $300 for the set of 4?

And if we change from 2 piece rotors to 1 piece we don't have to change the large red caliper do we?