C63 Bad rear noise
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C63 Amg PP coupé
C63 Bad rear noise
Hi everyone,
I'm flavien, from France i used to read this forum for months now since i got my new car, you've such a good community here
Well, i'm here to ask you about a problem i have, when i drive i can hear a noise with could happen when i turn or a light bad road, it would rarely happen on really really bad road, i don't know why... the noise is situated from the rear, driver side( maybe the same noise on passenger side but lighter)
And a second noise with is situated on the rear again, always passenger side when i have the right foot a bit heavy... especially when the gearbox shifts up or shifts down, but could occur when the shift still engaged and i accelerate.
I uploaded two videos for you, maybe it could help
My car still in warranty, but my local dealer took it 2 times and can't figure it out, the looked everywhere they could, checked all the screws( they said) and nothing noticeable!
The car is with the LSD, maybe that's the point, maybe it's broken.. Despite this, no big problems at all, the c63 is very good car, my first sport car and this is pure orgasm and eargasm driving it
Thank you in advance guys!
sorry for the grammar mistakes i could made
Regards,
Flavien
I made a mistake by posting it in tech section, could a moderator delete it?
Thanks!
I'm flavien, from France i used to read this forum for months now since i got my new car, you've such a good community here
Well, i'm here to ask you about a problem i have, when i drive i can hear a noise with could happen when i turn or a light bad road, it would rarely happen on really really bad road, i don't know why... the noise is situated from the rear, driver side( maybe the same noise on passenger side but lighter)
And a second noise with is situated on the rear again, always passenger side when i have the right foot a bit heavy... especially when the gearbox shifts up or shifts down, but could occur when the shift still engaged and i accelerate.
I uploaded two videos for you, maybe it could help
My car still in warranty, but my local dealer took it 2 times and can't figure it out, the looked everywhere they could, checked all the screws( they said) and nothing noticeable!
The car is with the LSD, maybe that's the point, maybe it's broken.. Despite this, no big problems at all, the c63 is very good car, my first sport car and this is pure orgasm and eargasm driving it
Thank you in advance guys!
sorry for the grammar mistakes i could made
Regards,
Flavien
I made a mistake by posting it in tech section, could a moderator delete it?
Thanks!
#2
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Hey buddy as I told you on PL lounge the nose is difficult to pinpoint in the videos. Should we look for a tapping , clicking or grinding sound?
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Hi abcut, in the first video the noise is between 10 and 12 sec and in the second it's right after the beginning of the vid, the metallic one
Hope this help
Hope this help
#5
I can't tell what the noise is from these , is it a popping or grinding?
I had rear suspension pops under quick acceleration had the struts replaced and solved that issue though now it squeaks when I pull into my driveway Damned if you do damned if you don't sometimes
I had rear suspension pops under quick acceleration had the struts replaced and solved that issue though now it squeaks when I pull into my driveway Damned if you do damned if you don't sometimes
#7
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It is a ticking sound. Metal to metal.
If it is coming from the rear I would say check your brakes for loose pads or else. Check your springs (but I doubt) to see if they are sitting in correct position. Do you have LSD?
As asked above is it at slow speed only? When turning or straight?
If it is coming from the rear I would say check your brakes for loose pads or else. Check your springs (but I doubt) to see if they are sitting in correct position. Do you have LSD?
As asked above is it at slow speed only? When turning or straight?
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#8
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This sound is i think a popping one...
Abcut: yes for the brakes, thats whats my dealer thought first, the put on some clips they said to maintain the cable or i don't know what, can't remember, they also checked all the screw on the calipers.
Yes i have the LSD and yes it could happen by turning straight but not only for example i got a little curbstone to enter my garage, i hear it not everytime but most of the time( this is not for the metallic noise this one )
Lets talk about LSD, i have an appointment tomorrow morning, even if i bought the car from merc dealer, my local one have a doubt if it has been flushed even once, i hope the merc dealer who sold me the car checked this before( they are far from me) so my local one will flush it, anyway for this i have a 2 years warranty and it's included. My noises could be a symptom of a dead LSD?
Abcut: yes for the brakes, thats whats my dealer thought first, the put on some clips they said to maintain the cable or i don't know what, can't remember, they also checked all the screw on the calipers.
Yes i have the LSD and yes it could happen by turning straight but not only for example i got a little curbstone to enter my garage, i hear it not everytime but most of the time( this is not for the metallic noise this one )
Lets talk about LSD, i have an appointment tomorrow morning, even if i bought the car from merc dealer, my local one have a doubt if it has been flushed even once, i hope the merc dealer who sold me the car checked this before( they are far from me) so my local one will flush it, anyway for this i have a 2 years warranty and it's included. My noises could be a symptom of a dead LSD?
