TresX

98' CLK 320 90k miles.....I've been experiencing a rough idle for about a month along with some black exhaust from the muffler. I changed the spark plugs which eliminated the smoke and some of the idle but it still idled rough at lights. SO.....ordered some mounts yesterday, they came today (free shipping, impor***.com) and when I took out the old mounts, they were all shot. The rubber completely worn/torn on one side. So I replaced with new ones then replaced the rear (transmission) mount. End result, it really feels like a Mercedes again! Even in comparison to the occasions before I replacing the mounts where the car wasn't idling rough, it is TOTALLY different. With the engine on, radio off and a/c off, you can't even tell that the car is on! Not bad for a 7 year old car! Who knows how long ago they busted, but I figure I slowy adapted to the minor vibrations and didn't even realize the difference until it got too bad. Anyhow, thought I'd share this with you.

Total parts for the 3 mounts: $190
Labor: 4 hours (could probably do it in 2 the next time around)

pretty straight forward DIY. If you want instructions let me know!

x15jq

yea if you could post directions, havent had to do the mounts yet, but its nice to have guidelines before going to work. Thanks

TresX

Front mounts:


-Disconnect batter (VERY IMPORTANT, especially if you replace the right mount. You don't want to short your alternator)
-Place car on 4 jack stands as high as you can
-Unbolt bottom bolt of two front mounts.
-Unbolt 2 screw/bolts holding a shield that is blocking the view of the right mount.
-Move shield out of the way so you can manage your and through that area to access the top bolt of the right mount. (This part is a little tricky, but with a little patience and thought it's not a big deal)
-Unscrew top bolt on both right and left mount
-Remove both covers from both mounts.
-Lift engine about 3 inches
-Remove both mounts (The right mount should not be a problem but the left mount was a real PITA to get out. WIS tells you to dismantle the steering damper and to take the drag link off at the pitman arm to free up the space required, but that would require a special tool so I worked around it)
-Install new mounts in opposite order. Make sure to follow proper torque specifications for all bolts.

Rear Mount:

-Car still jacked up
-Support transmission with floor jack.
-Remove 6 bolts holding bracket (then set bracket aside)
-Remove 2 bolts holding mount
-Install new mount in opposite order.


-Lower car
-Open Beer

demigod

At idle my car is a lil shakey at times. It's a 2002 and I just bought it with 44k miles on it now. Is it still under factory warranty to fix the motor mounts? Thanks in advance.

Mike

blackbenzz

I was thinking of doing this on my car, now that you've said it makes a difference and costs so little I will definitely do this. I'm getting the fuel filter done today and I need rotors BAD. I am the highest bidder on some brembo front BBK, we'll see what happens.

slvrstar

check with any dealership to find out when the car was originally sold. and calculate 4 years from that. it's not always the mileage. I have a '02 with 24K miles on it. the warranty has expired since i purchased it originally in august '01.

str8ridin

Great write-up! We need to start a FAQ and DIY sticky thread with info like this. Any takers?

blackbenzz

I agree

str8ridin

I'll put somthing togehter...

TresX

Excellent idea....

JMA

I have a 2001 430 and also had the motor mounts replaced under extended warranty a couple of months ago and agree that the car is smooth as butter once again. I complained about an exhaust rattle and they cleaned out the exaust tips and changed motor mounts and the car feels brand-new again with no rattle either. Car has 80K on the clock and it had been rattling (and shaking) for about 1 year before I complained about it. Maybe 4 years or 75K is where they start to go?

JMA

thongvilay

I know this is an thread, but are these motor and tranny mounts located in the same place as the 01 clk55 mounts?

hiccuphell

hi All,

Its time for my mounts to be replaced. I've searched the forums and found some useful info on how to DIY and plan to do it in a couple of weeks after sourcing parts.

@TresX, thanks for the DIY info

Ive read elsewhere that the W209 OEM mount fits on the W208 chasis and is superior in quality. Can anyone confirm this?

Where can I source after market mounts for my 2002 430?
I've found a few german mounts for 99/pair on ebay but just not sure as to quality vs OEM.
Or should I just ponnie up an buy w209 mounts from the dealer if they fit?

I plan to record pic/vid of my DIY and post it.
Wish me luck.

HH

thongvilay

I can't find anyone to give me a definitive answer to using the w209 mounts either, I will be using the eBay mounts because I don't plan on keeping the clk 55, I will be doing it this coming week and try to document what I can of the job. Pep Boys gave me a printed out price quote for 250 dollars for the labor though...which is really tempting!

mikekuriger

I just ordered mine today too. I'll post the results when I replace them!

newguy2008

Hey guys, so how did the three of your projects go? Videos and Pics? Or at least follow up comments?

Where did you end up buying them? How much? What does the Stealership charge for these? I also read about a 3rd mount - is that one for the Transmission (rear) and was that one necessary for you guys?

I had mine checked out yesterday and the engine moved about 4-6 inches when we reved the engine with the brakes pressed in Drive. It's so bad that it's leaving an impression on the foam hood piece.

newguy2008

Wow, I had the 2 Engine Mounts changed along with the tranny mount and what a difference!!!

The car had a rumble at and after start up like a really bad bumpy idle (it got worse over the past couple of months), but after changing these items, the car is almost silent when idling! I'm not kidding!

It feels like I got a complete tune up! lol.

Do this before a tune up.

mint

I know this is an old thread but didn't want to make a new one for a simple question; some people mentioned using 209 motor mounts instead of the 208 ones.

Would a 209 CLK55 motor mount work for my 208 V6 and add any additional benefit to said part longevity (as opposed to getting a 320 or 350 W209 mount)? Also, if you happen to have the part # handy that would be much appreciated. Just making sure before I purchase.

mint

Anyone?

MarcusF

The short answer is, not to my knowledge.

The W209 mounts are a direct fit, an allegedly a better design, and are part number 2202400617. They fit a CLK430, CLK500, CLK55, CLK63, CL600, CL55, C32, S600, S55, and SLK55. The CLK320 uses a different part number.

mint

Thanks Marcus -- I knew I should have just PM'd you outright.

So basically, my only option is the OEM 208 320 mounts?

MarcusF

I concentrated my research on the V8 mounts. I don’t know the V6 options, just that they use a different part MB number than the 8's.

bigwill

this is great. searching old threads always gets the answer. time for my motor mount to be replaced. i'll be getting the w209 ones since its slightly better. is the part number is for a pair? and would it be a good idea to do the 3rd mount (transmission) an what is the part number for that pls?

00Mercedes320

You have to get the transmission mount at the dealer. The only other place ive seen them is eBay or autohauzas.com. I've tried both, and they are cheap and you will hate it. Makes the car shake like crazy.

bigwill

actually, since i can use the w209 for my w208 (v8), can i use the w209 tranny mount too or do i need to order the one for a w208 (does it matter if its v6 or v8)?

never mind. power of the net, search for a while and found out that w208 and w209 use the same part # tranny mount.

going to order the engine mount from w209 for my w208.
w208 mount costs 78 bucks
w209 mount costs 93 bucks

for $15 more i think its worth whatever benefit it offers