leewalton

Strange issue with my 2008 CL550 where the driver side window will roll up, but then roll back down about 2". In addition, I realized that the rear window on the driver side does not do the funky roll down, and then roll back up to completely close. Any one else seen this, or have a solution?

ajm0623

nothing wrong with your car. the front window roll down is pinch protection and can be reset easily using the window switches. see your owners guide for the procedure. if you don't have the guide let me know and I will walk you through it. the rear window performs that delayed close as the car is so air tight that it needs to wait a moment for the front windows to close then seal itself up. very smart cars we drive!

leewalton

Thank you for the reply, but I looked in the owners manual and do not see the procedure you speak of.

ajm0623

from p88 of my 2012 cl class operator's manual as it relates to resetting the window for any reason (new battery install or resetting the pinch protection/ anti-entrapment feature):

you must rest each side window if:
1/ a front side window cannot be closed automatically.
2/ a side window opens again slightly after being closed manually.

1/ close all the doors.
2/ turn the smartkey to position 1 or 2 in the ignition lock.
3/ pull the corresponding switch on the door control panel until the side window is completely closed.
4/ hold the switch for an additional second.

if the side window opens again slightly,
1/ immediately pull the corresponding switch on the door control panel until the side window is completely closed.
2/ hold the switch for an additional second.
3/ if the corresponding side window remians closed after the button has been released, the side window has been reset correctly. if this is not the case, repeat the steps above again.

Guilty

THANKS, I'm gonna try that it has been driving me nuts

JMKSAIL

I had to do this after replacing system battery in rear trunk.

It only corrected passenger side window at first, then after two times of shutting car off and getting in and out, drivers side started closing correctly also.

the procedure for my SL is to hold the switches down for 10 seconds, guess they have improved the reset time.....

leewalton

Sync doesn't work, and the driver's side front window when all of the way up goes up over the seal, and the rear on that same side doesn't go all of the way up. About to take it to repair, if no one has seen this an can provide an answer.

BLKMAMBA

I had the same issue. First the driver side rear and then the passengerside rear window. Mecedes corrected the problem for $75-95 each. I don't know the exact amount but it will not be more than $100 each.

leewalton

I went to a car wash about 2 weeks ago, and told the guy that he would have to tape the window to wash the car. When my car returned to me on the other side, the windows were working again! Oh well...

BLKMAMBA

Lol, stop being cheap and take the car to get serviced. $100-150 per window.

adamls2

LOL at you guys. This only happens to me on the driver front when I try to close all 4 windows at the same time. It starts going up and then goes back down to the middle and stops. Iv'e just learned that one window at a time wins the race Although, when I close all the windows by holding the door handle sensor, it has no problem closing all of them at the same time, but guessing since the rears go up faster it has to come down a little to let the front windows fully seal,( something like that lol).

Mamba, do you know what they did exactly to service the windows?

BLKMAMBA

All they did was reset the programming for the windows. Issue actually happened again to my the day before yesterday. The dealership charged $179 and they told me the front driver window lost programing.

alex_takian

My window on my 2011 E550 would "crack" back down an inch or so after hitting the top. I thought I activated some smoking feature, but I don't smoke and it was aggravating me to have to put the window up, twice.

Anyway, I searched and found this post and followed the instructions and it worked for me!!!

Actually afterwards I verified with the manual and this post was accurate (I guess I could have done that first, but I was in front of my computer thinking about the window).

Just wanted to say thanks!

Megan Garren

Thank you, thank you!! I thought something was definitely wrong with my car!!

MBS430

ajm0623,
thank YOU thank YOU so much for the step by step reset procedure
I had this issue on my W221 and got it fixed within 15 mins with this guidance.

thanks again ajm0623!!

Em Bee Lover

A similar closing issue, w/ a twist. I have a 2012 Cl, still under warr., w/ 27000 miles. What has been happening irregularly (sadly, I wish it happened constantly, then it could be tracked) is really irritating.


Upon entering the driver's side and closing the door w/ typical "force", allowing for the gentle close and "sucking" finish done by the "closers", the door window often leaves a gap. Not at the top, but between the rear left and front left.


That is, the two windows don't fully come together/overlap, as designed. I sense the driver's door is fully closed, which should trigger the rear to fully close. But, the rear doesn't get triggered and fully close over the driver's door window or something goofs it up.


Start driving, hear air flow, look back and sure as hell, there's a visible gap. Open door, close soundly and both windows closes, as designed.


I have separately "trained" the left rear and left front windows to a full close, holding the switch for the count of five. That has not eliminated the irritant. And, that's what it is. Sometimes it closes as it should, but too often it leaves me reclosing and cussing, as at this level of vehicle, I should not have to jack w/ something so fundamental.


