tomtomterrific

Day 1 with the 2001 CL500. Spent the day cleaning it. DMV was closed so I couldn't get it registered until Monday.


Have a few issues/questions:


1-Windshield washer doesn't squirt. Wipers work, headlight washers work, but not window squirters. Is it the same pump? I checked the F11 fuse and it was good.


2-Trunk release doesn't work by fob or interior switch. manual works.


3-door auto closer doesn't work. I hear the pneumatics working but it doesn't draw the door closed.


4-i have a check engine light that shows codes for up and downstream o2 sensors.


5-once this afternoon it was throwing a bunch of "go to shop" codes; ABS, ABC, etc. but then they seemed to go away. any ideas?


Lovoing the car and looking forward to getting it straightened out!


Tom

tusabes

How much did you pay ? With all those issues I would be canceling the sale unless you got a huge discount for those

tomtomterrific

Thanks Tusabe,


I'm a NEWB on the MB forum having just picked up the car. I posted twice but yours is the only response I received. Unfortunately, it's not very helpful on the issues.


The car is in excellent condition overall and I got a good deal. I'm hoping experienced CL500 owners on this forum might have insight to my issues.


Appreciate anyone with knowledge sharing advice on...


-The "puck" for the trunk release issue and could this be related to the door closer pneumatics?


- The WW squirter pump, is this the same pump as the headlight cleaner? Is the pump fused separately from the wipers?


- Does the dash display ever just "cycle through" the ABC, ABS, etc. codes? As I mentioned these codes only appeared once and do not record as "malfunctions."


Also, appreciate any general advice that could be helpful for a new owner.






Thanks,


Tom

biker349

wiper pump is a seperate pump and can be bought online for like $15
2&3 are probably related and could be the pump, bad wirring, or the pucks in both systems.
abc warning, make sure you check the level of the abc fluid in the pump reservoir to make sure it is full for both the abc and steering.
good luck. there are multiple posts on all issues.

tomtomterrific

Thanks Biker!

tomtomterrific

I'll check the ABC fluid to begin th e process of elimination, but is there a single something that would make it throw ABC, ESP, ABS, etc all at the same time?

tomtomterrific

I checked and the hydraulic fluid levels were OK.

I've read that the brake light switch can trip ESP/BAS warning.

Also that ESP/BAS/ABS warnings could be caused by a bad wheel speed sensor.

Or I suppose a new ESP PML BAS Control Module could be in order

Still doesn't solve the ABC fault. The car does go up and down with the switch though!

Thanks for your help.

Tom

tomtomterrific

Gents:


Got the 2001 cl500 registered today and got to drive it around a bit. The ABC, ESP, BAS, warnings seem to have cleared! Am I getting lucky here?


Earlier I was looking at my ECU's for part numbers and I found this strange condition (see picture attached) on the ABC ACTIVE BODY CONTROL MODULE part # 022 545 08 32.


You have to look very carefully but the yellow/red wire coming out of the harness and heading into the white block has a "pigtail" spliced in. The red side of the pigtail is spliced into the yellow/red wire and the black side of the pigtail is zip tied to the spring clip that holds in the ecu. I suspect to ground it? The flat male end of the pigtail was not plugged into anything but just slid down next to the ecu. (I put the blue electrical tape on it just to insulate it).


Can anyone explain what the person who did this was trying to accomplish? Is it meant to test the circuit?


Thanks,
Tom

tomtomterrific

Got the wiper pump and will be installing soon.


I have a question on the left turn signal located in the side view mirror. Does the whole cover need to be replaced to service the turn signal bulb? The shop tells me this is the case, the part is $240 and is only serviceable by a MB dealer? This just doesn't sound right?


Also, Does anyone know what the red/yellow wire coming out of the drivers side fusebox is for? (see my photo posted earlier in this thread) It's located in the forward-most white square plug. Turns out the pigtail that a PO wired in to this circuit is a fuse. Not sure why they'd add a fuse here?


My side marker lamps were replaced with leds. These were causing the faults. Replaced these with regular bulbs and they are OK.

Thanks!

slonar21

The car probably had a lowering module installed at some point and then removed

tomtomterrific

Thanks Slonar - so is that red/yellow wire for the ABC circuit?

graytalon2000

I found that red/yellow wire was continuous power for all my audio. I found it going to the head unit, 6 disc changer, amp, and audio gateway....not sure if it goes to the ABC or not.

lphillips1117

See my notes in red ^^^^^^^

tomtomterrific

Thanks for the info on the fuse(s) for the trucnk actuator and door closer I'll check that out. So, are you saying the puck in the trunk hold pressure for both the trunk and door closer?


The new w/w pump did the trick. Washers work fine and no leaks. Just picked up ne blades which were $50! I bought the w/w pump off eBay and could look up the sellers info if you'd like.

lphillips1117

The way I understand it is that when the puck starts to leak, the vacuum system shuts itself down. I could be wrong. But what I know for sure is that I had the trunk issue, then the doors started to have a problem but it was intermittent. After I repaired the puck, the on again/off again door problem went away. There are other areas in the system that can leak and cause similar issues though.

Congrats on getting that pump in and working. The leak on my car isn't constant but the residue on the lines/pump are obvious. I've only found a puddle under that area once. I'm going to leave it as is for now. Thanks for the follow up though.

