Rebuilt Rear ABC Valve Block Today
05-12-2014, 08:15 AM
#51
Does anyone know anyone in the Bay Area who will take them
Out , rebuild them and reinstall ?
11-17-2014, 03:17 PM
#53
Senior Member
I rebuild these blocks if anyone needs them done. PM me for details.
Here are the O-ring sizes. type: Nitrile (Buna-N)
inches_____actual_____ID____OD_____width
0.07______0.739______7/8____1_______1/16
0.07______0.614______5/8____3/4_____1/16
0.07______0.551______9/16___11/16___1/16
0.07______0.489______1/2____5/8_____1/16
0.07______0.426______7/16___9/16____1/16
Here are the O-ring sizes. type: Nitrile (Buna-N)
inches_____actual_____ID____OD_____width
0.07______0.739______7/8____1_______1/16
0.07______0.614______5/8____3/4_____1/16
0.07______0.551______9/16___11/16___1/16
0.07______0.489______1/2____5/8_____1/16
0.07______0.426______7/16___9/16____1/16
Last edited by jnash; 01-06-2015 at 01:36 PM.
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mguerrero (08-15-2019)
11-17-2014, 03:25 PM
#54
MBWorld Fanatic!
jnash you could probably make a few bucks by putting together kits of these o-rings. My valve blocks are working fine now....(knocking on wood)..... but given the age of my car I'd buy them in advance for that eventual day when I need them if there were kits ready to purchase.
11-17-2014, 03:26 PM
#55
Senior Member
Switta, how are those green nitrile O-rings working out for you? I tried those in the same package you display in post #3 but they are not exact size wise to those that are originally fitted.
Is your car still holding up on static height?
Is your car still holding up on static height?
11-17-2014, 03:30 PM
#56
Senior Member
jnash you could probably make a few bucks by putting together kits of these o-rings. My valve blocks are working fine now....(knocking on wood)..... but given the age of my car I'd buy them in advance for that eventual day when I need them if there were kits ready to purchase.
11-17-2014, 09:37 PM
#58
Junior Member
Thread Starter
working good . it's been a year now and both blocks are holding up fine . yes the sizes are a bit off but it seams not enough to matter . i did not use the spacers i just put an extra o-ring on .
Last edited by Switta; 11-17-2014 at 09:39 PM.
11-18-2014, 05:17 PM
#59
Senior Member
Good to hear its still holding up, thanks for the update. What did you mean by "not using the spacers". Are you referring to the white PTFE looking seals that are next to some of the O-rings, or am I missing something obvious?
01-08-2015, 03:15 PM
#60
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cl500 w215 2000
order seals.
I rebuild these blocks if anyone needs them done. PM me for details.
Here are the O-ring sizes. type: Nitrile (Buna-N)
inches_____actual_____ID____OD_____width
0.07______0.739______7/8____1_______1/16
0.07______0.614______5/8____3/4_____1/16
0.07______0.551______9/16___11/16___1/16
0.07______0.489______1/2____5/8_____1/16
0.07______0.426______7/16___9/16____1/16
Here are the O-ring sizes. type: Nitrile (Buna-N)
inches_____actual_____ID____OD_____width
0.07______0.739______7/8____1_______1/16
0.07______0.614______5/8____3/4_____1/16
0.07______0.551______9/16___11/16___1/16
0.07______0.489______1/2____5/8_____1/16
0.07______0.426______7/16___9/16____1/16
i'm having some problems with my rear suspension, so I want to replace the o rings.
But i don't know exacelly how i need and what i need to order, and how much of them, because i'm going to take it apart after i have the rings here.
I'm from the netherland en would like to ask you if you can give me the exact link with the right O rings so that i can order them.
the front suspension is already done, i had replaced the whole block, that's good now.
Thanks
greets Danny
01-08-2015, 04:55 PM
#61
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2005 CL65
Ya if someone could post the part numbers from a distributor that ships internationally that would be awesome. I dont think mine are in too bad of shape (I work out of town and after a week or 2 it has dropped in one corner or another) but I have never got a code. Thinking I may spend a day and just rebuild them all one day this summer if I can get all the parts ready to get it done.
