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I have a few questions regarding this modification. I have been considering doing a similar setup on my CL65.
1) Which head unit do you recommend? Price?
2) Did you replace the wiring to the doors?
3) Which cross over did you use? Is it a 2way or 3way?
4) What are the speaker sizes for the doors? Did you use or leave off the passive crossover?
Thanks in advance for any information.
Sorry for the late reply.
1. No brand, I import them from china price about 600 after duties. You can find several on Ebay but one thing about china is that the units all look the same but they are not, I bought several till I found one that works properly. If you buy from Ebay just make sure you can return it on their dime if not satisfied.
2.No, the head units I import come with an extension cable(not sure about others, ebay Amazon etc.)that plugs into the factory amp harness then gives you speaker leads out which you connect your aftermarket amp to.
3.I just changed my speakers to focal 30th anniv. Edition which uses a 2way crossover. Tweeter and woofer. I have the crossover installed in the door.
4. Speakers are 6.5 inch front of door back portion of door is 4 inch I just left the 4 inch stocks alone.
You can also run an active setup which I am going to do next, once my Audison Bit One comes back from service. I prefer active setups but it gets pricey fast and I will have to run wires to the door once I decide to do that.
I'm having a little trouble visualizing the wiring for the amplifier. Is the stock amplifier bypassed? Do you use the built-in amplifier (if the head unit has one) or a separate amp? If you use a separate amp does it require line level inputs?
Do you utilize the stock wiring harness or do you need to run an additional harness to the trunk?
Yes the stock amp is bypassed. I do NOT use the amplifier that is built into the unit, instead I used a RE Audio 90.4 and bridged it into 2 channels to run my Front mids. The aftermarket amp (90.4) does not require line level input but it does have them and they do have auto sensing for remote turn-on purposes so you don't have to provide a remote turn on lead (wire) I did not use the line level inputs though. I used traditional RCA (interconnects) from the main head unit to the RE Audio 90.4 amp.
The head unit comes with an extension cable that goes from the front of the car to the back where the stock amp is located and plugs into the stock amp wiring harness so you don't have to cut any wires, it then has 4 wires that you can use to connect an aftermarket amp to, which is connected to the factory amp harness and thus the factory speaker wires.
China Head unit connects to RCAs and one end of extension cable( up front in dash)
>
RCA 's connect to RE Audio amps (rear of car)
Extension cable (other end) connects to back of car (factory amp wiring harness in trunk)
>
RE Audio 90.4 speaker outputs connect to 4 wires on extension cable in trunk of car
I hope that kind of clears it up. If you have any more questions let me know.
I like what you can do with that head unit. My car has COMAND, but I might change it out now. I've read several threads over the years, describing all the things you can do with aftermarket units. They all come back saying they're fun, but its the stock things you CAN'T do that's the decider.
This generation sounds better - more like COMAND plus a tablet. Is that a fair comment?
You said the factory steering wheel volume still works.
What about the other steering wheel controls?
In particular, what happens the multi-function display on the speedo?
Cheers, Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 11-17-2015 at 01:26 PM.
I like what you can do with that head unit. My car has COMAND, but I might change it out now. I've read several threads over the years, describing all the things you can do with aftermarket units. They all come back saying they're fun, but its the stock things you CAN'T do that's the decider.
This generation sounds better - more like COMAND plus a tablet. Is that a fair comment?
You said the factory steering wheel volume still works.
What about the other steering wheel controls?
In particular, what happens the multi-function display on the speedo?
Cheers, Nick
I would say that it is similar to COMMAND with a tablet.
You can use the steering wheel controls to change the Volume, Tracks and answer/end calls. As a matter of fact you can map the steering wheels buttons to do a whole host of things via the head unit. I will add a video shortly to my Youtube page.
The multifunction display on speedo remains (Almost) fully functional, the only annoying thing is when cycling through different settings /menus on via the SW controls it changes tracks. Also no Audio track information is displayed on the speedo. You also lose clock adjustment but a forum member here (Sick430) is able to help with that via STAR diag.
Overall I am very pleased with the units and I am working with the OEM to refine the units.
Did you use an aftermarket steering wheel control adapter or is it built in to that H/U? Any idea what the RCA line output voltage is on that unit? Does it have a built in EQ?