Fayde

Can you update on what is and isn't working? That red/yellow wire is a constant 12v. Do a search for "fuse box", should give you diagrams so you can see which circuit (from the fuse it's being taken from) that 12v lead is drawing on.

tomtomterrific

Fayde - Graytalon2000 also said that red/yellow wire was a constant 12V. I can't figure out why the PO would have wired a fuse into the line there in the fusebox? It seems like it was meant to be temporary because the ground was just zip tied to the spring clip that holds in the ecu. I replaced the w/w pump and that's working fine. The only electrical issue I have now is from the drivers side mirror turn signal. Debating on going with the Chinese led replacement as opposed to going the $300-400 to replace/paint the cover. Replaced (2) O2 sensors. All the other warning codes have cleared. Still need to diagnose the trunk opener and drivers door auto close but sounds like they could be related. Thanks!

Fayde

The power door locks are working but not the auto-close or trunk? Have you listened at the trunk for a 'hiss' at the lid, close to the lock after pushing the key fob? When the PSE pump starts going out "usually" the trunk goes first, then door locks, THEN the door close-assist. But if it thinks there is a leak in one of the legs, it will shut that leg down. If you hear a slight hiss OR hear the PSE pump running (on left in trunk near seat back), the 'Puck' could be leaking..

tomtomterrific

Fayde -

- The power door locks work
- The trunk does auto close (meaning when you lower it to almost closed it pulls tight)
- The passenger door auto closes
- The drivers door does not auto close
- I took your advice and listened at the trunk.
- I hear a motor hum at the trunk (PSE pump running?) but no "hiss"
- On the drivers door I hear a definite "hiss"

Thanks!
Tom

Fayde

Well.. good news bad news for you mate.
(bad news)
You have a blown diaphragm on the door close. It is a beast to repair requiring door panel, inner door insulation, outside door handle, door speaker, keyless go antenna, inner and outer front window seals, front window and regulator removal all to get the door locking unit out of the door frame. If that doesn't daunt you, there is a repair kit so you don't have to pay the $600+ for new or ..some even epoxy it (though the labor involved would make it MUCH wiser to at least use the kit). I would really think about having a pro do this one, there are adjustment issues that can be a nightmare.. but if you have a VERY competent independent, they can use the kit and save you some bucks. Dealer will only want to use new.
(good news)
Sounds like the Puck for the trunk. This is an easy one, you just remove the liner from the lid and you will see it.
I used duck tape and epoxy to stop the leaks and the unit has lasted for 3 years. Since you didn't hear a hiss there, you will need to pull the fuse for the PSE pump to reset the leg after the repair.
Here is a link for the door kit and the puck. You might search around for them, I have this link from a couple of years ago.
http://www.cart.com.au/mono-global/view/2606
The last two items are what I'm talking about..

tomtomterrific

Thanks for the detailed answer Fayde,


I'll try to tackle the trunk myself. The drivers door is a lower priority as I can easily close the door manually.


Let me ask, how did you test the "puck" for the location(s) of the leaks?


Tom

Fayde

When you see it.. all will be clear ']
It is a plastic 'puck' with top/bottom and it usually cracks around the seam. Like an air chamber with a diaphragm. The top will begin cracking so I epoxied the seam and duct taped the hell around and over it so that it didn't leak (as bad) and the diaphragm would engage and work the latch. There is an adjustment of some kind but it was a long time ago mate. I just remember it was very easy to get it right.. and not alot you can screw up ']

I still have a little hiss after opening the trunk but the PSE has never shutdown the leg and the trunk still works fine after over 3 years.

mf219

a lotta times you can just add fluid to the reservoir to fix the trunk.

Fayde

Got my trusty Maintenance Log back from my son (started it in my pre-computer literate days), had this from my notes. BTW, the repair has lasted since 2007, confused this with the repair on my 2006 cl500 hydraulic lift repair.

Don't know where I got it but I used it for the repair:

Open trunk with metal key inside of key fob.
Remove torx screws in retainer plate.
Remove trunk lid liner cover. (clips pop out) Be gentle!

Just behind the actual metal latch you will see a black disc with a fairly thick hose attached to it. That is the disc shaped bladder that pops apart.
Remove bolts from latch and remove actuator rod from the rear of opener mechanism.
The rod is just snapped in place in the rear. (be gentle!!)
Remove latch assembly and then unsnap the disc bladder from the latch assembly.
Run a thin bead of epoxy in the seam press together firmly and reassemble the disc and wrap with duct tape all the way around the circumference of the disc. After this blow air in aperture where the hose attaches to and make sure the pin pops back out when you blow in it.
Reassemble and test.

tomtomterrific

Guys,
Enjoyed a few days with no warning lights, cruising around yesterday with my wife and everything was fine. Headed out today and got ESP/BAS/ABS and ABC warning codes all at once on startup. They had all cleared mysteriously and I thought I got lucky but now I'm feeling unlucky again. The cruise control also stopped working. The cruise readout comes on but just 3 dashes appear where the MPH should be and it won't set. Also the wiper/washer wouldn't work but after a few tries it did.
Yesterday I did activate some of the systems. I raised the car with ABC switch in a dirt parking lot with large potholes and turned off the ESP for a holeshot, but all was working fine when I parked it last night.
Any ideas???
Thanks,
Tom