cl55 transmission removal help?
07-19-2016, 12:57 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
cl55 transmission removal help?
Hello all, I've been looking around trying to find a thread on removing the transmission from a CL55 AMG, to no avail.
i figure its out there somewhere but as i said i've had no luck.
if anyone can point me towards a thread that has the info i will gladly use it, if not i will be posting pictures as i go, and hopefully getting some much needed info from people who have already been down that road.
last week at the strip i started feeling a bit of looseness in the shifter handle going down the track hard on the throttle (obviously).
it wasn't much, but when something is different, you know.
it felt as though the transmission was lifting up ever so slighty (smoothly also) or possibly twisting, untill it shifted and would sit down and start again as rpms got higher. this is the best way i know how to explain it.
the car still drives wonderfully and if i didnt already have a feel for the car i doubt i would be able to notice it .
this was my second time at the track after installing the 175mmm crank pulley. the first time i felt nothing.
SO, this gives me the perfect excuse to pull the transmission- change the seals, filter, transmission mounts & ENGINE mounts while i'm at it.
And since i dont plan on pulling the transmission again for a good amount of time, i will go ahead and order the 3000 rpm stall converter.
having my tranny out, what, if any other things should i look at knocking out at the same time?
Thank you for the help in advance, i'm on days off so i'm ready to get something done. while the car is on ramps i'm going to pull the rear tires off and take them to the tire shop for some new 305/35/19s also.
Thanks
Kenny
i figure its out there somewhere but as i said i've had no luck.
if anyone can point me towards a thread that has the info i will gladly use it, if not i will be posting pictures as i go, and hopefully getting some much needed info from people who have already been down that road.
last week at the strip i started feeling a bit of looseness in the shifter handle going down the track hard on the throttle (obviously).
it wasn't much, but when something is different, you know.
it felt as though the transmission was lifting up ever so slighty (smoothly also) or possibly twisting, untill it shifted and would sit down and start again as rpms got higher. this is the best way i know how to explain it.
the car still drives wonderfully and if i didnt already have a feel for the car i doubt i would be able to notice it .
this was my second time at the track after installing the 175mmm crank pulley. the first time i felt nothing.
SO, this gives me the perfect excuse to pull the transmission- change the seals, filter, transmission mounts & ENGINE mounts while i'm at it.
And since i dont plan on pulling the transmission again for a good amount of time, i will go ahead and order the 3000 rpm stall converter.
having my tranny out, what, if any other things should i look at knocking out at the same time?
Thank you for the help in advance, i'm on days off so i'm ready to get something done. while the car is on ramps i'm going to pull the rear tires off and take them to the tire shop for some new 305/35/19s also.
Thanks
Kenny
07-19-2016, 02:17 PM
#3
tackle the rear main seal while you're there. Apparently the sealant must sit overnight to cure, ive heard people being okay with letting it sit 6 hours, i guess the longer the better
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kgoff6 (07-19-2016)
07-19-2016, 02:35 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Luxury4play;6863486]tackle the rear main seal while you're there. Apparently the sealant must sit overnight to cure, ive heard people being okay with letting it sit 6 hours, i guess .
I'll make sure to replace it! Got all the skid plates off I'm just checking everything out now.
It's kind of an intimidating task to start but I know it'll get done.
I am wondering if it will make it easier or if it îs necessary to disconnect the exhaust.
I really don't know where to start lol
Kenny
I'll make sure to replace it! Got all the skid plates off I'm just checking everything out now.
It's kind of an intimidating task to start but I know it'll get done.
I am wondering if it will make it easier or if it îs necessary to disconnect the exhaust.
I really don't know where to start lol
Kenny
07-20-2016, 04:14 AM
#5
[QUOTE=kgoff6;6863513]
You really should invest in a WIS system. U can buy as subscription with Mercedes and download all u need or u can buy a cd to download on ur pc off fleabay.
Wis will make ur life much easier and dare I say it is almost necessary for these types of jobs. Gives you any special procedures, detailed exact steps, and gives you exact torque values.
Good luck with the project.
tackle the rear main seal while you're there. Apparently the sealant must sit overnight to cure, ive heard people being okay with letting it sit 6 hours, i guess .
I'll make sure to replace it! Got all the skid plates off I'm just checking everything out now.
It's kind of an intimidating task to start but I know it'll get done.
I am wondering if it will make it easier or if it îs necessary to disconnect the exhaust.
I really don't know where to start lol
Kenny
I'll make sure to replace it! Got all the skid plates off I'm just checking everything out now.
It's kind of an intimidating task to start but I know it'll get done.
I am wondering if it will make it easier or if it îs necessary to disconnect the exhaust.
I really don't know where to start lol
Kenny
Wis will make ur life much easier and dare I say it is almost necessary for these types of jobs. Gives you any special procedures, detailed exact steps, and gives you exact torque values.