Did you use an aftermarket steering wheel control adapter or is it built in to that H/U? Any idea what the RCA line output voltage is on that unit? Does it have a built in EQ?
The rca voltage is 2v
Steering wheel control is via a can bus adapter that comes with the unit.
Yes it does have an EQ builtin
Very slick install of the system, definitely one of nicest I've seen.
I've actually purchased a double DIN fascia for mine which I got from Germany as I was looking to install a Pioneer HU to replace COMAND.
However, actually seeing one of these Android units in action has made me wonder as it really does look OEM and I love how you can run DashCommand on it also which is really neat (albeit with BT lag that I get on my iPhone anyway).
Now, I know you stated newer W215 & W220s are fully fibre based. Can you give me the heads up on mine, it is a 2003 COMAND 2.0 system. CD Changer and Phone are fibre based, NAV is CD based in the HU. However, I have no idea how the BOSE amp is driven.
If I can just swap out my COMAND 2.0 unit to this and retain the BOSE system that would be ideal. I could always upgrade to something better later if I wished too also.
That's an industry-standard interface between many recent smart phones and head units. You hook the two together, and you can use the head unit as if its your smart phone. the head unit has all the resources and applications that your phone does.
I've seen this head unit advertised on ebay UK, and I think they claim to do this.
Pretty sure they all support the MirrorLink feature Nick.
I've purchased a Pioneer AVH-X5700DAB for my Jag which supports it also so looking forward to trying it out. Went all out with new speakers, amp, sub, cabling etc, so if it doesn't turn out to be a complete PITA I will completely rewire the CL also.
I have the TomTom navigation app on my phone so if the HU can display that it would be beyond awesome for me! Just anxious to find out how reliable/responsive it is...
Whats up guys I finally decided to post some of my system install pic's let me know if you guys have any questions.
Double Din Android 4.4.4 Navi Unit (I import these from china)
2 12" RE Audio SXXv2 Subwoofers (I am a dealer of their woofers)
Custom box built by me (bandpass 1:1:1 ratio)
Custom trunk paneling (by me)
MT Everest 10k mono amplifier (from RE Audio)
Stock Alternator
Diehard AGM Battery
0 Gauge true copper wire from + and - of battery to amp
Custom AMG logo (laser etched in house)
3/4" Plexi Glass for face of box
2 RE Audio 6.5" XXX Components w/crossovers (1 per door)
1 RE Audio 90.4 4CH Amplifier for mids
Dynamat in doors, rear deck, rear seat and side pillars
Generic backup camera (to be replaced)
LED's in box.
If I forgot something that you see in the pics let me know and ill explain what it is.
ALL installation and design work was performed by myself with the help of a friend.
Thanks, hope you guys like it if anyone wants to hear it let me know. I have almost no rattle since the box is ported into my rear deck through the original subwoofer port and the box is a bandpass which means the drivers are not firing into the trunk.
Port was later changed from round to square due to port turbulence above 34ms, to eliminate port noise, both pic's are included.
I know I'm late to this thread, but I have an 05 CL600 and am looking at the zillion versions of these headunits as I plan an install. Has anyone tried the 5.1 OS ones. I found a unit that says it's compatible with the W215, but then later lists different vehicles so I'm unsure:
Is there a particular source that's more trustworthy than others? They are on ebay and aliexpress and other vendors but they all seem to come from China/Hong Kong. Is there a US distributor?
The OEM look is appealing of course but if it's form over function then I'm not interested.
A few questions from those who have taken the plunge:
Bear in mind I have the NGT2 with the Bose speakers.
1) Is there any way to retain the factory CD changer?
2) Does the dash still display track info or any info from the headunit?
3) Does anyone know the preamp voltage? Is the sound clean or do I need something like an audison bit one to bring it up to spec?
4) will a 5 channel amp power all the factory speakers and sub or do I need a bi amp setup?
5) Are there any other recommended head units that fit the dash and integrate well with the steering wheel controls I should consider?
6) I have a set of JL's legendary 10" IB4 free air subs new in the box I never used from my competition days. Has anyone done a good infinite baffle install in our coupes?
I'm glad to see someone part a full build!
