Kencl600

Hi . I have a problem my 2001 cl 600 is showing a check engine light. P0300. P0307,p0308,p0309. Sucks. I took it to mb shop they told me 02 sensor. Bank2 sensor 1. I changed it. No change. F them. They told me its the bank 2 sensor 2. Wtf. I changed that and nothing. Same old code. Change brand new spark plug. Got a new coil pack for the driver side. Still nothing. Idk what to do anymore. I out so mu h money in the car and i cant even drive it. Please help. Email me @ knadone@gmail.com thanks.

ItalianJoe1

Is it actually misfiring?

I have an issue on my car, where on very hot restarts it misfires, and it's always the front 6 cylinders, 1-3 and 7-9. I believe it's in the ignition transformer, I've tried to find information on how the circuitry is set up to determine if there is a feed for the front and rear halves that would cause it, but in reality, I will end up replacing it with a new one.

Kencl600

it's a misfire. I clear the codes and start the car up and it's fine for about 3 to 5 mins and it has a misfire and I could hear the different in the car. You can try the voltage transformer and let me know. I will be taking in the shop and I will repost feed backs. Thanks.

tusabes

V12icpack.com
they will rent you coil packs and ignition transformers to test them out , and if it fixes your problem you can keep it and buy it from them

Sojo40

I hate to hear story after story of these Indy or even d-ships doing the replace it till you fix it game. This is where a good Indy is worth it's weight in gold.
I had the same issue my right bank out and the error codes was showing the whole bank was out, so my Indy said this sometimes means the ignition transformer may be bad on that side because of the error showing the entire bank was out which doesn't always happen usually just certain sensors out per cylinder which would mean looking at the coil pack first.
Here is where a good indy is worth everything. They took their off the shelf tester ignition transformer (the black box on top of the engine) and put it on my car to see if that fixed the issue it did not which means it was the right coil pack, they tested to see if there was any other possible causes in a power or low signal loss to any components that could possibly be the issue.
The right coil pack was replaced and problem fixed.
This is why they have life time of the vehicle customers.
Sorry that you had to experience what you had to experience there is no need for such silly incompetence at this level of vehicle and complexity.
I would run from any Indy or d-ships that did not want to take a few extra steps to narrow down the problem beyond just the error codes.
Good luck to you and I would find a better indy and ask some questions on how they narrow down error codes that show more then one possible problem causing the issue. They should be able to test down the codes to narrow the real culprit.
Good luck my man.

g60wall

chasing a hot start misfire, I have a bi-turbo v12. After finally dropping 650 on the transformer and it didn't solve my issue I took a different approaches and started data logging. What I found is the hot start misfire Is caused by IAT above 180-190, above 180 is a 50/50 chance, but when over 190f and turning the car on I always experienced the misfire. The solution, properly bleeding the intercooler circuit. I haven't been able to recreate IAT above 170 since getting the intercooler system properly purged of all air.

tusabes

How do you properly bleed the ic ? I'm scared to open the intercooler cap and check the fluids for fear of introducing air in the system

g60wall

Im about to let my Indie just handle it. I am replacing my IC pump with a 010 unit and will let the indy do it. I still having super high IATs after the car has been sitting for 30-45 minutes. I can't imagine what is going to happen in the summer. I have a feeling my IC pump isn't getting the job done. We shall see!

ItalianJoe1

On these early cars, the best way (if you don't have the dealer style vacuum filler) is to use one of those big radiator filler funnels that will clip right onto the cap fitting, then run two hoses from the bleeder valves (remove the schrader cores in them) into the funnel. Fill the system until it won't take any more, pull the pump relay (middle one of the 3 in the fusebox on the right front SAM area on my CL), jumper across it to run the pump. I cycle the pump on and off every couple minutes to allow the small bubbles to coalesce, and keep adding fluid as needed.

I've done it when I changed my pump, and again when I removed the intercoolers for serious engine work, and it's not that bad at all to do.

Make sure your cap is good, mine had a failing rubber seal and was leaking, allowing air to get back in when it cooled. Replaced it and no more coolant loss from that system.

It's also advised to fit an overflow tank, there are write-ups on here. The newer V12 has a revised I/C system with a normal overflow tank, why this system doesn't have it is beyond me.

g60wall

@Joe
What are your IATS after the car has been sitting, living in Miami I can't imagine how high the IATS get. Like when i am cruising my IATs get up around 130, when I goose it they drop to 80-90. Not really sure that is normal. 010 won't be here till next week but my pump is working. I almost positive the hot-start misfires are caused by super high IATS.

Tomorrow I am going to re-bleed the system before I go to the Dyno I will use this method.

Welwynnick

The best aid to IC bleeding is a 7/16 Male to 7/16 Female refrigeration adapter that you can find all over amazon & ebay these days. Buy ten parts and use the useful one.

That will force the valve open without having to remove it.

Nick

ItalianJoe1

I've never checked, but it's a valid point. I'll be in the car some this weekend, i'll bring my scanner along with me and see what they show. With the tune on the car, when they get high it pulls all power out. I know my system is bled as I've been checking it constantly since I had the car apart. Since changing the cap, it needs no extra fluid at all.

v8mercedes

hi nick, do you have the link or which adapters do you use for bleeding?

THX a lot

Welwynnick

This sort of thing:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-A-C-Air-...cAAOSwal5YK01U

The one that fits the IC fill ports is the largest 90 deg adapter, which is the only one with a 7/16 Female adapter.

I never found that adapter for sale on it's own.

Just search for refrigeration adapter, and this is what you find.

Wish I knew about this four years ago.

Nick

v8mercedes

Thanks a lot for your help nick.

I think this adapter will work fine. it seems like a valve opener after turning on and close the valve by itself after disconnection.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162354680948...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Welwynnick

Good find. I think that should do it!


Nick