Good luck with the project.
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kgoff6 (07-31-2016)
07-31-2016, 12:53 PM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
I was able to get the transmission down fairly easily without wis. I downloaded the 16 gig file and tried to install and decided I would probably have a better chance getting the tranny out by myself than getting the program to work. Lol
Got everything disconnected by myself then had a friend come over once it was loose and we had it down in 15 minutes.
I think I can honestly say this car is easier that a 90s chevy to get the tranny out of lol
Don't be too intimidated by this job! Well worth the effort to install a 3000 stall converter and everything else for only the price of parts!
Does anyone know if my torque converter should've come out worth the tran? Or does it just depend on how it is pulled? I just haven't been back under the car to pull the converter yet.
Thanks,
Kenny
Got everything disconnected by myself then had a friend come over once it was loose and we had it down in 15 minutes.
I think I can honestly say this car is easier that a 90s chevy to get the tranny out of lol
Don't be too intimidated by this job! Well worth the effort to install a 3000 stall converter and everything else for only the price of parts!
Does anyone know if my torque converter should've come out worth the tran? Or does it just depend on how it is pulled? I just haven't been back under the car to pull the converter yet.
Thanks,
Kenny
07-31-2016, 04:46 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Nothing holds the TC to the tranny. Its sandwiched against the engine. Its better to remove the TC with the the tranny, otherwise the oil goes everywhere. Hold the TQ with a rope. Otherwise no harm done.
To understand and rebuild the tranny, it is strongly recommended - no - COMPULSORY to buy the ATSG MB 722.6 manual.
Rebuilding the tranny is easier than you might think . Once you remove the valve block and undo the bell housing, you can lift the housing and dismantle it down to the six clutch and brake assemblies in a minute.
The difficult bit is compressing the clutch return springs to release and engage the retaining rings. Fitting the rear clutch is tricky because you need to align the oil ways. The manual spells it out. Otherwise its straightforward.
Nick
To understand and rebuild the tranny, it is strongly recommended - no - COMPULSORY to buy the ATSG MB 722.6 manual.
Rebuilding the tranny is easier than you might think . Once you remove the valve block and undo the bell housing, you can lift the housing and dismantle it down to the six clutch and brake assemblies in a minute.
The difficult bit is compressing the clutch return springs to release and engage the retaining rings. Fitting the rear clutch is tricky because you need to align the oil ways. The manual spells it out. Otherwise its straightforward.
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 08-10-2016 at 04:07 PM.
The following users liked this post:
kgoff6 (07-31-2016)
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07-31-2016, 08:03 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Nothing holds the TC to the tranny. Its sandwiched against the engine. Its better to remove the TC with the the tranny, otherwise the oil goes everywhere. Hold the TQ with a rope. Otherwise no harm done.
To understand and rebuild the tranny, it is strongly recommended - no - COMPULSORY to buy the ATSG MB 722.6 manual.
Rebuilding the tranny is easier than you might think . Once you remove the valve block and undo the bell housing, you can lift the housing and dismantle it down to the six clutch and brake assemblies in a minute.
The difficult bit is compressing the clutch return springs to release and engage the retaining rings. Fitting the rear clutch is tricky because you need to align the oil ways. The manual spells it out. Otherwise its straightforward.
Nick
To understand and rebuild the tranny, it is strongly recommended - no - COMPULSORY to buy the ATSG MB 722.6 manual.
Rebuilding the tranny is easier than you might think . Once you remove the valve block and undo the bell housing, you can lift the housing and dismantle it down to the six clutch and brake assemblies in a minute.
The difficult bit is compressing the clutch return springs to release and engage the retaining rings. Fitting the rear clutch is tricky because you need to align the oil ways. The manual spells it out. Otherwise its straightforward.
Nick
I don't plan on rebuilding yet, the car only has 72k on it, engine 40k replaced by MB dealership.
Just going to change filterms and fluid and add a speed riven pan while I'm at it.. hopefully an extra 2 quarts will help some.
Let me know if there is anything else to do while it's out..
Kenny
08-13-2016, 12:50 AM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
3000 stall works great!
While I had the tranny out i replaced engine mounts and Trans mount..
Before I drove the car i decided to tighten up the 13mm lower engine mount bolts, and I sheered off the driver side. With a 3/8 ratchet. Fml
So tomorrow I'm going to try an e-z-out and if that doesn't work I'll be buying more engine mounts this weekend.
Sucks getting everything back together and running into something stupid like that.
Kenny
While I had the tranny out i replaced engine mounts and Trans mount..
Before I drove the car i decided to tighten up the 13mm lower engine mount bolts, and I sheered off the driver side. With a 3/8 ratchet. Fml
So tomorrow I'm going to try an e-z-out and if that doesn't work I'll be buying more engine mounts this weekend.
Sucks getting everything back together and running into something stupid like that.
Kenny
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