Ive gone a similar route as far as subs go, ive got 2 JLW6 12S in a blow through ported through the rear deck.
Its in a box that was originally made for a bed to cab blowthrough in one of my trucks, but i ended up doing 16 w3 8s in that truck with a 4000w Mojo. Its pretty loud..lol
Anyway, i know it could use some carpet but it does the job. I've got an extra kenwood 4 channel that, after seeing your post, I'll be puting in this week or next! Probably worth some jl c3s in the doors.
when i pulled the doors off the other day i saw there was an extra bracket holding the little 4 in speaker or whatever it is, and im thinking about doing 2 sets of components in each door..
Maybe.
That head unit is awesome in your pics. You completely changed my mind about never puting an aftermarket unit in. I am about to read your post all the way through so excuse my next question if it has already been answered,
Do you have a model# of the head unit??
Thanks for all the pics and for info!
Kenny
I recently installed a pioneer unit in my 2005 cl500. Rain water had leaked into my trunk and destroyed several of the expensive modules on the left side. I ran 3 rca cables, an antenna extension cable, and a wire for turning the amp on to the trunk where in installed a 5 channel amp to power the factory speakers.
the problem i am having is with FM reception. I have used an adapter to plug into the factory antenna but i am getting very poor reception. any suggestions on using the factory FM antenna? how does the android unit hook up to the antenna?
if any one is wondering i used switched voltage from the cig lighter and always on power from one of the wires plugged into the back of the factory head unit. having to run all these cables has been a hassle and i want to get my radio working correctly... thanks for any input
I recently installed a pioneer unit in my 2005 cl500. Rain water had leaked into my trunk and destroyed several of the expensive modules on the left side. I ran 3 rca cables, an antenna extension cable, and a wire for turning the amp on to the trunk where in installed a 5 channel amp to power the factory speakers.
the problem i am having is with FM reception. I have used an adapter to plug into the factory antenna but i am getting very poor reception. any suggestions on using the factory FM antenna? how does the android unit hook up to the antenna?
if any one is wondering i used switched voltage from the cig lighter and always on power from one of the wires plugged into the back of the factory head unit. having to run all these cables has been a hassle and i want to get my radio working correctly... thanks for any input
You might check that fm adapter, and make sure the metal part on it is insulated on the outside. And make sure its pushed in real well where the two adapters meet. I only say this because I've had this problem.. also check to see if it happens worse when you plug something into the cigarette lighter .
Im going off experience installing in other types of cars but doing those things will help you determine where your problem is
Kenny
Looking for good SQ enough SPL to feel. I will seal the trunk from interior as good as I possibly can with sound deadener and foam. The IB 312 has an x-max of 44mm! Lots of throw so the opening will have to be enlarged or I'll mount it with an adapter that is CNC'd from ABS.
I have an 05 CL600 and am also looking to do free air/infinite baffle. I have two brand new JL 10IB4s I bought years ago planning to do an install in another car. I used to compete for SQ and I can tell you that a well executed free air setup can be very impressive -- especially in German Cars. I can't speak specifically to the W215 but am excited by the prospect given the existing 10" rear shelf sub.
I've also been scouring ebay and aliexpress trying to decide what unit to by and what accessories and connectors are needed for the install. Please keep this thread going.
One thing I'd like to know is what type of preamp output voltage these headunits have. I've asked the sellers and they keep giving me watts lol smh.
I Think preamp output on the Chinese decks is low, maybe 2V. If you are looking for a decent modern upgrade I'm sure they are great, If you used to compete for SQ, I doubt they are the best option. I wish there was a DD equivalent to my old DEH99PRS without spending a couple thousand $+.
My system install has taken a back seat to performance work. I broke my back in December, and did not get my "winter modding" done so I'm focused on getting the car to run 10.5x 1/4 mile runs right now. The system will just have to wait until next winter. I'll definitely post up a thread about how it goes, good or bad.
I am curious how the JL's compare to the FI IB sub. From my research I think the FI will be hard to beat. Main concern will be trying to keep it from shaking the entire package shelf apart. With this setup I should be able to see visible rear window flex for sure, so the parts inside are going to want to shake a lot. Love the look of windshields and doors flexing. My son's Chrysler 300 makes the wipers dance. Now he has built a box for my Superduty that causes windshield flex in it, and it still only has a little Sony Xpolde amp. It will be ridiculous once the big amp goes in.