Thanks
Thanks
01-16-2015, 05:31 PM
#62
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2006 S500 4matic, 2004 CL55 AMG, 1986 560SEC
I can't open the pictures for some reason?
I had to replace my rear valve several years ago and for the life of me, I couldn't see how you could open these valves without destroying them?
The new valve I installed (different manufacturer) appears to be made to open up-
Thanks!
Elm
I had to replace my rear valve several years ago and for the life of me, I couldn't see how you could open these valves without destroying them?
The new valve I installed (different manufacturer) appears to be made to open up-
Thanks!
Elm
02-04-2015, 09:26 AM
#64
this valve block appears different than the one in the youtube valve block repair video. how do you remove the solenoids on this type?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141512421148?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141512421148?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Last edited by biker349; 02-04-2015 at 09:34 AM.
02-04-2015, 10:59 AM
#65
Senior Member
Now that I look back at my original post #53 on O-ring sizes it's a bit confusing and some have kindly pointed that out to me. So to clarify here is what I use in the repair process in case you want to have a go yourself:
For those who don't want to please PM for details and I can help do this work for you.
BUNA 90 O-rings from APG
H90018 .739" ID x .070" C
H90015 .551" ID x .070" C or V90015
H90014 .489" ID x .070" C
H70013 .426" ID x .070" C
H90016 .614" ID x .070" C
This list currently does not include the large o-ring that seals to solenoid to the block as it's doesn't wear.
Some solenoids use what look like PTFE white spacers along with the O-rings while other blocks have spacers made of square cut rubber rings. If yours have these rubber spacers, which sometimes are damaged presumably on original assembly, the parts numbers for these are as follows;
APG #SH70013 , #SH70014 , #SH70015 , #SH70016
The square cut rings can be tricky to install without splitting them. You can hear them split on reassembly.
Quantities are a couple per solenoid.
For those who don't want to please PM for details and I can help do this work for you.
BUNA 90 O-rings from APG
H90018 .739" ID x .070" C
H90015 .551" ID x .070" C or V90015
H90014 .489" ID x .070" C
H70013 .426" ID x .070" C
H90016 .614" ID x .070" C
This list currently does not include the large o-ring that seals to solenoid to the block as it's doesn't wear.
Some solenoids use what look like PTFE white spacers along with the O-rings while other blocks have spacers made of square cut rubber rings. If yours have these rubber spacers, which sometimes are damaged presumably on original assembly, the parts numbers for these are as follows;
APG #SH70013 , #SH70014 , #SH70015 , #SH70016
The square cut rings can be tricky to install without splitting them. You can hear them split on reassembly.
Quantities are a couple per solenoid.
02-04-2015, 11:00 AM
#66
Senior Member
this valve block appears different than the one in the youtube valve block repair video. how do you remove the solenoids on this type?
00 06 Mercedes W215 CL500 CL55 AMG CL600 SL55 AMG SL600 Suspension Valve Block | eBay
00 06 Mercedes W215 CL500 CL55 AMG CL600 SL55 AMG SL600 Suspension Valve Block | eBay
03-23-2015, 06:52 PM
#67
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CL 500
02 CL 500
I live in SoCal. Could anyone refer me to a mechanic that will do a high quality job rebuilding my valve blocks at a reasonable cost. I can't afford taking the vehicle into a dealer. Please assist me with a referral.
Thank you
Thank you
03-23-2015, 07:09 PM
#68
Senior Member
Yes, send them to me. I rebuild ABC blocks regulary. I'll pm u details.
