C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015

New battery

Old 03-30-2015, 05:15 PM
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'16 Lexus GS F '18 M5
New battery

I need a new battery for my C63...any thoughts. Also I understand its in the trunk but have never seen or looked for it. Suggest self install? Not excited about the guys at Sears touching my car. I'm guessing there are better batteries out there than the ones MB dealer sells.
Old 03-30-2015, 05:18 PM
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Optima Red/Yellow tops are generally considered among the best, if not the best. Been thinking about replacing mine with one, but have to take some time to consider the mounting, because they are not just 'drop in'. The MB OE battery is a somewhat unusual shape and size.

I know a lot of guys here run Braille in an effort to reduce weight (although in the exact spot you don't want to, but that's another discussion). Not sure how stout they are in terms of charging/CCA capacity.
Old 03-30-2015, 05:40 PM
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2014 E63 AMGs, 2015 F-150 Lariat, 2010 Porsche C4S
Originally Posted by amg4rl
I need a new battery for my C63...any thoughts. Also I understand its in the trunk but have never seen or looked for it. Suggest self install? Not excited about the guys at Sears touching my car. I'm guessing there are better batteries out there than the ones MB dealer sells.


Lots of previous discussion here:


https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...placement.html
Old 03-30-2015, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
I know a lot of guys here run Braille in an effort to reduce weight (although in the exact spot you don't want to, but that's another discussion). Not sure how stout they are in terms of charging/CCA capacity.


I would pass on Braille unless you're tracking the car. They're really not intended for daily use.
Old 03-30-2015, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Valvestud



Thanks, I'll check this out! Previous thread says Interstate is the OEM for my battery?

Last edited by amg4rl; 03-30-2015 at 05:55 PM. Reason: new info
Old 03-30-2015, 06:37 PM
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I've looked at mine once or twice and wouldn't think twice about changing it on my own. Lift the spare tire cover and check it out.
Old 03-30-2015, 06:54 PM
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I just actually changed my car battery myself 4 weeks ago.
Bought the oem battery from dealer. Removed start button from ignition. Lifted the back board. Unplug positive first, then negative. Unplug moisture/gas tube. THE BATTERY IS ONE HECK OF A HEAVY BRICK. I did it on my own but be careful. Attached negative first, then positive. Clamped back down. Connect the moisture/gas tube. All set. No issues.
Old 03-30-2015, 08:01 PM
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2012 C63 P31 sedan
Replacing the battery is a ten minute DIY. The OEM part number is 0055411001 and it is a H8 AGM type battery.

The Mercedes is likely just a rebranded battery anyway, but if you don't want to just get another OEM one, I believe the following are direct replacements as well:

Duralast H8 AGM
Interstate MTP-49H8A
AutoCraft Platinum AGM H8
etc. anything H8 AGM

I would recommend getting one of the above direct fit (or just a new Mercedes one), but the bracket that holds the battery in place is adjustable if you get something that is a little bit of a different size. If you are under warranty or have had $100 in recent dealer work done I believe Mercedes roadside assistance will come install a new battery for $175 including labor.

Last edited by realjones88; 03-30-2015 at 08:08 PM.
Old 03-30-2015, 08:20 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback and the part numbers!
Old 03-31-2015, 02:45 AM
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Originally Posted by ZephyrAMG
I just actually changed my car battery myself 4 weeks ago.
Bought the oem battery from dealer. Removed start button from ignition. Lifted the back board. Unplug positive first, then negative. Unplug moisture/gas tube. THE BATTERY IS ONE HECK OF A HEAVY BRICK. I did it on my own but be careful. Attached negative first, then positive. Clamped back down. Connect the moisture/gas tube. All set. No issues.
I believe it's always recommended to do the opposite of what you said. Always disconnect the negative cable first, then the positive. They never really say, but basically if you disconnect the positive first and your tool ends up touching the car, watch out, you've got a direct short and the sparks fly. When you disconnect the negative first and end up touching the body, nothing happens. Just safer to do the negative first then positive. Installation is the reverse, positive first, then the negative.

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