Anyone else have this? Any ideas? I don't want to have to remember to "slam" the darn door each time. I know I can drive 45 miles to the dlr. and know darn well I won't be able to replicate the issue and will have wasted time and money.


Any and all help solicited. Thanks.

sloanbj

Have look about 4:05

2014CL600

I had the same issue on my 2014 CL 600. The electric door lack was defective. They replaced it and the problem was solved. It really irritated me that it only did it when I wasn't at the dealership. Finally the auto closure stopped completely and I was able to get it to the dealer for them to see the issue. The first time it happened the head mechanic came out and said my latch switch was bad but to wait until it happened again and leave it unlatched and bring it in straight away. I did and they did found the switch to be defective. The reopening of the window is usually from the pinch sensor being out of adjustment or losing programming. Either way take it to your dealer and have them reprogram the window. Also, when they connect the car to the main computer it will tell them if the sensor or switch is bad.

Anthony199

this fixed my driver window not going auto up and going down by an inch after closing on my e350 2012. Thank you

Imfamous

Had this issue tonight on my 2009 w204 c63. It was driving me nuts, the solved the problem perfectly. Thanks! It just randomly happened lol.

oxff

I had that issue after door shell replacement. There is special procedure in the diagnostic software to reset window calibration. This is software procedure and it helps to solve this issue. Try to find someone with xentry.

elvisisalive

Had this problem for ages. Driver window drops about an inch when opening door and no auto close window. Also made roof not work. Tried resetting about a million times but no cure.
Eventually took it to local garage where have it serviced and they put it on diagnostics. Said 'Door Control Module Fault' no signal from 'Hall Sensor'.
My garage said it needed a new window motor as that is where the 'Hall Sensors are. Said would cost about £500 for part and labour.
They also said that they could not guarantee this would fix it. Said to take it home and think about it.
Thought about it a lot and looked at lots of threads on this site but could not find a clear answer. Finally took the plunge and ordered a Door control Module as this seemed more likely to me.
I had unpluged all leads and plugged back in but no cure. Also disconnected battery for ten minutes but no cure. (did try resetting again)

With help from threads on this site I managed to remove the door panel and replaced the part. To my amazement it cured all the problems.

I only joined this forum so that I could pay back for the help given to me.
The replacement was really easy ( I am by no means mechanical). Took about half an hour. Got the part from 'Starparts' as suggested on this site.
Cost £150 plus postage. Arrived next day. Superb service.
Hope this helps all those with a similar problem. BTW The removed module looked perfect with no corrosion to terminals or any visual damage.

WRC-LVR

Im having similar issue on my 2012 E350 A207 cabriolet. Passenger side window pops open 1/4" when closing it manually or when closing the top. Have to look and then re-close it twice. then it stays shut. My scanner doesnt find any fault, so tomorrow I'll try the reset procedure.Ill post up if it works.

HME550

I had this exact issue with my 2015 E550 coupe.
Here is the description of the issue :

With Left Front window fully up, when the Left Rear window commanded fully up, it will go full up >> then it went down by 2 inches when the window switch released.
I have to keep repeating the "UP" command 3 times and the Left Rear window finally stays fully UP.
Also noted, the Left Rear window doesn't do the 2" roll down when the door is opened.

I tried the suggested window reset method, after stubborn four time attempts, all windows works normally . . . . until the next morning, the issue came back.
I ordered the P/N 2079004400 Desc : Rear Quarter Window Regulator (USED) from Pacific Motors. Price : $49.99 Delivered in 2 days.
Mercedes MRSP varies at around $350.

This part is located in the trunk, Left side behind the carpeting. Only need to remove one plastic button holding the carpeting and with a flashlight, it is easily accessible with one hand.
Remove the two connectors > remove the regulator > install the regulator > install the two connectors > do the window reset procedure > OK,

FYI, I decided to disect the defective regulator apart. No visible damage or corrosion or anything defective noticed. The two connectors were clean.

Another FYI, this regulator failed at 3(three) days after the car warranty EXPIRED. Go figure !
The dealer asked me if I want a diagnostic for $184 ++ and the part cost. Obviously, that didn't happen.


I hope this helps you guys.

Thank you

WRC-LVR

So just posting up that the reset fix worked perfectly for my A207 MY2012. I did perform it on each window. No issues after one week. !!!

Now if I can just find the replacement part for the top control cover in the correct beige colour and find the correct instructions to disassemble /install /reassemble. The car does have the vent system running through the center console. Any help for the p/n and where to purchase in the USA would be appreciated.....