05-11-2015, 12:30 PM
#69
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04 sl 600
I have the same issue
Well as some of you know i was having problems with the right side dropping , it became very bad after i flushed the system and would drop within 30 min .
so today i pulled the rear valve block and rebuilt it , to my surprise it was very easy to do and thought i would share some pictures of what i did .
i used the green o-rings that are CHF compatible .
it is very easy to remove and you will only lose about 3/4 liter of fluid .
jack the car and take the weight off the rear suspension , there are nice spots to put jack stands just behind the rear wheels .
here is the unit out of the car and ready to disassemble i removed the bracket and relief ball on the bench .
when removing the clips i placed a small screwdriver under each side while very carefully squeezing them with pliers .
once the clips are removed they are very easy to turn 45degrees , i then put a wrench under them to help with leverage and pulled them out
another handy pair of pliers to use
as you can see the o-rings are shot
block all clean
new o-rings installed
the other ones
all done and ready to go back in car
the solenoids are very easy to push back in and turn to where the need to be , everything is color coded but i did mark the blocks per color just in case i washed the paint off .
overall a very easy job and took about 2hrs to complete .
once i had it back in the car i lowered it down with the jack still holding the rear up to where it would sit normally and started the car for about 30 seconds and pushed the abc raise button on the dash and then lowered it , shut the car off and topped of the fluid about a half a liter .
started it again and cycled through the raise and lower about 10 times then topped off fluid , it now has been sitting for over 2 hrs and has not dropped at all , the o rings were very hard and were coming apart .
front valve will be next .
Dave
so today i pulled the rear valve block and rebuilt it , to my surprise it was very easy to do and thought i would share some pictures of what i did .
i used the green o-rings that are CHF compatible .
it is very easy to remove and you will only lose about 3/4 liter of fluid .
jack the car and take the weight off the rear suspension , there are nice spots to put jack stands just behind the rear wheels .
here is the unit out of the car and ready to disassemble i removed the bracket and relief ball on the bench .
when removing the clips i placed a small screwdriver under each side while very carefully squeezing them with pliers .
once the clips are removed they are very easy to turn 45degrees , i then put a wrench under them to help with leverage and pulled them out
another handy pair of pliers to use
as you can see the o-rings are shot
block all clean
new o-rings installed
the other ones
all done and ready to go back in car
the solenoids are very easy to push back in and turn to where the need to be , everything is color coded but i did mark the blocks per color just in case i washed the paint off .
overall a very easy job and took about 2hrs to complete .
once i had it back in the car i lowered it down with the jack still holding the rear up to where it would sit normally and started the car for about 30 seconds and pushed the abc raise button on the dash and then lowered it , shut the car off and topped of the fluid about a half a liter .
started it again and cycled through the raise and lower about 10 times then topped off fluid , it now has been sitting for over 2 hrs and has not dropped at all , the o rings were very hard and were coming apart .
front valve will be next .
Dave
06-15-2015, 09:30 AM
#71
I'm very keen on replacing these & found the seals but having great difficulty replacing them
06-26-2015, 12:55 AM
#72
Super Member
Where can I get the pictures?
07-13-2015, 11:07 AM
#73
These Teflon seals are actually backup rings to prevent the o'rings from getting chewed up when the sillinoid is actuating. If not installed the o'rings will wear prematurely. TO INSTALL: you must heat up the ptfe Teflon ring evenly with torch the place over the part it should shrink back to its normal size if not reheat again while on part, then immidietly place a cold wet rag over the seal and it will bring it back to original size.
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ChrisVannoy (07-31-2021)
07-13-2015, 02:07 PM
#74
Senior Member
What?? there is no need to ever use heat on any portion of a ABC valve block rebuild. I rebuild them every week. You are likely to cause irrevocable damage by heating up those blocks that are manufactured using white spacers either side of the o-rings. Best to just leave them alone and not mess with them. Also, since we are on the topic, never replace the solenoid plunger blue/green? color o-ring seal. Not at least until I have located the exact source of them. They come in two parts and require special handling to install them without damaging them.
Last edited by jnash; 07-13-2015 at 02:11 PM.
07-13-2015, 06:10 PM
#75
What?? there is no need to ever use heat on any portion of a ABC valve block rebuild. I rebuild them every week. You are likely to cause irrevocable damage by heating up those blocks that are manufactured using white spacers either side of the o-rings. Best to just leave them alone and not mess with them. Also, since we are on the topic, never replace the solenoid plunger blue/green? color o-ring seal. Not at least until I have located the exact source of them. They come in two parts and require special handling to install them without damaging them.
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ChrisVannoy (07-31-2021)