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SO! Morning duty!
For the non metallic noise i reproduced it without driving quite easily while lifting up my car to put it on jack stands this morning, here's a video! ideas ? springs?
at 9' you'll notice a hard noise mixed with the current noise of car, it's just me hitting the wall with the hydraulic jack lol
for the metallic noise, could not reproduce it, no bad noise from the rear diff, only the wheels quite hard to move but maybe it's normal with the limited slip and only one side was on jack stands
For the non metallic noise i reproduced it without driving quite easily while lifting up my car to put it on jack stands this morning, here's a video! ideas ? springs?
for the metallic noise, could not reproduce it, no bad noise from the rear diff, only the wheels quite hard to move but maybe it's normal with the limited slip and only one side was on jack stands
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Bad news, today i was at a red light, pop CEL came on( i got it once last week)... So i visit my dealer, as the last week it's, well i don't know hoot say in english but maybe you'll understand, it's the mix air/fuel with is too low; maybe an air leak somewhere, no obd2 code, i forgot to ask them lol... as reading other posts concerning CEL's, this morning i fill up the car until the very end, after the clic, is it a reason? the last week the CEL came on after a fill up too, after driving the approximately same amount of kilometers. and this week end took the car for 500Kms and no CEL, quite annoying anyway the car is going to the dealer tomorrow morning for the rear diff flush and they'll investigate this at the same time!
last word: they said for the rear noise, it could be the ball bearings!
I keep you informed
last word: they said for the rear noise, it could be the ball bearings!
I keep you informed
#11
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Well you barely moved the wheel and it did that click. For me looks like a faulty bearing at the rear diff. Since you'll be flushing it tomorrow ask them to check it. As a FYI LSD is supposed to have its first service at 1800 or so miles from new. Then you can do it again at the same time you flush your tranny (35k miles). So right about the mileage you are at. Or by time period if you don't drive much.
That would be a good idea to get the fault code. But most likely you filled up your tank with bad gas. If you have a leak than your car will be lean (too much air not enough fuel) and the cause could be several things. So get the code and we'll be able to point you the right direction.
That would be a good idea to get the fault code. But most likely you filled up your tank with bad gas. If you have a leak than your car will be lean (too much air not enough fuel) and the cause could be several things. So get the code and we'll be able to point you the right direction.
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I'll ask them tomorrow for the rear diff and ask them for the code too, an indication: i have a whistle ( wich has always be there since i had the car but now maybe stronger with higher outside temperature and sometimes disapear like magic)coming from the front on the engine situated at the front limit of the intake manifold near the 2 valves, i hope it's not my intake manifold wich is dead... This whistle could be a result of the CEL? If there is an air leak my engine should be bad are idle or something?
My car seems not to be lean... I have any elements of comparison, this still blazing fast i couldnt make a difference i think!
I keep you informed!
My car seems not to be lean... I have any elements of comparison, this still blazing fast i couldnt make a difference i think!
I keep you informed!
Last edited by jellyheadz; 04-21-2015 at 01:09 PM.
#13
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I'll ask them tomorrow for the rear diff and ask them for the code too, an indication: i have a whistle coming from the front on the engine situated at the front limit of the intake manifold near the 2 valves, i hope it's not my intake manifold wich is dead... This whistle could be a result of the CEL? If there is an air leak my engine should be bad are idle or something?
My car seems not to be lean... I have any elements of comparison, this still blazing fast i couldnt make a difference i think!
I keep you informed!
My car seems not to be lean... I have any elements of comparison, this still blazing fast i couldnt make a difference i think!
I keep you informed!
Your CEL might be the result of that condition. Is your car revving high at idle? Like 1000+ rpm?
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Well sounds like your intake manifold gasket needs a replacement. And in this case your car will run lean. But it won't necessarily affect your performance. The ECU will compensate to a certain extend for the "lack" of fuel. So you might do more trips to the gas station.
Your CEL might be the result of that condition. Is your car revving high at idle? Like 1000+ rpm?
Your CEL might be the result of that condition. Is your car revving high at idle? Like 1000+ rpm?
Last edited by jellyheadz; 04-21-2015 at 01:13 PM.
#15
So you have possible bad intake gasket and wheel bearings? Damn
Thankfully my noise is isolated to the rear over bumps and inclines
Hope you're under warranty still
Thankfully my noise is isolated to the rear over bumps and inclines
Hope you're under warranty still
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Hopefully, yes!! This is a pre owned car but i bought it at merc dealer With a 2yr warranty by mercedes directly( unlimited kilometers except injectors 100000kms) and it covers many things such as all parts of the engine so the intake manifold should be under warranty.
