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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Yup. The Pig should stop FAST now.
Thanks to Bernhard being on call, the install of the fronts was a breeze. My wear sensor is pretty loose, so I'm pretty sure I'll lose it soon. Other than that, everything came off and went back on easily. Everything fit perfectly - RacingBrake really did a great job on this kit.
I didn't do the braided brake lines because I didn't have the right wrenches handy. Will tackle that tomorrow when I do the rears since I'll have to bleed the system after installing the new calipers anyway.
The RacingBrake stud kit makes wheel changes so much easier already. Threw on 12pt titanium lug nuts with antiseize (galling concerns fixed).
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Haha. Yeah I got started super late last night on the rears and just ran out of steam - only got the passenger side done. The rear caliper bolts and sway arm bolt are a b***ch to get enough torque on without the car up in the air (I'm doing it in my garage with my handy Michelin floor jack). I'll do the drivers side rear today at some point, then bleed the system and test drive late tonight hopefully (after traffic calms down and my FFL draft).
It's taking me forever but I'm being very (possibly too) detailed and thorough. Had to spend some extra time on that side as I have a low speed clunking coming from my rear passenger side axle when turning right. CV boots look ok, wiggled stuff around and nothing, so I'm at a bit of a loss.... Happened the day after I had my resonator delete done, so possible it's the exhaust hitting the rear diff, but I was also at the dragstrip when it started so it could really be anything.... Anyway, if/when I have to do it again, I'll be able to knock them all out in a couple hours.
Yes, suspension noises are notoriously difficult to pin point, at least until they get bad enough. I already needed new sway bar links in front after the last track day (at 17,000 miles, warranty). I have something that sounds like vibration from the inside front wheels (both) but only in high speed turns. Recently I hear something getting a bit loose (bushing?) in the rear, but not enough to diagnose and fix yet. The next track day will fix that I guess. If it does not get louder then I know its not a problem......
Bed those brakes in properly - it is important. You need to do it harder than you think!You are installing the XT970 pads, right?
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Well, that went from fun to a nightmare in a hurry. Sigh...
Went out tonight to finish my job from the other day. Let me preface all this by saying that I've been working on cars for 20yrs - DSM's, 996 TT, assorted friends cars, and now this. I'm not a novice. I meant to finish yesterday, but I couldn't get the damn drivers side rear swaybar bushing off because I didn't have the right wrench. The top bolt is 21mm on one side (it's 8-sided so you need a box wrench) and 5/8" on the nut side for anyone who's wondering.
The drivers side rear went on easily enough. Now time to bleed the system. Pass side rear - no problem. Drivers side rear..... problem. Went through a half liter of SRF and still had a stream of foamy bubbles coming out. Ah ha, the bleeder screw on the brand new BS rear caliper isn't sealing - as I wiggle it's creating bubbles. Ok, must be bled so tighten it up and do the others - no problem. Get in the car, push on the brake.... hmm feels a little spongy. Start the car and the pedal goes to the floor. Uh oh. Shut her down and look around and I have leaks at both front wheels and pass side rear. Off with the wheels again (mind you I'm doing this with my trolley jack one at a time), and tighten all hose connections and flares GORILLA tight. Turns out it was the caliper hose fitting on each.
Get back in the car and pump a few times... pedal feels HARD. Great right?! Start the car up, pedal is firm, firm, firm, then goes to the floor. What. The. F***. Can't get the car in any gear but reverse. Look under the car and no leaks as I put paper down this time to catch even the slightest drip. Only thing I can think of is that damn bleeder on drivers side rear. Go to jack up the car again.... and my super-nice Michelin aluminum racing trolley jack pukes oil all over the garage floor.
Sigh. Tomorrow is another day in my never-ending nightmare... Ain't this stuff fun?
(just kidding, this is my idea of fun but I just have bad luck with brakes I guess)
Wow, I am now really happy none of this happened to me - mine is my daily driver and I need it to get to work.
I do not really get your bleeder screw issues - are they all corroded maybe? The foam issue - you probably did open them too much, I would guess. half a turn does it, just let it bleed slowly using 10-15 PSI in your power bleeder.
