Front Suspension rebuild
05-28-2015, 11:08 AM
#1
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2004 CL55 AMG
Front Suspension rebuild
My Son and I replace upper and lower control arms and the the ball joint on the steering knuckle on my 2002 W215 CL600. While it was not difficult job; it is definitely a two man job. It took about 6 hours because we had never done a W215 front end before. It could be done in 4 hours now if we did it again.
What I learned: There are 5 ball joints total per side and a some large rubber bushings. They do not not have to wear out completely to change the way the steering feels. I think the reason why is that you do not have springs that constantly bear a load. The ABC does bear the load, however, when wear in the form of sagging from worn valve blocks occur; the ball joint on the steering knuckle may wear more quickly. This is because the suspension may bottom out when pressure is not held. Mine had this problem. Over time it cascades to the other parts. Some of you may have heard a popping sound coming your front end. It is usually a worn ball joint on the steering knuckle and movement of the strut within the allen set screws that hold it in place.
Please note that all of my rubber bushings were good, but the ball joints on the arms and the knuckle were loose. The result was the front end not staying on line when driven over imperfections in the road. Also camber was off and prematurely wore out the front tires on the outside. I think alignment should be checked on these at least once per year because as wear occurs the alignment changes.
I do not know what the dealership charges, but I had only $300 in parts on this job; and $120 in an alignment with a free 6 month re-alignment. The only specialty tool we needed was a ball joint press, however, a machine shop could do this for you for about $25 or less.
If you own one these cars and have any mechanical aptitude; performing your own maintenance is the difference between having big fun or being immensely disappointed. Parting with thousands of dollars instead of a few hundred at time can have that effect you.
Next on the list is rebuilding the front ABC valve block. I have the large OEM solenoid o rings, but will use the Harbor Freight green o rings on the actual proportioning parts of the switch. I have read about it and seen enough video to go ahead and do it.
What I learned: There are 5 ball joints total per side and a some large rubber bushings. They do not not have to wear out completely to change the way the steering feels. I think the reason why is that you do not have springs that constantly bear a load. The ABC does bear the load, however, when wear in the form of sagging from worn valve blocks occur; the ball joint on the steering knuckle may wear more quickly. This is because the suspension may bottom out when pressure is not held. Mine had this problem. Over time it cascades to the other parts. Some of you may have heard a popping sound coming your front end. It is usually a worn ball joint on the steering knuckle and movement of the strut within the allen set screws that hold it in place.
Please note that all of my rubber bushings were good, but the ball joints on the arms and the knuckle were loose. The result was the front end not staying on line when driven over imperfections in the road. Also camber was off and prematurely wore out the front tires on the outside. I think alignment should be checked on these at least once per year because as wear occurs the alignment changes.
I do not know what the dealership charges, but I had only $300 in parts on this job; and $120 in an alignment with a free 6 month re-alignment. The only specialty tool we needed was a ball joint press, however, a machine shop could do this for you for about $25 or less.
If you own one these cars and have any mechanical aptitude; performing your own maintenance is the difference between having big fun or being immensely disappointed. Parting with thousands of dollars instead of a few hundred at time can have that effect you.
Next on the list is rebuilding the front ABC valve block. I have the large OEM solenoid o rings, but will use the Harbor Freight green o rings on the actual proportioning parts of the switch. I have read about it and seen enough video to go ahead and do it.
Last edited by thughes414; 05-28-2015 at 11:12 AM.
06-03-2015, 08:37 AM
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2004 CL55 AMG
CL600 Lower Control Arm Removal
Nick:
Removing the ABC strut from the arm is very easy. There are 2 "allen" set screws at the lower end of the strut that fits into the arm. These must be loosened or removed. It will just fall off. Make sure that you break free the ball joint on that arm before removing it from the strut.
TH
Removing the ABC strut from the arm is very easy. There are 2 "allen" set screws at the lower end of the strut that fits into the arm. These must be loosened or removed. It will just fall off. Make sure that you break free the ball joint on that arm before removing it from the strut.
TH
06-08-2015, 01:02 AM
#4
Member
I did the ball joints and all front lower control arms by myself and with a gimp wing. I had shoulder surgery the very next week, preplanned of course. It would've been nice to have an extra set of hands and i recommend having help. Took me two days to do both. Breaking all the ball joints loose was the absolute biggest pain. Mine is and always has been a Texas car so loosening the struts off the control arm was very easy. Also I put non ABC W220 lower control arms on in case I ever decide to delete the ABC and put a sway bar on. I hope to not have to do it again anytime soon that's for sure.