The rear diff is also covered!
#17
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Ok. on my 09 sedan I didn't have any whistling noise but my rpm was slightly above 1000. I had the P0171 code. Checked MAFs/airboxes/PCV but still the issue was there. Took it to the dealer for a service and ask them to check for leak. It was the gasket slowly leaking. Problem got fixed.
Hopefully yours will be as straight forward. GL
Hopefully yours will be as straight forward. GL
#18
Hopefully, yes!! This is a pre owned car but i bought it at merc dealer With a 2yr warranty by mercedes directly( unlimited kilometers except injectors 100000kms) and it covers many things such as all parts of the engine so the intake manifold should be under warranty.
The rear diff is also covered!
The rear diff is also covered!
I had my rear suspension replaced under warranty right before the factory one ran out, after market warranty would cover most anything but you get deductibles and delays waiting for approval of the work
If your serv teams good thell get it done right
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Ok. on my 09 sedan I didn't have any whistling noise but my rpm was slightly above 1000. I had the P0171 code. Checked MAFs/airboxes/PCV but still the issue was there. Took it to the dealer for a service and ask them to check for leak. It was the gasket slowly leaking. Problem got fixed.
Hopefully yours will be as straight forward. GL
Hopefully yours will be as straight forward. GL
You're covered then
I had my rear suspension replaced under warranty right before the factory one ran out, after market warranty would cover most anything but you get deductibles and delays waiting for approval of the work
If your serv teams good thell get it done right
I had my rear suspension replaced under warranty right before the factory one ran out, after market warranty would cover most anything but you get deductibles and delays waiting for approval of the work
If your serv teams good thell get it done right
Results tomorrow!!
Hope it will fix as soon as possible!
Abcut, is it a long work for them changing intake manifold gasket?
i'm going in my garage record a video of the noise! coming back in 10 minutes
Last edited by jellyheadz; 04-21-2015 at 01:40 PM.
#20
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It could be code P0174 depending on which bank is the leak.
Repair can be as long as one day not to actually change the gasket but to check if everything is sealed properly afterwards. They might drive it for little while.
Repair can be as long as one day not to actually change the gasket but to check if everything is sealed properly afterwards. They might drive it for little while.
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Here are 2 videos:
I show it where it seems to be situated
the shutting noise is coming from exactly where the whistle is^^and this noise is not new^^
the hottest the engine is the higher will be the noise
maybe you can also notice my purge valve making some noise tic tic tic you can feel it when you touch it
the shutting noise is coming from exactly where the whistle is^^and this noise is not new^^
the hottest the engine is the higher will be the noise
maybe you can also notice my purge valve making some noise tic tic tic you can feel it when you touch it
Last edited by jellyheadz; 04-21-2015 at 02:14 PM.
#22
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Sorry if i missed it as i skimmed through this thread.
Are those factory wheels on your car?
Are they factory lug bolts?
I had a tapping sound in my car from using lug bolts that were 1mm longer than factory.
It was just enough to tap a part of the emergency brake components.
Are those factory wheels on your car?
Are they factory lug bolts?
I had a tapping sound in my car from using lug bolts that were 1mm longer than factory.
It was just enough to tap a part of the emergency brake components.
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Sorry if i missed it as i skimmed through this thread.
Are those factory wheels on your car?
Are they factory lug bolts?
I had a tapping sound in my car from using lug bolts that were 1mm longer than factory.
It was just enough to tap a part of the emergency brake components.
Are those factory wheels on your car?
Are they factory lug bolts?
I had a tapping sound in my car from using lug bolts that were 1mm longer than factory.
It was just enough to tap a part of the emergency brake components.
For the whistling: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-m156-e63.html what do you think?But my engine serial number seems not be concerned
Last edited by jellyheadz; 04-21-2015 at 02:23 PM.
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Fresh news from my dealer, the told me they will replace a valve ( it seems to be the shut off valve, you know the valves in front of the engine when you pull down the engine trim) and a ball bearing in the left rear wheel ( driver side, left handed ) this valve seems to be the result of the CEL, will take back my car tomorrow! keep you informed guys
#25
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Ok you had the secondary air pump fault code probably. Because these shut off valves are for the 2nd air pump system. Used usually during cold start to inject more air as the air fuel mixture tends to be rich. What could happen is these valves can remain stuck open. I think the whistling sound is your secondary pump working constantly.
This has nothing to do with the pcv valve.
This has nothing to do with the pcv valve.