Driver's door electronics not functioning, '03 CL55
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Driver's door electronics not functioning, '03 CL55
I’m experiencing the infamous non-functioning door controls in my CL55. I’ve read through all the information I can find on the problem, so I thought I’d run it past you guys and see what experience I might gain.
My initial symptom was that after getting in the car and closing the door, the driver’s side windows would not reseal after dropping down for the door to open. I could close them the rest of the way with the switch, but they normally wouldn’t close on their own. If I would open and close the door 10 times they may reseat once. After about a week of this all of the controls on the door stopped working. Seat adjustment, heating and cooling, window and mirror operation and trunk opening and closing stopped working. The soft close function of the door doesn’t work either. The rear window switches on the back of the center console don’t work. The door will still lock and unlock with the remote.
I was able to get the door to function for just a second by firmly moving the connector between the door and the body. I figured my problem must be a damaged wire so I took the door apart and disconnected the door control module. I pulled the wires completely out of the door and checked them all for damage. I couldn’t find any so I taped them all back up, ran them back into the door and put everything back together. I pulled the 40 amp fuse (f13 I think) for the door control and the one under the passenger rear seat for the air pump to reset things. Still no go. I can’t get into my indy until Wednesday to have the car put on STAR.
I hope it’s the door control module as that would be the easiest fix. As it is, I can’t adjust my seat or open or fully close my windows. The only widow I can open on the car is the passenger side window with that door switch. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
My initial symptom was that after getting in the car and closing the door, the driver’s side windows would not reseal after dropping down for the door to open. I could close them the rest of the way with the switch, but they normally wouldn’t close on their own. If I would open and close the door 10 times they may reseat once. After about a week of this all of the controls on the door stopped working. Seat adjustment, heating and cooling, window and mirror operation and trunk opening and closing stopped working. The soft close function of the door doesn’t work either. The rear window switches on the back of the center console don’t work. The door will still lock and unlock with the remote.
I was able to get the door to function for just a second by firmly moving the connector between the door and the body. I figured my problem must be a damaged wire so I took the door apart and disconnected the door control module. I pulled the wires completely out of the door and checked them all for damage. I couldn’t find any so I taped them all back up, ran them back into the door and put everything back together. I pulled the 40 amp fuse (f13 I think) for the door control and the one under the passenger rear seat for the air pump to reset things. Still no go. I can’t get into my indy until Wednesday to have the car put on STAR.
I hope it’s the door control module as that would be the easiest fix. As it is, I can’t adjust my seat or open or fully close my windows. The only widow I can open on the car is the passenger side window with that door switch. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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As I was typing this thread, I thought about the “all close” feature by pressing and holding the interior circulation button on the HVAC controls. I went out to the garage and tried this button and it made the driver’s side rear go up the rest of the way with the door shut. The driver’s side window still does not move.
#3
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Based on your symptoms I would have bet it was the wiring, but since you already checked that I can't do anything but wish you luck figuring g it out.
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My module is OK, it has to be a fault somewhere else. Here's an interesting factoid. You can test a door control module by removing the one from the other door and plugging the suspect module into that door. I just did this with my driver's side module and it works on the passenger side. It moves the driver's seat from the passenger side of the car, but it works. I plugged the passenger side module in on the driver's side and got nothing. Now I have to figure out where the problem is. Any suggestions how to go about this?
#5
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Did you check the wiring inside of the accordian boot between the front part of the door and the body? Wires inside the boot have been known to pull apart and break in there.
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Yeah, as I said, I pulled all the wire bundles completely out of the door to inspect them. I'm thinking I must have missed a damaged wire. Given my symptoms, I'd like to know which specific wire being cut could cause my problem.
#7
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Sometimes you just need to check continuity from end to end to diagnose.
My guess is a broken ground wire in the accordion boot area.
I have also seen a faulty SAM cause some of these issues.
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Well, found it...
The first time I took the door apart I didn't cut back far enough to get to the break. I'm really good at taking these doors apart now though...
The first time I took the door apart I didn't cut back far enough to get to the break. I'm really good at taking these doors apart now though...
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Everything now works, but I'm getting a SRS defect warning now. I took the door panel back apart to make sure I plugged the air bag back in, and it is. Always something...
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
You are going to need to scan the car with a STAR to find out what is causing the SRS warning. Mine showed a bad passenger seat occupancy sensor. After I replaced that, it said bad control module. After I replaced that and had it calibrated at the dealer my SRS warning is finally gone.
#12
thanks for the pictures.
#13
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Once the air bag is unplugged, the module stores a code and the only way to clear it is with a scanner that scans the air bag module. Once the code is cleared, the light should go out.
#15
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So, the next question would be did Tom turn the ignition on at any time he had things unplugged.
If so, your analogy is correct.
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I was sure that I had. I plugged the door control module in and sat the door panel on a bucket so I could plug the power window and trunk release wires back in and test everything before I put the door panel back on. I couldn't remember if I plugged the air bag in before I put the fuse back in and turned on the ignition to test the controls. I took the car by a local indy yesterday, and they say the codes are for no communication with the SRS module. They tell me it could be a SAM or the SRS module. The mechanic said I would probably have to remove the center console and check the connections on the SRS module. I asked the guy if I might have damaged the drivers door air bag wires when I was working on the door. He said if that were the case the problem wouldn't show as a loss of communication with the SRS module. What do you guys think? I was trying to avoid springing for a scanner, but it looks like it may be unavoidable. How else will I know if I've corrected the problem if the light won't re-set without a scan?
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C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
You need to hook a Ampere-Meter in between you +pole and the +line and then wait until canbus goes into sleep and pull one fuse after another, to see what causes the drain.