biker349

hi, everything works except the soft close feature for my drivers side door. i have to close it hard to fully close the door. is this causing any problems? is there anything i can check myself to help track down the problem before going to dealer? where is the fuse located? 2004 cl600.
thanks

mf219

I doubt it's causing any problems- my passenger side door has been like that for (at least) 2 years. I can see where the driver's side would be much more inconvenient. Mine is not caused by a fuse (they're all good). It's most likely an air/vacuum leak inside the door. I saw a repair kit on ebay for it a couple years ago, but don't know anyone who's tried it. Let us know when you figure it out- it's a common problem.

biker349

where is the fuse located? i'd like to atleast try resetting the system.
thanks

matias

Disconnect the battery and gives good results.

biker349

disconnected battery and reset. when closing the drivers door heard a whoosh of air and no soft close function. i'm assuming i have a vaccum leak, or some type of air leak in the door. can anyone walk me through the procedure to check out the air lines in the drivers door pertaining to the soft close function. i have the repair cd and couldn't find the appropriate info., only the procedure for checking the system with the star system which i dont have. i'd like to know how to physically check the air lines in the door and how to gain access.
thanks

Merzman

Use a tube and place one end near the door lock and the other at your ear. Activate the system and listen. You should not hear air whooshing at door. If you do, it is a bad connector, broken or lost hose, or bladder at the door. You may hear air at the air pump. This is normal, but pump should shut off after a few seconds. It can be cleaned and adjusted. See this post at benzworld: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215...t-problem.html

biker349

i do have an air whoosh at the door. it seems to be comming from the front of the door where the hinges are and the plastic protective cover tube are. if i pull off the cover tube at the front of the door is there anything i can access where the tube was connected to the door? can i check anything without taken the cover panel off the door?

Austinite

On mine... Under the rear passengers seat fuse box, last 20 amp fuse to the right. I think it's the 3rd actual fuse from the right. Pull it out wait a second the plug it back in. This will reset the doors. Will give you time to have it repairsed. If there is a leak and the pump goes too long it will turn off the pump. There could be a leak in the line. Just try resetting it

biker349

it appears that i have a leak in the line in the front of the door. what do i have to remove to check this? if i take off the rubber tube attached between the door and frame will this give me access to anything?

ecarriages

I just purchased a 2000 CL500 and had a similar problem. I had to have my PSE Pump reprogrammed and replaced the passenger side door lock assembly. It was expensive but I want everything working properly. I need to replace the driver's side lock assembly as well, so if anyone has one, I need one.

awiner

The whoosh sound generally is NOT due to a break in the vacuum lines. More than not it is caused by a failed vacuum door lock. The vacuum portion is made of plastic and is a two part system that uses plastic clips to contain the diaphragm. When these clips break after several years or a certain amount of uses the whoosh sound is very pronounced.

The reason pulling a fuse of disconnecting the battery brought this sound back is because the PSE air pump realized the vacuum leak in that circuit and disabled that circuit to prevent blowing out the PSE.

When you disconnect power it re-enables the PSE which will disable the circuit after a number of failed attempts again.

The vacuum door lock is approx $600 new. It works trying to epoxy the plastic pieces containing the diaphragm together.

I replaced my drivers side door locking unit and it was a pain. The window had to come out of the door to make room for the unit to be removed and reinstalled.

I had a MB Tech help me and it took us the better part of a few hours start to finish.

In any event, pulling the interior door panel will give you access to most everything you need to check.

I also had the same issue with my vacuum trunk lock (optional on my 2003). I was able to fix the trunk unit with a few zip ties to hold the plastic diaphragm container together as that container was a lot bigger than the one in the door.

biker349

awiner, thanks that was the info. i was looking for. i'm glad that the system deactivates the pump when there is an error, leak. at this point i can live without the soft close as long as it doesn't cause any other problems. i have an extended warranty which i hope covers this and eventually will have the dealer look into this, but i'm in no hurry, again as long as this doesn't cause any other problems.

theboogers

thought i had a low battery as it was over two years old. replaced battery thinking that was reason for no door or trunk operation.
i found my pse pump blowing fuses. took out the trunk liners and couldn't find any leaks or wire problems. got the pump out in the trunk to observe. pumps activates and runs for several seconds then fuse blows. trunk and doors will not self close or remote lock. any suggestions other than a new pump? thanks, s55 03

gaazmon

have had the same go wrong in our 02 cl500. first the trunk went and now the driver's door. trunk was fixed but have to still fix the door

jpmc86

I had exact problem, if you heard a pop or escaping air, you will have to replace door lock actuator assy. Find independent, do not take to dealer, expensive repair.

2006 CL500

Removing and reinserting F62 worked for me.

oliverpage

Adam,

The details shared have been very helpful. My soft door close actuator broke and I can see the plastic cap is laying in the bottom of the door. I started to remove all the pieces to get the door close actuator out but got stuck on removing the window. With all the bolts removed I can't seem to wiggle it through the top of the slot. Any tricks that you can recommend?

Thanks!

awiner

It has been a while since I did this job. I remember loosening the bolts that clamp the window to the regulator/lift assembly then being able to guide it up and out of the door pocket via the window slit at the top.

Were you able to get the window free of the lift ?

oliverpage

Yes thanks Adam was a bit of a pain but if you get the window half way up the two bolts that secure the window are accessible. Now the challenge has been getting everything adjusted to fit correctly and be water tight.

awiner

Before I took my window out I marked the position on the glass with a sharpie. :-) Reinstalling was a breeze that way.