purpl3haz3

Hey Guys,

I've been a lurker for a while, and I've searched, but I cannot find an answer. I recently (4 months ago) purchased a 2002 w215 in pristine condition. The dealer had all service records from day 1. Anyway, my question is this:

When I'm driving on any type road, I hear a lot of clunking coming from the suspension, both front and back. I thought at first it would be due to worn bushings but I had my personal mechanic check it out on a lift and everything seemed to be nice and tight. The best way I can describe the sound is that it seems like metal is clunking on metal, like the shocks are loose where they mount into the body on top. This is definitely not the case, however. I have changed the accumulator closely located to the center of the vehicle because it had that nice humming sound. The sound is gone, but I'm wondering if it could be something due to the other two accumulators on the car and if changing them would help. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

awiner

The struts and shocks have been know to come loose and cause the sound you are describing. Also I would check the sub frame bushings at the rear. They are known to collapse and cause these noises as well.

purpl3haz3

Thanks for the reply. Would this be all four shocks? Also, do they come lose from the top mount or the bottom mount? I'll check the sub-frame bushings as well.

purpl3haz3

Also, how tight should the 3 nuts that hold the strut in on top be? I tightened them since they had room to go, and now they're pretty well torqued...and further advice would be greatly appreciated..

grane

From whom did you purchase it and what type of warranty were you given in writing?

Did the service records include ABC service and replacement?

purpl3haz3

I purchased it from an independent used car dealer. The previous owner had all the service record receipts kept, 100+ pages, from the ten years he's had the car. I have them all with me right now. The pump was replaced last year in November, and the full service was performed. I replaced the center accumulator under the car three weeks ago.

There is no warranty with the car, and any aftermarket I found did not cover the suspension.

awiner

I've only heard of the fronts becoming loose (top nuts) but it would hurt to check the rears if you can gain access easily.

I will look up the torque values on the top nuts when I get home, but firmly snug will do it.

purpl3haz3

I had access to two of the three bolts on each rear strut. I tightened the ones I could reach on the driver side. They seemed a little more loose than they should have been. The ones on the passenger side were snug. I then tightened the ones in the front, torquing them down quite a bit. Last thing I did was check the set screw on the passenger side, the one facing the back of the car. That was snug, and it started raining, so I couldn't check the rest. I'll get to the other three tomorrow. Once I have access to a lift, I'll check the sub-frame mounts. Thanks for all the information..this has been driving me nuts.

Another question I had, is the part where the front strut sits onto the little ball joint that's on the LCA sold separately, or do I have to buy the whole LCA altogether? I checked parts.com and it doesn't seem to be sold separately...

awiner

The ball joint is sold as a separate part. They are fairly easy to install while the car is on a lift with a pusher and ball joint fork which you can rent from any automotive store.

The Ball Joint Steering Knuckle to Lower Control Arm part # for my 2003 CL55 is 211-330-04-35

purpl3haz3

The part number you gave is the one indicated by the blue arrow, I'm looking for the one indicated by the red arrow . I think you have to purchase the whole arm..

awiner

In that case, no replaceable part. You would need to buy a new control arm.

Has the ball become damaged ?

purpl3haz3

Meh..figured. Thanks a lot for your time and knowledge, really appreciate it.

purpl3haz3

Well, took it to my mechanic of 8 years and threw it up on the lift. I checked all the sit screws for the front dampeners and they are all tight. All strut bolts on top are tight. Here's a picture of the sub-frame bushings in the rear:

https://i.imgur.com/X512x.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6sHjF.jpg

Looked at the upper side with a mirror and they seem fine as well. The sub-frame is not touching the car physically, still has a gap. Leads me to believe that they have not collapsed. Last thing I can imagine needing replacement would be the front and rear accumulator. Do you think this would help it any or am I going down a rabbit hole here?

