Trans won't shift into DRIVE
09-03-2015, 11:48 AM
#1
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Trans won't shift into DRIVE
Background information here on page 2 starting at post 126 or so: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...eir-car-2.html
So I swapped out my stock P31 brakes for the RacingBrake upgrade to Black Series spec. The kit is amazing - fit is perfect and the brakes are enormous.
Put everything back together, bled my brake system.... and now my car won't go into DRIVE. I have reverse, just not drive (or neutral if it matters).
I had some issues with leaks and bleeding the system, however was using the Motive power bleeder so the reservoir never went dry. Checked car for leaks last night - not a drop, dry as a bone. Fluid level fine. Brake pedal firm when car is off, fine with car on (although pedal travel seems a bit longer now, but pedal still firm).
Car will go into reverse. I backed up a foot last night, stopped (brakes work!), and shifted back to park. Still no drive, or neutral. Is there any kind of sensor/wire I could have damaged when removing/replacing all of the brake calipers? What would enable me to go into reverse but not drive - speed sensor? No CEL or warning lights of any kind. Brake lights work so I'm guessing the switch is fine.
I was at the track right before doing my brakes, and heard on low-speed turns a clunking sound out of my rear passenger side. It was also right after I had my resonators cut out, so I thought my exhaust might be hitting something. Only low-speed, right-hand turns. Now I'm thinking this may be related to my current problems. Rear diff? Rear axle/CV? If it was either of those things I wouldn't have reverse. Besides, the gear select lever is locked out from going into drive or neutral. Slides into reverse easy as pie.
I am TOTALLY stumped on this. Next step is to disconnect the battery for a few days and see what happens. I'm really reaching here. Has anyone ever had a problem getting into DRIVE only?
So I swapped out my stock P31 brakes for the RacingBrake upgrade to Black Series spec. The kit is amazing - fit is perfect and the brakes are enormous.
Put everything back together, bled my brake system.... and now my car won't go into DRIVE. I have reverse, just not drive (or neutral if it matters).
I had some issues with leaks and bleeding the system, however was using the Motive power bleeder so the reservoir never went dry. Checked car for leaks last night - not a drop, dry as a bone. Fluid level fine. Brake pedal firm when car is off, fine with car on (although pedal travel seems a bit longer now, but pedal still firm).
Car will go into reverse. I backed up a foot last night, stopped (brakes work!), and shifted back to park. Still no drive, or neutral. Is there any kind of sensor/wire I could have damaged when removing/replacing all of the brake calipers? What would enable me to go into reverse but not drive - speed sensor? No CEL or warning lights of any kind. Brake lights work so I'm guessing the switch is fine.
I was at the track right before doing my brakes, and heard on low-speed turns a clunking sound out of my rear passenger side. It was also right after I had my resonators cut out, so I thought my exhaust might be hitting something. Only low-speed, right-hand turns. Now I'm thinking this may be related to my current problems. Rear diff? Rear axle/CV? If it was either of those things I wouldn't have reverse. Besides, the gear select lever is locked out from going into drive or neutral. Slides into reverse easy as pie.
I am TOTALLY stumped on this. Next step is to disconnect the battery for a few days and see what happens. I'm really reaching here. Has anyone ever had a problem getting into DRIVE only?
09-03-2015, 12:53 PM
#2
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If your gear selector appears to be mechanically blocked from going any further than R, I would try this next:
Pry the leather boot of the gear selector away from the console, so you can get underneath. Look for the locking pin that prevents the gear selector to move from Park when your foot is not on the brake and mechanically unlock it. See whether you can get into drive and whether the car then moves. If the pin was just mechanically stuck, that would be the solution. If it is blocked by software, then at least it is another indication of what is going on and should help with trouble shooting.
It would be a freak coincidence, but maybe it is something totally unrelated to your brake work?
I doubt disconnecting the battery will change anything.
Pry the leather boot of the gear selector away from the console, so you can get underneath. Look for the locking pin that prevents the gear selector to move from Park when your foot is not on the brake and mechanically unlock it. See whether you can get into drive and whether the car then moves. If the pin was just mechanically stuck, that would be the solution. If it is blocked by software, then at least it is another indication of what is going on and should help with trouble shooting.
It would be a freak coincidence, but maybe it is something totally unrelated to your brake work?
I doubt disconnecting the battery will change anything.
09-03-2015, 01:12 PM
#3
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I'll try that, but the selector moves into reverse which is the weird part. No problem there, but when I go to put it in N or D it will not move.
Now that I think about this a bit, this happened to me once before where it would intermittently not go into drive. I tracked it down to a faulty gear mode selector knob. I'll take a look at that too but it's a brand new part and hasn't been broken like I did to the last one taking the console apart repetedly...
Thanks for your thoughts on this, I'm sure it's nothing big and I'll be back on the road in no time
(famous last words)
Now that I think about this a bit, this happened to me once before where it would intermittently not go into drive. I tracked it down to a faulty gear mode selector knob. I'll take a look at that too but it's a brand new part and hasn't been broken like I did to the last one taking the console apart repetedly...
Thanks for your thoughts on this, I'm sure it's nothing big and I'll be back on the road in no time
(famous last words)
09-03-2015, 07:35 PM
#4
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Problem solved. Likely "User Error". Disregard. Car moves fine!
I did 2 things - it could be either one, or both, or neither. 1) I've read that a dying key battery can possibly make the car not recognize the key pairing and prevent D while allowing R. So I brought my fresh spare key. 2) I ran the AutoEnginuity diagnostics. Initially it ran 41 tests and pulled a bunch of codes for the TCU I had never seen before. Cleared these codes, restarted the program, and ran the tests again. This time it ran 46 tests, and showed no codes.
Started the car, repeated the above, no codes. Put her right into drive. Drove back and forth a bit, then put her away until I can test drive properly Monday night. Not going to get a chance to test it out until then, but this is a big relief!
I did 2 things - it could be either one, or both, or neither. 1) I've read that a dying key battery can possibly make the car not recognize the key pairing and prevent D while allowing R. So I brought my fresh spare key. 2) I ran the AutoEnginuity diagnostics. Initially it ran 41 tests and pulled a bunch of codes for the TCU I had never seen before. Cleared these codes, restarted the program, and ran the tests again. This time it ran 46 tests, and showed no codes.
Started the car, repeated the above, no codes. Put her right into drive. Drove back and forth a bit, then put her away until I can test drive properly Monday night. Not going to get a chance to test it out until then, but this is a big relief!
09-03-2015, 09:13 PM
#5
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Glad it is resolved. Still leaves a doubt though - what on earth really happened.......
Hopefully it is truly resolved to never return.
Hopefully it is truly resolved to never return.
09-03-2015, 09:40 PM
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
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09-04-2015, 08:46 AM
#8
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Yeah the Enhanced Interface
https://www.autoenginuity.com/produc...edes-ei17.html
Did you order it direct? I'm debating if the $493.90 price tag is worth it or not.
https://www.autoenginuity.com/produc...edes-ei17.html
Did you order it direct? I'm debating if the $493.90 price tag is worth it or not.
09-04-2015, 10:33 AM
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Jasonoff - Its worth it I think, but I haven't even begun to use the enhanced features such as actuation of sensors and reset adaptations. The instructions/directions and support are poor, and the interface is not very intuitive. I have no doubt it is powerful and can do everything I need - so far that has just been dataloging and clearing codes - but I wish it were a bit easier to use. Yes bought direct.
