C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015

UPD Adjustable Rear Suspension Arms - Toe and Camber

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Old 04-20-2015, 09:33 AM
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UPD Adjustable Rear Suspension Arms - Toe and Camber

The UPD suspension kits development and testing is complete and is available for sale for many different AMG`s and non AMG models. We have kits in stock to fit all years of W204 and C63 from 2008-2014.

More traction, even tire wear, improved handling, better braking and firm muscular road feel are some of the features attained with the new UPD rear suspension kit. Mildly lowered cars and cars with larger tires can quickly adjust suspension back to factory or custom alignments. Stock suspension and on lowered cars, tires tend to wear out the inside patch of your $300.00+ dollar tires every 4000 miles. With the UPD suspension kit, abnormal tire wear can be tuned out with quick on the car adjustments.

With more tire contact on the ground creating better traction, your car will be faster from a dig or a roll. We have seen from a 30-100 mph roll, up to .4 tenths quicker time by improving traction , reducing rolling resistance with better toe angles and less tire wobble.


The factory camber and toe arms are made with soft rubber bushings that allow a plush mushy luxury ride and compounded by age and use, you get toe and camber wobble.
Features:

*Full heavy duty, adjustable race camber and toe arm kit

* 6061 aircraft grade, 1.25" hexagon aluminum

* Massive 3/4" adjustable chrome molly rod ends

* Self lubricating, self sealing , injected nylon races

* Easy to adjust toe and camber settings while on the car

* Over 26000 lbs radial static load rated rod ends

* One year warranty

Price $ 799


Last edited by shardul; 04-20-2015 at 10:04 AM.
Old 04-20-2015, 11:33 AM
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What exactly is included at that price? All 4 pieces shown included? I presume 1 pair are camber and the other are for toe? Forgive my ignorance.

Last edited by Hans Grenade; 04-20-2015 at 12:06 PM. Reason: New info
Old 04-20-2015, 12:00 PM
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Reading up on this in the W211 forum (seems you have never made any product for the C63 ). Could you give a little more info on the construction, and if the chassis-end is a fixed link or spherical. Seems some members had problems with the latter. And your "4 tenths" quicker time 30-100 is backed up with a Vbox or similar? Thanks.
Old 04-20-2015, 12:11 PM
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Do the rear camber arms work with the level sensor for our cars with lighting package (xenon head lights)?

The reason I'm asking is, because the level sensor is attached to the stock camber arms. I don't see any holes or brackets which the level sensor would attach to on the above shown arms.
Old 04-20-2015, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by sventastic82
Do the rear camber arms work with the level sensor for our cars with lighting package (xenon head lights)?

The reason I'm asking is, because the level sensor is attached to the stock camber arms. I don't see any holes or brackets which the level sensor would attach to on the above shown arms.
This is more of education for me, but this is for a rear kit. I thought those sensors you are talking about would only be mounted on the fronts. Are these sensors on front and rear arms as well?
Old 04-20-2015, 02:41 PM
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Interesting, might consider this to replace my current K-mac setup. The bushing noise is starting to get to me.
Old 04-20-2015, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Conv_GSDriver
This is more of education for me, but this is for a rear kit. I thought those sensors you are talking about would only be mounted on the fronts. Are these sensors on front and rear arms as well?
Yes they are also on the rear camber arm. See pic. The two holes are for the attachment of the sensor.
Old 04-20-2015, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Reading up on this in the W211 forum (seems you have never made any product for the C63 ). Could you give a little more info on the construction, and if the chassis-end is a fixed link or spherical. Seems some members had problems with the latter. And your "4 tenths" quicker time 30-100 is backed up with a Vbox or similar? Thanks.
Product is made from 1.25" hex 6061 aluminum and then hard anodized. This gives you a strong , light and durable product. Rod ends are 3/4" chrome moly and rated at 27000 psi. You could hang 10 C63 class cars from one rod end

Straight line performance gains come from a dig to 1/4 mile runs and by tuning your toe and camber angles, allow a lot larger tire patch contact to the ground. Adjusting camber angles and also less toe, allows tires to roll easier/quicker. 1/4 mile and vbox test will show improvements and how verify your suspension tune changes. lowered cars have a lot less tire contact than stock.

Bottom, line is a adjustable suspension kit will allow the suspension to react quicker and most of all give you options on tuning your rear suspension to meet your needs. May it be handling , 1/4 mile or just saving a ton of cash on un-even tire wear.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.

CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

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Old 04-20-2015, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by sventastic82
Do the rear camber arms work with the level sensor for our cars with lighting package (xenon head lights)?

The reason I'm asking is, because the level sensor is attached to the stock camber arms. I don't see any holes or brackets which the level sensor would attach to on the above shown arms.
Checking on the option for you and either way, will adapt any options to work with the suspension kits to meet your needs.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.

CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
Old 04-20-2015, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sventastic82
Yes they are also on the rear camber arm. See pic. The two holes are for the attachment of the sensor.
Thanks for clearing that.
Old 04-20-2015, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55
Product is made from 1.25" hex 6061 aluminum and then hard anodized. This gives you a strong , light and durable product. Rod ends are 3/4" chrome moly and rated at 27000 psi. You could hang 10 C63 class cars from one rod end

Straight line performance gains come from a dig to 1/4 mile runs and by tuning your toe and camber angles, allow a lot larger tire patch contact to the ground. Adjusting camber angles and also less toe, allows tires to roll easier/quicker. 1/4 mile and vbox test will show improvements and how verify your suspension tune changes. lowered cars have a lot less tire contact than stock.

Bottom, line is a adjustable suspension kit will allow the suspension to react quicker and most of all give you options on tuning your rear suspension to meet your needs. May it be handling , 1/4 mile or just saving a ton of cash on un-even tire wear.
You didn't even answer my question. Forget it.
Old 04-20-2015, 09:44 PM
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I see a lot of "more," "better," "faster," "bigger," with no real back up. What specifically is improved and to what degree. So far, they just look like bling.
Old 04-20-2015, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Euler
I see a lot of "more," "better," "faster," "bigger," with no real back up. What specifically is improved and to what degree. So far, they just look like bling.
This isn't some new vaporware technology. It is a tried and true solution to an old problem, just made to fit these chassis.

This kind of hardware (not necessarily this brand, but these kinds of adjustable arms) just address simple physics and geometry. The bigger the rubber patch on the ground, the better your traction - that's physics. When you drop a car on its existing control arms the tires sit on the inner edges - that's geometry. Tires on their edges don't grip as well - physics again. And they wear faster.

Race cars aren't just lowered on their existing mount points like so many "tuned" street cars. They have exactly this kind of hardware in the rear, plus camber and castor plates in the front to get alignment back where it should be.

Negative camber at a road course (track) makes sense because the cornering forces lean the loaded tires back to straight with full contact. Without negative camber at the track you get poor traction and excessive outer edge wear because the outside tire is pushed over toward the sidewall. Most race cars run 3.5 to 5 degrees negative

Negative camber doesn't make sense on the street. I wouldn't go more than half degree rear or full degree on the front for day to day use.

****ed up toe doesn't make sense anywhere, not even on a camel, yet that's what a lot of lowered street cars have.

You don't need this if your car is stock height, but if you have lowered it you need this or something like it. What is really "bling" is lowering a highly engineered German car to a point that the existing suspension components leave the wheels canted at bizarre angels that actually hurt performance.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:51 PM
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^ True. The concept is no doubt sound. However you can't go around saying that "from a 30-100 mph roll, up to .4 tenths quicker time" without anything to back it up. That's just a pure bull**** statement right there.

Further, I'd like to know exactly what type of bushing they are using, as there have been some problems with the spherical vs fixed.

Without any previous user experience with this group seen on this or any other forum with the W204 C63, I'd like some more clarity before considering this as a solution vs KMAC or Agency Power.

Neither question was answered. Just more "marketingspeak". This is what the previous poster, and I, were pointing out.
Old 04-20-2015, 11:09 PM
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^^^Fair questions, but I would think as long as they install cleanly and then don't break they would be as good as any other option. I have been researching arms in the last week, and while there are a few makers of adjustable camber arms, this is the first I have seen with adjustable toe as well.

All the camber arms look pretty similar except some have rubber bushings and a couple have spherical bearings. The K-Mac bushings do not sound attractive based upon what I have read, and I will leave my comments at that.

I'd like to see your questions answered about earlier problems. However, there are some positive things written on the 211 forum too.

I personnaly don't care if dialing your alignment properly gives .1 or .4 in a straight line, because in truth that answer really depends on just how f**cked up the alignment was before these were installed. I think it is a bit of a distraction.

All I want are arms that allow me to dial in camber and toe properly, and then not have it break. These particular arms sure *LOOK* over-engineered to the naked eye. If I lower my car (which is likely) this or something like it will be part of the job.