2014CL600

The accumulators will not need changing unless your car bounces. The ABC light will intermittently flash and alert you when the system is becoming depleted of nitrogen in an accumulator. The suspension will become like an old Cadillac when the shocks are bad. The accumulator just keeps pressure in the system. It will not make a noise when they are going bad. If your car rides soft then they will need to be check and usually have them replaced. It could that the strut tower bushing themselves have deteriorated. That is also common since they are rubber isolators.

awiner

Actually the accumulators are used as a shock suppression device. The accumulators are nitrogen filled and therefore will help to adsorb hydrostatic shock in the ABC hydrolic system. This shock happens when you hit a sharp bump, pothole, etc. If it weren't for the accumulators, a hose, seal, etc. would end up being the weak link and leaking/blowing at some point.

When they go bad, generally you will not know and no errors will be thrown. What happens and has been reported in many cases is you will hear a groaning sound.

Particles of the diaphragm from the accumulator will contaminate the ABC system which causes the valve blocks to become stuck with the foreign rubber matter.

OCKlasse

+1. On a typical hydropneumatic suspension, the accumulator acts has as the dampening for the suspension. In the case of ABC, it prevents pressure spikes within the system.

2014CL600

If you guys have not experiences accumulators that went bad, I did. The HORRIFIC 04 CL 500 that I had for 6 months and in that time spent over 15k in 6 months and the final straw was the accumulator's started to go, the light would come on intermittently and the car became soft and spongy without any noise. The car was just so bouncy but didn't make any noise at all. I filled the system the rest of the way with fluid and sold it and took a bath.

awiner

The accumulators don't have any sort of sensor to throw a code when they go bad. Therefore I can only surmise that pressure must have gotten low in your ABC system from fluid being able to penetrate the accumulator body to throw a code and place ABC in the deactivated mode (hence the bouncy Cadillac ride).

2014CL600

Im sorry but who said anything about sending any codes? I don't think any one mentioned anything about codes. The best way to see if your accumulators are going is to do the bounce test. It is 100% accurate. If you start your car let it idle then turn it off and go and try to bounce the front and do the same to the rear. If either or both bounce then your accumulators are becoming weak. If the car stays STIFF then the accumulators are working as they should . Trust me I've owned 8 CL's all new except for two and I know these cars like the back of my hand. I've been through a lot with these cars so, when I tell you something it usually is WORD.

purpl3haz3

Well this turned out to be quite the conversation. There's lots of information here and I thank all of you for that.

I noticed a little something today while driving. I took the car up to 85-90 mph on the freeway and noticed the noise was gone, and it drove much nicer. At normal city cruising, the noise is constantly there, and although it doesn't have a Cadillac bounce, it feels like a race car with 12k springs. Super stiff. This is why I feel the front/back accumulators may be on their way out. They're not dampening any of the road's imperfections, or that they're taking on fluid. I've received no warning lights whatsoever as well. Last thing that makes sense is that when the car is at higher RPM (2k-3k range), it ciculates the fluid much more rapidly..I don't know. I don't have much experience with this car/suspension..just hoping for some type of answer..

purpl3haz3

Just a quick bump for visibility..I'm going to have a dealer diagnose the issue on Saturday. After that, I'm going to do a full ABC service and see if anything turns up. If you guys have any other suggestions, that'd be sweet.

purpl3haz3

Sorry to bump this old thread, but still no answers...was hoping someone who knows something may help :\

SpiderAce

I've got a rumble, dull noise coming from the rear.
had front ball joints replaced, rear checked and re-checked..

but every time I drive slowly through a parking lot etc, I get this rumble that almost sounds like a loose exhaust hanger, pipes rattling..

It's driving me nuts and it's a short drive to nutville for me...

Let me know if your issue gets resolved.

biker349

check your spare tire and make sure it is tight.

purpl3haz3

Mine is definitely tight, that's the first thing I checked. I think I'm going to replace ball joints just for peace of mind though.

SpiderAce, I'll definitely update this thread as soon as I figure mine out. Short drive to nutville doesn't begin to describe it man!