I Think preamp output on the Chinese decks is low, maybe 2V. If you are looking for a decent modern upgrade I'm sure they are great, If you used to compete for SQ, I doubt they are the best option. I wish there was a DD equivalent to my old DEH99PRS without spending a couple thousand $+.
My system install has taken a back seat to performance work. I broke my back in December, and did not get my "winter modding" done so I'm focused on getting the car to run 10.5x 1/4 mile runs right now. The system will just have to wait until next winter. I'll definitely post up a thread about how it goes, good or bad.
I am curious how the JL's compare to the FI IB sub. From my research I think the FI will be hard to beat. Main concern will be trying to keep it from shaking the entire package shelf apart. With this setup I should be able to see visible rear window flex for sure, so the parts inside are going to want to shake a lot. Love the look of windshields and doors flexing. My son's Chrysler 300 makes the wipers dance. Now he has built a box for my Superduty that causes windshield flex in it, and it still only has a little Sony Xpolde amp. It will be ridiculous once the big amp goes in.
I cant speak to the others but The jls sound awesome.i worked at an install shop for a couple years, and i alwayssss had a thing for jl audio. I had this blowthrough with the two jl w6s n my c230 for about a week and the sunroof came off its rails opening it one day, the cl55 seems to be on its way now too, making odd clinking noises when opening the sunroof. The whole roof flexes, the rear view nirror is useless. Lol
My port comes right up at the back window and you can absolutely see it moving on those low notes.. just waiting for it to go boom-crash and my window fall out.
The front door panels flex a whole bunch too lol.
Im rattling this banz apart!
The things we put up with for our obnoxiously loud music, right?
Kenny
I Think preamp output on the Chinese decks is low, maybe 2V. If you are looking for a decent modern upgrade I'm sure they are great, If you used to compete for SQ, I doubt they are the best option. I wish there was a DD equivalent to my old DEH99PRS without spending a couple thousand $+.
My system install has taken a back seat to performance work. I broke my back in December, and did not get my "winter modding" done so I'm focused on getting the car to run 10.5x 1/4 mile runs right now. The system will just have to wait until next winter. I'll definitely post up a thread about how it goes, good or bad.
I am curious how the JL's compare to the FI IB sub. From my research I think the FI will be hard to beat. Main concern will be trying to keep it from shaking the entire package shelf apart. With this setup I should be able to see visible rear window flex for sure, so the parts inside are going to want to shake a lot. Love the look of windshields and doors flexing. My son's Chrysler 300 makes the wipers dance. Now he has built a box for my Superduty that causes windshield flex in it, and it still only has a little Sony Xpolde amp. It will be ridiculous once the big amp goes in.
I cant speak to the others but The jls sound awesome.i worked at an install shop for a couple years, and i alwayssss had a thing for jl audio. I had this blowthrough with the two jl w6s n my c230 for about a week and the sunroof came off its rails opening it one day, the cl55 seems to be on its way now too, making odd clinking noises when opening the sunroof. The whole roof flexes, the rear view nirror is useless. Lol
My port comes right up at the back window and you can absolutely see it moving on those low notes.. just waiting for it to go boom-crash and my window fall out.
The front door panels flex a whole bunch too lol.
Im rattling this banz apart!
The things we put up with for our obnoxiously loud music, right?
Kenny
Sorry about double post, when i part on my phone it took my back to the edit page and i pushed sabre again.
I haven't been able to figure out how to delete a post? Sorry again
I Think preamp output on the Chinese decks is low, maybe 2V. If you are looking for a decent modern upgrade I'm sure they are great, If you used to compete for SQ, I doubt they are the best option. I wish there was a DD equivalent to my old DEH99PRS without spending a couple thousand $+.
My system install has taken a back seat to performance work. I broke my back in December, and did not get my "winter modding" done so I'm focused on getting the car to run 10.5x 1/4 mile runs right now. The system will just have to wait until next winter. I'll definitely post up a thread about how it goes, good or bad.