Last edited by Hans Grenade; 04-20-2015 at 11:12 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:49 PM
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if you think your kmac bushings are loud wait till you use some of these on a street/daily car that see's weather. lol. The toe arms are totally pointless you already have around 3 degrees of adjustment from the factory which is really 2 degrees more than necessary. The camber arms are fine and dandy, but I dont agree with what hans mentioned about a street car only need to run -.5* of camber in the rear. Do you realize the c63 runs -2* front and -2.5* rear STOCK. There is a reason they designed the car this way. You dont know what people are doing with their c63's. Sure some live in the concrete jungle of the city, but some live in the mountains, curvy roads or go out of their way to use the handling the car provides. c63's werent meant to be drag cars. If they were they wouldnt be 4dr, barely fit 265 rear tires, weight 3900lbs etc...
Old 04-21-2015, 12:45 AM
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If thats the case, then I'll keep lubbing my bushings. lol
Old 04-21-2015, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by roadtalontsi
if you think your kmac bushings are loud wait till you use some of these on a street/daily car that see's weather. lol. The toe arms are totally pointless you already have around 3 degrees of adjustment from the factory which is really 2 degrees more than necessary. The camber arms are fine and dandy, but I dont agree with what hans mentioned about a street car only need to run -.5* of camber in the rear. Do you realize the c63 runs -2* front and -2.5* rear STOCK. There is a reason they designed the car this way. You dont know what people are doing with their c63's. Sure some live in the concrete jungle of the city, but some live in the mountains, curvy roads or go out of their way to use the handling the car provides. c63's werent meant to be drag cars. If they were they wouldnt be 4dr, barely fit 265 rear tires, weight 3900lbs etc...
I live in downtown Atlanta and unfortunately don't get to many miles on the twisties. The last car I had with a lot of neg camber in the rear was a late 90's 540i. I dialed it out bc I was getting about 5000 miles out of my rear tires.

Question though, are you saying the factory adjustment can get a lowered car to zero toe? If so, that is good to know.

And if noise is an issue, what do you think about the aftermarket adjustable arms with rubber bushings? Better?
Old 04-21-2015, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Hans Grenade
This isn't some new vaporware technology. It is a tried and true solution to an old problem, just made to fit these chassis.

This kind of hardware (not necessarily this brand, but these kinds of adjustable arms) just address simple physics and geometry. The bigger the rubber patch on the ground, the better your traction - that's physics. When you drop a car on its existing control arms the tires sit on the inner edges - that's geometry. Tires on their edges don't grip as well - physics again. And they wear faster.

Race cars aren't just lowered on their existing mount points like so many "tuned" street cars. They have exactly this kind of hardware in the rear, plus camber and castor plates in the front to get alignment back where it should be.

Negative camber at a road course (track) makes sense because the cornering forces lean the loaded tires back to straight with full contact. Without negative camber at the track you get poor traction and excessive outer edge wear because the outside tire is pushed over toward the sidewall. Most race cars run 3.5 to 5 degrees negative

Negative camber doesn't make sense on the street. I wouldn't go more than half degree rear or full degree on the front for day to day use.

****ed up toe doesn't make sense anywhere, not even on a camel, yet that's what a lot of lowered street cars have.

You don't need this if your car is stock height, but if you have lowered it you need this or something like it. What is really "bling" is lowering a highly engineered German car to a point that the existing suspension components leave the wheels canted at bizarre angels that actually hurt performance.
Well said and written! To answer your question in your post below.

1) All the kits go out with Spherical rods ends on both ends, just like in the big picture Shardul posted in the opening thread for all to see. If you want fixed ends or something custom, PM me or Shardul. In the last 10 years or so, quality rod ends are quiet, self lubricating and injected with nylon and other materials to make them durable.

(From the opening thread) * Self lubricating, self sealing , injected nylon races



2) We do find stock cars benefit from being able to adjust toe and camber, since MB tends to lock in a lot of camber , that still creates more inner tire wear. Also the suspension sags with some wear and tear, making camber angles more negative.

Below is how I run my toe and camber on my CL55 but others with 204, 211, 212 and 220 class make all kinds of custom adjustments. Some people want the VIP look and that is where you rake the camber angle in as extreme as possible. For me, I like straight line racing, like Texas mile, 1/4 mile or half mile runs, so I like the least amount of rolling resistance as possible.

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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.

CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

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Old 04-23-2015, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Hans Grenade
I live in downtown Atlanta and unfortunately don't get to many miles on the twisties. The last car I had with a lot of neg camber in the rear was a late 90's 540i. I dialed it out bc I was getting about 5000 miles out of my rear tires.

Question though, are you saying the factory adjustment can get a lowered car to zero toe? If so, that is good to know.

And if noise is an issue, what do you think about the aftermarket adjustable arms with rubber bushings? Better?
yes a normal lowered car has more than enough adjustment to zero the rear toe. Now if you are bagged and tucking with some awful hella flush garbage rocking -10 camber than no it probably wont zero out. I have no experience with those bushings but i would think they work fine. These arms are probably easier to adjust but no heim joint was ever intended for long term weather elements and normal daily street use.
Old 02-08-2018, 11:57 AM
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Just wanted to bump an old thread to clear something up. I still stand by my original post about claiming specific increased acceleration times etc from these without any supporting data. BUT... since I’m using the car almost exclusively for track events now, I needed more adjustability in rear up top to tuck the wheels under the fenders more (in combination with the KMAC lower bushings I should still get my desired -3* of camber). Just got the toe arms and they are BEAUTIFUL. Seriously beefy (yes they are over-engineered to answer a previous question), really very impressed with these. Upper control arms get here tomorrow which are angled to fit, and were impossible for someone like me to cobble together from spare parts. If the sphericals ever wear out, all it takes is screwing in a new one. I likey.

See, I can admit where I’m wrong. Thanks to Shardul for the quick and easy transaction, this is exactly what I needed.
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Old 02-08-2018, 01:08 PM
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Nice, thanks for the follow-up I used to make similar parts for the S2000 and without handling these, I think they look well made.
Old 02-08-2018, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Just wanted to bump an old thread to clear something up. I still stand by my original post about claiming specific increased acceleration times etc from these without any supporting data. BUT... since I知 using the car almost exclusively for track events now, I needed more adjustability in rear up top to tuck the wheels under the fenders more (in combination with the KMAC lower bushings I should still get my desired -3* of camber). Just got the toe arms and they are BEAUTIFUL. Seriously beefy (yes they are over-engineered to answer a previous question), really very impressed with these. Upper control arms get here tomorrow which are angled to fit, and were impossible for someone like me to cobble together from spare parts. If the sphericals ever wear out, all it takes is screwing in a new one. I likey.

See, I can admit where I知 wrong. Thanks to Shardul for the quick and easy transaction, this is exactly what I needed.
Are you replacing the ones you put together yourself from the parts on the Internet? I am guessing your only replacing the rear as these offer both upper and lower arms?
Old 02-08-2018, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Just wanted to bump an old thread to clear something up. I still stand by my original post about claiming specific increased acceleration times etc from these without any supporting data. BUT... since I知 using the car almost exclusively for track events now, I needed more adjustability in rear up top to tuck the wheels under the fenders more (in combination with the KMAC lower bushings I should still get my desired -3* of camber). Just got the toe arms and they are BEAUTIFUL. Seriously beefy (yes they are over-engineered to answer a previous question), really very impressed with these. Upper control arms get here tomorrow which are angled to fit, and were impossible for someone like me to cobble together from spare parts. If the sphericals ever wear out, all it takes is screwing in a new one. I likey.

See, I can admit where I知 wrong. Thanks to Shardul for the quick and easy transaction, this is exactly what I needed.
Now you just need to fit a Vbox and confirm whether your car is 0.4 seconds quicker.
Old 02-09-2018, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Just wanted to bump an old thread to clear something up. I still stand by my original post about claiming specific increased acceleration times etc from these without any supporting data. BUT... since I知 using the car almost exclusively for track events now, I needed more adjustability in rear up top to tuck the wheels under the fenders more (in combination with the KMAC lower bushings I should still get my desired -3* of camber). Just got the toe arms and they are BEAUTIFUL. Seriously beefy (yes they are over-engineered to answer a previous question), really very impressed with these. Upper control arms get here tomorrow which are angled to fit, and were impossible for someone like me to cobble together from spare parts. If the sphericals ever wear out, all it takes is screwing in a new one. I likey.

See, I can admit where I知 wrong. Thanks to Shardul for the quick and easy transaction, this is exactly what I needed.
Hey Jim. I got your message. Would this pull my rear wheels in a little, enough to use my current tires. The wheels I bought have the wrong offsets, but just wrong enough where they rub with my 265s. They trimed and rolled the fenders but it's just barley rubbing. What do you think?
Thanks again for the help and feedback. I very much appreciate it.


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