tomtomterrific

Gents:
My shifter was "binding" and occasionally wasn't shifting smoothly into park. It failed and felt like a cable had fallen off. (the shifter was now moving freely but felt like nothing was attached to it) I had to flatbed it to my local garage and the guy diagnosed that it needed a new shifter. The part was $1000 and the labor $1000. I trusted him to do the job bu he can't explain any mechanical failure. He points out that the solenoid (brake lock out?) was disconnected. My question is...Is the shifter electronically activated or is it a mechanical process )ie the shifter moves a cable that attaches to the trans.) Thanks, Tom

Jack_88

I took the shifter out of my car and it had a cable that actually changes the gear in the transmission. Based on your description, I can't say that I entirely buy the whole need a new shifter thing. The cable is held onto the shifter with a clip, and based on your description, it sounds like that clip may have broken and the cable was not held on right. That could explain all of your symptoms. The shifter is $800 if you buy it yourself, but $1000 labor is extortion! It took me 3 hours to disassemble and reassemble the console, and that was my first time doing it. If your solenoid was disconnected, then the only way you could get in and out of park would be if it was locked open, in which case you could move it in and out of park at any time.

More importantly, the shifter is coded to your key. As part of the anti theft, if the wrong key is present, you cannot get the car out of park. So, if he replaced your shifter, he would have to replace your key and ignition module. Something smells very off here.

Welwynnick

It's a hybrid shifter with a mechanical lever AND a cable AND electronic connections. Its ridiculously complex.

The mechanical connection controls the PRND, and electronics control the 12345 shifting.

There's an interlock cable with the ignition lock that stops you removing the ignition key unless the shifter is in park.

There's also a CAN bus connection to the ignition lock and the ECU to make sure they're all using the same chassis and key numbers.

There's also an electrical solenoid interlock with the ignition and the brake pedal to stop you shifting out of park without the ignition and the brakes both being on. The little plastic lever that actuates this interlock is responsible for "stuck-in-park" syndrome.

I agree with Jack; I wouldn't trust your tech, but its difficult o say what else to do.

Nick