Re the sway bar thing - it would be way better to use jack stands and have at least both rear wheels off the ground at the same time. That way there is no tension on the sway bar. Much easier to reconnect that way.
Hey - I am keeping my fingers crossed for you. Hopefully it will be solved smoothly today.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Totally baffled now. This is not any kind of fault with the RacingBrake kit. Fit is absolutely perfect.
Checked every hose connection and bled each caliper again (with the catch container ABOVE the bleeder this time - I was inadvertently creating a siphon of some sort duuuuh). Went through another 1.5L of SRF to be sure. Not a single leak. Not one drip. Got in car, one pump and pedal feels hard. Started up and pedal felt just fine - travel may be a little bit longer, but it didn't go to the floor. Feels like it did last time I had the brake fluid done at the dealer. Laid paper under entire car and inside each wheel, then pumped the brakes for 5min with the car running. Not one drop. Looked at every connection and they were dry as a bone. Fluid reservoir still full.
BUT, car still won't go into drive. It goes into reverse just fine, and I crept it back a foot and stopped fine. Still won't go into drive.
Totally stumped by this. What could I be missing here? Is there some sort of sensor I may have dislodged while taking all the calipers on and off that would do this?
Next step is to go back and see if there is any fluid on the paper. Then I guess I'll disconnect the battery for a few days and come back to it then. Otherwise.... if anyone in the NYC area can get my car to move forward I'll give you a free set of ROW airboxes. No kidding.
Sorry, mate - but I cannot see a connection. Even if you damaged a sensor, I doubt it will not go into drive. It would give you an error message.
The gear lever is mechanically locked when the car is not running and the foot is not on the brake - but you were able to put it into Reverse.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Yeah this has me totally stumped. I'm thinking that the clunking noise coming out of my passenger rear at the track may have been transmission related. I'm reaching here, but that's the last time I drove the car. I drove back from the track, parked, then started on the brakes a day later. It's the only thing I can think of. Rear diff? Then why can I get into reverse? So weird. I'll go see if I have any codes I guess...
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Problem solved. I'm chalking it up to "User Error". Shifts into drive fine now after I tried a few things. Will test drive when I'm back Monday. Can't wait.
OK, I have an update on my RacingBrake Big Brake Upgrade.
After my track day at NCM in Kentucky mid July, I came back with cracked pads and strong vibration in the front brakes. RacingBrake analyzed pictures I sent them of my pads as well as rotors and a video of me driving on the track. They concluded that the XT970 pads were overpowered with the speed I was driving at the track combined with a weight of about 4200 lbs (2 passengers and full tank).
Since then they sent me a new set of hard core track pads free of charge and gave me instructions on how to try and salvage the rotors by cleaning off uneven pad deposit from smeared pads.
The rotors never fully recovered though. They got better and ended up being smooth when cold, but started to vibrate whenever they were getting warm. They are warped due to the XT970 pads smearing and overheating the rotors. So, last week RB sent me a new set of rotor rings and XR70 track pads as well as XT910 pads for street driving. On Tuesday I swapped out the rotor rings (retained the hats I had) installed the XR70 track pads and have since then been trying to drive the snot out of them and bedding them in hard before going to Mid-Ohio for another track day next weekend.
The track pads squealed a bit at first, but after bedding in that stopped. Now the brakes are AWSOME!!!!!! Stopping power is phenomenal!!! No more vibration. You can still feel some rubbing when braking hard (from the slots and because they are simply bigger and harder brakes than stock), but it is not an issue. And the stopping power is unbelievable.
I am catching myself all the time braking way later than before, just to be amazed time and again how the car now stops without fuss and in no time. Now I cannot wait to get to the track. These brakes brake better than stock without having to push it. They are confidence inspiring and I am looking so forward to showing those Porsches at the track, who is boss (the upcoming track day is Porsche Club event).
Now - RB charged me for the new rotors, with the understanding they will reimburse me if the original ones are found to be warped upon return. They even provided a return shipping label. Given the difference I am feeling now with the new rotors there is not doubt the previous ones were warped and that I will get my money back.