I am curious how the JL's compare to the FI IB sub. From my research I think the FI will be hard to beat. Main concern will be trying to keep it from shaking the entire package shelf apart. With this setup I should be able to see visible rear window flex for sure, so the parts inside are going to want to shake a lot. Love the look of windshields and doors flexing. My son's Chrysler 300 makes the wipers dance. Now he has built a box for my Superduty that causes windshield flex in it, and it still only has a little Sony Xpolde amp. It will be ridiculous once the big amp goes in.
I'm new to the CL600. The first thing I did was replace the wheels. It was a gamble because everything I read said they would rub and they don't at all - though I haven't lowered my car.
Speaking of tuning, I'm trying to contact Jerry at Eurocharged to see if I can get the preferred pricing on the ECU tune that was advertised on the forum and is 3x's the price now. Does anyone have the hookup?
As for sound, I have a bunch of new old stock equipment like a/d/s 325is', harman/kardon TC600, Soundstream Reference 644s, etc that I'm dying to use in either this car or spread between this and my RS6. But I plan to do the system in stages.
Head unit and external amp is phase 1 since I'm told the look-alike OEM unit with a good amp alone, bypassing the fiber optic, is a substantial upgrade. And yes, I too hear door rattling (now glass flex yet) with the factory setup so I can only image what you're experiening. Running 10.5 with all that Dynamat is going to be a challenge...lol.
But seriously, the acoustics of the car are promising from what I can tell. And the CL600 with all that leather really deadens things in the cabin.
I'm new to the CL600. The first thing I did was replace the wheels. It was a gamble because everything I read said they would rub and they don't at all - though I haven't lowered my car.
Speaking of tuning, I'm trying to contact Jerry at Eurocharged to see if I can get the preferred pricing on the ECU tune that was advertised on the forum and is 3x's the price now. Does anyone have the hookup?
As for sound, I have a bunch of new old stock equipment like a/d/s 325is', harman/kardon TC600, Soundstream Reference 644s, etc that I'm dying to use in either this car or spread between this and my RS6. But I plan to do the system in stages.
Head unit and external amp is phase 1 since I'm told the look-alike OEM unit with a good amp alone, bypassing the fiber optic, is a substantial upgrade. And yes, I too hear door rattling (now glass flex yet) with the factory setup so I can only image what you're experiening. Running 10.5 with all that Dynamat is going to be a challenge...lol.
But seriously, the acoustics of the car are promising from what I can tell. And the CL600 with all that leather really deadens things in the cabin.
Just got my eurocharged tune& cable from amazon prime. 400$ last week!
Mine is a cl55.
Kenny
I have an 05 CL600 and am also looking to do free air/infinite baffle. I have two brand new JL 10IB4s I bought years ago planning to do an install in another car. I used to compete for SQ and I can tell you that a well executed free air setup can be very impressive -- especially in German Cars. I can't speak specifically to the W215 but am excited by the prospect given the existing 10" rear shelf sub.
I've also been scouring ebay and aliexpress trying to decide what unit to by and what accessories and connectors are needed for the install. Please keep this thread going.
One thing I'd like to know is what type of preamp output voltage these headunits have. I've asked the sellers and they keep giving me watts lol smh.
when I bought my car, it had a box built into the rear baffle for 2-10” subs
I had a 2x12” box for a great price so used that for years.
I was looking into weight reduction and found a very cheap pair of pioneer 10” subwoofers, I think maybe $60-80 so I said “why not”
I mounted them in the pre existing baffle in an open-air style setup. It actually sounded the same as 2x12’s in sealed box in the trunk in terms of thump and loudness. One major upside was the 2x10’s sounded more musical as well. One downside is I missed some of those very low frequencies you can only hit with 12” subs..
one of my cheap 10” subs eventually blew out, I believe from the car sitting in the hot summer heat at times. I have some tint (oem?) over the rear window but the black interior on these black cars in Florida gets pretty brutal
next I decided to build an adapter plate of sorts to install the 2x12” subs in my trunk. Kicker cvr subs
i have not had a chance to run these with a powerful amp like I had before... but the 10” speakers sounded much better. I’m not sure if these kicker cvr subs are particularly weak in open air setups but something about the ten inch subs in the open air w215 setup was fairly impressive
11-13-2015, 04:45 AM
