CL-Class (W215) 2000-2006: CL 500, CL 600

Front wont raise??

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Old 10-19-2016, 02:01 PM
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CL600 Bi Turbo 2003 Renntech, BMW E39 530D SE
Front wont raise??

Hi

I know this may be a common ABC question but all a bit odd and would like a bit of help please! I changed a front abc hose today which connects front strut to valve block. Put in new filter and at same time fitted new rollers, drive belt too.
Abc Fluid flush with new filters about 5 months ago and new valve blocks and spheres etc.
Problem is that the front will now not raise. The rear responds fine up and down using the buttons but front, just nothing? Checked wires, sensors etc no leaks, noises.
I've heard could be failed pump,air lock,pump needs re priming,etc but no warning messages apart from the car too low one and new pump was fitted about 4 years ago? Any ideas personally I think I need to re prime the pump but abc tank was never emptied, only topped up? Hope someone can help?!
Old 10-19-2016, 02:35 PM
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The only way to correctly and in a timely fashion determine the fault is to find an indy with diagnostic software that can read the module and determine the fault---else maypole after maypole!!
Old 10-19-2016, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
The only way to correctly and in a timely fashion determine the fault is to find an indy with diagnostic software that can read the module and determine the fault---else maypole after maypole!!
agreed , need to read the faults in SDS

the system may have locked the front when sensing a pressure loss to protect itself
Old 10-21-2016, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tusabes
agreed , need to read the faults in SDS

the system may have locked the front when sensing a pressure loss to protect itself
Bit of an update. Was put on Star today, slightly more confused now. Star didn't pick up any errors apart from saying it's too low at the front. Abc pump running a healthy 190-195bar, still no leaks, loads of fresh fluid in the tank, tried giving it rodeo to see of that helped but just moved the rear, still dead at the front. To me seems like a blocked/faulty valve but wouldn't know where to start...Any other ideas?
Old 11-13-2016, 04:57 PM
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CL600 Bi Turbo 2003 Renntech, BMW E39 530D SE
Update!!

Turns out the hose that was replaced (see picture) was fitted the wrong way round. Anyway the car does rise when pushing the up and down buttons but doesnt do back down. Back on STAR
pump is still healthy, the rear of the car still goes up and down too but the front is stuck. No errors and only message STAR says is car is too high (really!).



The only way to bring the car back to normal level is to bleed the fluid from the struts but then as soon as the button is pressed to raise the car or put into drive etc the front shoots up and stays up?!

There has obvioulsy been damage to something with the lines being crossed but just not sure what. The valve blocks have been checked and are ok o rings in tact and replaced anyway, used STAR to try and relive the pressure but doesnt relief pressure from the struts, nor are they in lock down mode. My thought is that could the symtoms leads to a broken pressure relief valve, or could it be internal damage to the valve blocks that cant be seen, just no errors on STAR to suggest this?

Any thoughts would be helpful, yes i agree its a dumb thing to do with putting pipes wrong way round, but just want to move forward now and get it all working again!

Thanks

Last edited by bennybelmont; 11-13-2016 at 05:06 PM. Reason: accidently submitted
Old 11-13-2016, 05:45 PM
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It really sounds like a valve block issue to me. I suppose the solenoids that control it could also have a fault.
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:58 AM
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All fixed...again! Thanks for all the help and advise, turns out by putting the pipes the wrong way round, the pressure from the fluid must have damaged one of the solenoids in the valve block. New valve block fitted, fluid flush and new filter change now all is well.

Lesson learned!
Old 12-04-2016, 10:17 AM
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Good to hear it's now been sorted. Shows the importance of properly marking the lines you remove. Also, it's possible your old valve block and solenoids are still good but the some seals got blown out. Now that you have it out, taking it apart would be very easy.
Old 12-04-2016, 10:36 AM
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Yeah me too missed the old girl! The block was stripped, cleaned with new o rings fitted but didn't fix the issue, when 12v is put up to each solenoid 3 out of the 4 you can hear working but one just doesn't respond so think it's terminal. Shame STAR doesn't "read" the valve blocks as could have saved a lot of time.
Old 12-05-2016, 02:19 AM
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I thought star can test each solenoid on the valve block ?

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