RB are really working with us as a community to get this right and provide a bullet-proof brake upgrade kit that can take the abuse we may subject it to at the track.
Honestly - every time I drive my car now I am amazed how much better it handles compared to stock - wider track, lowered, different camber and bigger brakes and that thing just wants to GO and CORNER! It is so much fun to drive!
Guys - do yourself a favor and get that big brake upgrade- you will be amazed about how much it increases the fun factor of the C63.
I should chip in here too. Wobble's monster sounds like a blast on the track. I'm wimping along in a completely stock car with just an EC tune, so I'm not able to push the envelope as far as he can. Last month I swapped my stock pads for RB's XT970. I've done two track days since and about a month of daily driving on them.
Initial reaction when bedding the brakes was surprise. There really is a difference in how well these things grab and how much deceleration the car can pull.
I've had no problems using the XT970 as track pads. They were solid, reliable and consistent all day on both tracks. My rotors look clean with no signs of buildup.
Street use has not been a problem either. They may be marginally less dusty than OEM pads but I'm not seeing a really big difference. They are a little more prone to squeal. I intend to pull them, check the wear faces for cracks and put some antisqueal on the back of the pads to see if it helps, but the noise doesn't bother me much so I'm not in a hurry.
Yes, I believe it - I run Sport Cup2s with 255 in front and 305 in the rear. That alone will make a difference on how much abuse the brakes get. And I should have about 50 hp or so more than you due to the headers.
Do you run stock rotors and are you seeing hairline cracks around the cross drilled holes? And did you run the stock oil cooling system on a track in Texas - no problems? Is your car a torque converter or MCT model?
Had a great weekend up at Mid-Ohio. The track conditions were challenging Saturday morning (wet/cold/slippery), but improved during the weekend. I ran in the second fastest run group and was right at home. Cars on full slicks usually gave me a hard time in the twisty bits of the track, I pulled away from everyone on the straights.
Very happy with the RacingBrake upgrade. The brakes had unlimited stopping power, were totally healthy thermally and no significant vibration this time. The limit to faster times now were 1. The driver, and 2. tires.
Unfortunately I had left home without a backup set of XR70 track pads and unfortunately, after 6 runs I ran out of pad liner (see attached pics). I caught it on time and no further damage happened. However, I had to pack up after only 2 sessions on Sunday/ The pads had not worn all 4 at the same rate (normal) and swapping pads after day 1 would have allowed me to go longer, but I did not expect that to be needed and almost ran out of liner on the thinnest pad. Oh well - never leave home without a spare brake pad set!! Lesson learned.
There were some cool cars like a Noble, Ferraris, a race prepped AC Cobra lots of Porsches, etc. but only one Mercedes.
Congratulations on the achievement. Your venture has proven that MB has a great potential on tracks.
Most better known (prepped) track cars like you saw on tracks are below 3,500 lbs.
So far RB brakes have been helping those known heavy track cars like GT-R (3840), CTS-V (4100), Mustang GT500 (4700) shorten their lap times and we are glad to add MB C63 (3900*) to the list.
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
Subscribed. Now that I'm tracking mine it will be time for these babies soon. Thanks Wobble (and of course RB) for doing all the beta-testing!
On a related topic, does anyone have any brake cooling soutions for the C63 (other than goign through the frame like on Dad's car)? I can run the ducting and make little air scoops, but does anyone know of a rotor heat shield with a hole near the center for the duct that we can adapt to the C63?
Strictly speaking cooling ducts are not necessary (the C63 brakes are more open than others, like e.g. the GTR), I have proven that at least for myself by now. My brakes have been thermally completely healthy for 3 track days now and I was not holding back.
That said, it would add robustness and maybe longevity of pads, if it reduced average temperatures. However, for me to be interested, it would have to be a simple, clean and robust solution, that is affordable. Have not seen something like this ready made anywhere....
Yay, the refund for my previous rotors arrived and I am whole with a brake upgrade that is working perfectly - even after a 2 day track weekend. The brakes are still smooth as silk and now bullet-proof!
Here is the recipe for success:
1. Get brake pads that are aggressive enough for the track, in case of doubt, go for the XR70. XT970s may be OK if you are driving moderately, for me they were not enough, I need XR70s.
