bhamg

I'm replacing my intake manifold bolts, perhaps as early as tomorrow. Specified torque is 10 Nm+90º+10º. I'll be using Blue Loctite gel, so my plan is 9 Nm, the 90º turn but skipping the additional 10º. The (-1) Nm is to compensate for the lubricating effect of the Loctite and bypassing the last 10º turn due to the fixing action of the Loctite. Or do I still need the bolt stretch of the last 10º turn? Or should I try 8 Nm+90º+10º as I was originally thinking? Opinions are welcome.

Merc63

Degrees don't matter if its lubed or not that's why they say to use degrees, it's more accurate than a torque wrench which reads resistance. The initial 10nm shouldn't matter too much, I'd just follow their procedure. Why the loctite? Are these bolts loosening out?

bhamg

Looking to eliminate the possibility of new bolts loosening.

Merc63

Ya but why is there a known problem with them loosening? Isn't that the point of stretching them? I'd say a dab of blue can't hurt anything.

roadtalontsi

go all the way. I dont think the original spec had the + 10* which really is barely tighter. I've never used loctite but i dont think it'll hurt anything.

bhamg

OK, thanks guys, I'll do the 3-step.

ToXicXxX

Those bolts can take a hell of a beating before they snap, but don't ask me how I know that... But yeah, they are TTY, locktite or none is irrelevant.

Heres the AllData S3000 bulletin on it:

Attachment 445398
Attachment 445399

Attachment 445400

I actually blew some of the *******s out with a little afterfiring.

bhamg

Good to know. I was probably obsessing a little unnecessarily because they don't actually look and feel that strong to me.