2. Bed the brakes in AGGRESSIVELY. I did accelerate to 110 mph and decelerated down to 30 mph 7 times in a row! Racing brakes need to be bedded in very hard. No babying them before you really stress them at the track. After heating them up through and through, drive carefully for 15 minutes with as little braking as possible.
3. Check brakes after the bedding in procedure - they should now have a clearly visible layer of brake pad deposit on the rotors. If so: You are good to go!
I now did put street pads back in (XT910s) and they are totally quiet and smooth. The rotors show no appreciable wear after a track weekend (which is definitely different from what I would have seen on the stock rotors).
Voila, another thing checked off. Brakes are no longer something I need to worry about at a track event!
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
Originally Posted by Wobble64
...
2. Bed the brakes in AGGRESSIVELY. I did accelerate to 110 mph and decelerated down to 30 mph 7 times in a row! Racing brakes need to be bedded in very hard. No babying them before you really stress them at the track. After heating them up through and through, drive carefully for 15 minutes with as little braking as possible.
...
And that, my friends, is exacly how I got nabbed by the local constabulary doing 184 - bedding in a set of race Pagids before a track day (on a divided highway, four lanes in each directrion, 15m wide median, with perfect visibility and 3 km of straight road ahead all to myself with no other vehicle in sight. One of the more memorable moments of my driving career for all the wrong reasons.
Trust me on this - losing a session at the track because you have to bed in your race pads first instead of lapping is *MUCH* preferrable to the alternative...
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Ok, it's been awhile since my last update. Been traveling for work for the past few weeks and finally got a chance to wrap this up last night before I leave on my next trip tonight.
I was having some recurring problems with leaks from the front caliper hose fittings, and then I forgot to bleed the inside bleeder for the fronts. As a result, I had a couple of test runs cut short by brake fluid all over my wheels, then a weekend with a really soft pedal and long travel. Got another 1/2 turn on the hoses last weekend, and rebled the fronts completely last night. I'm getting really good at brake work now, as I think I've done about 4x the amount of work as was needed haha.
What a difference! WOW! Brake pedal catch is about 2" in and hard as a rock. Rebedded them this morning and holy s*** do these things stop FAST. The negative g's from slowing down is really amazing to be honest. Nice and smooth action too, and the bite is pretty vicious - easy to modulate, but when you step on them the car WILL stop. I have the XT970's and they make a bit of noise when cold, but it's really very minimal.
RacingBrake - you guys really have outdone yourself here. The kit is absolutely PERFECT. Perfect fit, finish, quality, etc. I just couldn't be happier. Well, if I had done this sooner I would have caught the end of the season, and it looks like I've pretty much missed it now, but I know I'll be in great shape come spring. THANKS
(big thanks to Wobble as well for pointers along the way )
Also, for the record, I put 20mm H&R spacers on the front because I wasn't happy with the lack of flushness compared to the rear. My 19" Vorsteiners are:
Front: 19x8.5 ET 45
Rear: 19x10 ET 52
I'm running PSS in 245/35F and 275/30R.
That would make my effective offset in front 25, and now they are flush as can be with ZERO rub.
AND, I also installed the RacingBrake stud conversion kit. Paired it up with some titanium lug nuts from Ozmo Engineering. SO much easier to change out wheels quickly. The only problem I had with these, is that getting the proper torque on the drivers rear cracked 2 of my 9mm SK sockets and rounded 2 of the studs a bit before I realized what had happened. Couldn't believe it.
Overall I couldn't be happier with how everything turned out.
front (don't mind the antiseize all over my wheels)
Ha, that was a long and difficult birth...... Congratulations on a job successfully completed and I Wish you as much joy with your new brakes as I have with them!
That said, how about meeting at a track day at VIR mid October? I found an event and that track looks great as far as I can tell. Very fast, should suit a C63 well. A haul for me (8hrs), probably a bit less for you? Look it up and let me know.
08-30-2015, 01:45 AM
This is not any kind of fault with the RacingBrake kit. Fit is absolutely perfect.
